Removing turbo and manifold?

Cordzboy · Post by **Cordzboy** » Mon Apr 12, 2004 10:38 pm

Hey guys,

I'm attempting to remove the turbo and exh. manifold tomorrow to track down a really loud exhaust leak, and get the manifold machined flat again.

Does anyone have any tips on how best to do this, or any little things to watch out for? I was thinking to just pull the turbo and manifold out together, then split it afterwards.

Appreciate your help,

Adrian

tmz_99 · Post by **tmz_99** » Mon Apr 12, 2004 10:50 pm

yup.. prob the easiest way.. just undo all the bolts and lift.. turbo may be in the way for you when ur removing the exhaust manifold off the block, if it is, take it out seperately.. not much to it.. Id say set apart 2 hrs max if this is ur 1st time..

Cordzboy · Post by **Cordzboy** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 3:57 pm

Ok, it's all out in about an hour or so.

But, now I have more questions:
Should any oil have drained out of the turbo? Cos none did, just making sure...
Do I need to replace the gasket on the bottom oil return line where it bolts to the turbo?
Should I put exhaust manifold cement on the thin steel gasket from turbo to manifold?
Lastly, should the wastegate flap be held down firmly? it feels kinda loose, which might be why it's taking a while to boost.

Thanks for the help,
Adrian

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 4:04 pm

Cordzboy wrote:Ok, it's all out in about an hour or so.

But, now I have more questions:
Should any oil have drained out of the turbo? Cos none did, just making sure...

Turbo oil is pressure fed and drains out by gravity.. so it would have all drained out by by the time you had it removed.

Do I need to replace the gasket on the bottom oil return line where it bolts to the turbo?

Probably a good idea. Although, in the past I have re-used if it looked OK with no problems.

Should I put exhaust manifold cement on the thin steel gasket from turbo to manifold?

No.

Lastly, should the wastegate flap be held down firmly? it feels kinda loose, which might be why it's taking a while to boost.

Yes is should seal fairly firm.. any wastegate leak will cause boost to come on slowly.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:32 pm

Cordzboy wrote:
Should I put exhaust manifold cement on the thin steel gasket from turbo to manifold?
No.

Not disagreeing with you, but whats the reason for not using exhaust sealant here? Ive used it in the past, wondering if it has any detrimental effects?

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 7:29 pm

It's not required. If the exhaust manifold is flat and the turbo flange is flat then the metal gasket provides a good seal.

Plus I dare say an exhaust sealant would melt on a turbo car.

Cordzboy · Post by **Cordzboy** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 8:05 pm

Thanks for the help cookie.

I haven't got another oil gasket thing, but this one looks ok still - I'll go with it and keep an eye on it.

The manifold and turbo were sealing, just checking if I needed to put stuff on it - I guess not. In that case, I'm guessing to not use anything on the turbo to dump pipe join either?

Looked at the wastegate again - it's definitely not sealing firmly, which explains why the car has always boosted slowly.
Is there an easy way to fix this? Or is it time for a new turbo?

Thanks again,
Adrian

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 8:11 pm

Cordzboy wrote:The manifold and turbo were sealing, just checking if I needed to put stuff on it - I guess not. In that case, I'm guessing to not use anything on the turbo to dump pipe join either?

Thats correct.

Looked at the wastegate again - it's definitely not sealing firmly, which explains why the car has always boosted slowly.
Is there an easy way to fix this? Or is it time for a new turbo?

Is the wastegate flap a bit floppy?.. is this the reason it's not sealing? If so then you could simply get the wastegate flap re-newed. A complete turbo rebuild would not be needed.

Or has the wastegate actuator (the gold canister) got no tension on it? Replace the actuator if this is the case.

scum · Post by **scum** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 8:43 pm

cordia wastegates have and adjustment on the end of the arm, try playing with that, BUT if you wind it up too far you might get too much boost. do u have a gauge?

i know someone who put sealant on the manifold gasket, it squiged out into the inside, set hard as a rock, broke off and was eaten by the turbo :(

odd, my TD-05 wastegate was to the side of the seat, i had to tap the rod that runs through the cast iron with a hammer till the flap was inline for the seat.... weird :?

Cordzboy · Post by **Cordzboy** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 8:54 pm

The car in question is a JA starion, not my cordia.

Yep, the wastegate flap is a bit floppy. Can I renew it myself, or do I need to take it to someone to get it done? The turbo seems to be in OK nick, with the *tiniest* amount of shaft play - you can barely feel it.

The actuator has tension on the flap, and pushing it further closed via the rod doesn't seem to help.

Once again, appreciate the help guys. This forum rocks.

Adrian

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:18 pm

I've never taken apart a wastegate flap. But I would assume that it would be something a turbo place would have to do for you.

I would just take the turbo to a reputable turbo shop, get them to check it out for you and ask them for a firm quote to fix it.

scum · Post by **scum** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:34 pm

when you say "floppy" is this when open? u mean the round bit wiggles around? but when closed all looks good? if so, from what i have seen, this is normal

Austarion

Removing turbo and manifold?

Removing turbo and manifold?

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