MPI
MPI
If i run an MPI manifold with evo injectors and airflow meter can i use the evo loom and ecu (or VR4 for that matter)????
What else would i need to run it?? Coil packs etc etc.....
on a 12 valve DASH motor
Thanks
What else would i need to run it?? Coil packs etc etc.....
on a 12 valve DASH motor
Thanks
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- Woodwide
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- Woodwide
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- Starion VR4
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- Starion VR4
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- racking my brains
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ems stinger, haltech E6X. the wolf 3Dver 4 isnt available anymore..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
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Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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- Dorifto!
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ecu
Haltech E6X is a fantastic aftermarket ecu for mpi setup at a starion engine .I have been using it for almost 5 years and it woks perfect .and also it is still available.
I can't see why you couldn't do it, but it may not be practical.
The biggest hurdle would be adapting the CAS to work with the SOHC head.
Then as the volumetric efficiencies are different you would probably need to get a tune, although you may be lucky. This can be done using Ecutec software to modify the stock evo settings. Unfortunately this is the stage that upsets the show as I think it is a relatively expensive excersise - ie. you can probably get a full aftermarket ECU for similar $$ and save a swag of headaches.
That said, if you are a DIYer and can get the stuff for free, what have you got to lose other than time? Remember that you will need to swap everything over including all sensors, t/b, AFM, FPR to name a few.
I personally wouldn't bother, but good luck if you decide to proceed.
The biggest hurdle would be adapting the CAS to work with the SOHC head.
Then as the volumetric efficiencies are different you would probably need to get a tune, although you may be lucky. This can be done using Ecutec software to modify the stock evo settings. Unfortunately this is the stage that upsets the show as I think it is a relatively expensive excersise - ie. you can probably get a full aftermarket ECU for similar $$ and save a swag of headaches.
That said, if you are a DIYer and can get the stuff for free, what have you got to lose other than time? Remember that you will need to swap everything over including all sensors, t/b, AFM, FPR to name a few.
I personally wouldn't bother, but good luck if you decide to proceed.
4G63 - 87kg
4G54 - 107kg
4G54 - 107kg
It is do'able, but you would need to be competant and/or have some help.
1. You will need the trigger disk from the evo/vr4 and install it in a suitable dizzy, L300 for example, and correctly wire it into the evo loom.
Pull-up resistors may be required on the 2 signal wires to +5V (1K ohm).
2. You will need to have a new inlet manifold fabricated, or some surgery where the dash manifold is mated to the evo manifold. There was a pix/link posted recently where one of our friends from Japan multipointed a dash inlet manifold. Have a look at that, and get a pix of WANTSOMS manifold for ideas on whats possible. This is required to get multipoint, and to get rid of the chronically bad std manifold design.
3. You will need to get the evo/vr4 ecu re-programmed and tuned.
This can be done, Chris Meek at MEEK PERFORMANCE in Sydney does this, so i suppose there must be someone in NZ that can as well.
Finally, the dash head idle poorly with both inlet valves working, when using the std dash manifold. But, It will idle ok when a decent manifold is used, refer questions on this to WANTSOM. Jaycar sell some nice car kits, one of which could be used as an rpm based valve trigger to drive the oil solenoid.
If you keep the std inlet manifold you will struggle to get much past 130rwkw, but a good manifold will allow you to get to the 200rwkw playground (with a bunch of boost though).
1. You will need the trigger disk from the evo/vr4 and install it in a suitable dizzy, L300 for example, and correctly wire it into the evo loom.
Pull-up resistors may be required on the 2 signal wires to +5V (1K ohm).
2. You will need to have a new inlet manifold fabricated, or some surgery where the dash manifold is mated to the evo manifold. There was a pix/link posted recently where one of our friends from Japan multipointed a dash inlet manifold. Have a look at that, and get a pix of WANTSOMS manifold for ideas on whats possible. This is required to get multipoint, and to get rid of the chronically bad std manifold design.
3. You will need to get the evo/vr4 ecu re-programmed and tuned.
This can be done, Chris Meek at MEEK PERFORMANCE in Sydney does this, so i suppose there must be someone in NZ that can as well.
Finally, the dash head idle poorly with both inlet valves working, when using the std dash manifold. But, It will idle ok when a decent manifold is used, refer questions on this to WANTSOM. Jaycar sell some nice car kits, one of which could be used as an rpm based valve trigger to drive the oil solenoid.
If you keep the std inlet manifold you will struggle to get much past 130rwkw, but a good manifold will allow you to get to the 200rwkw playground (with a bunch of boost though).
Yeah I got a mate working on a MPI manifold for me at the moment, He built his own one for his 200+kw 4AGTE and he had heaps of piping and what not left over. :D
Also looking at custom turbo manifold for the TD05 just for bling and cause the same mate can build one of those for me as well....
Then looking at an aftermarket intercooler and some custom piping and 2.5" mandrel bend exhaust, some evo injectors....
Then the custom ECU and loom.....
Bought myself another shitter to run around in, so will be able to side line the starion till i complete all of the above
Also looking at custom turbo manifold for the TD05 just for bling and cause the same mate can build one of those for me as well....
Then looking at an aftermarket intercooler and some custom piping and 2.5" mandrel bend exhaust, some evo injectors....
Then the custom ECU and loom.....
Bought myself another shitter to run around in, so will be able to side line the starion till i complete all of the above
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