Starting simple

Zychion · Post by **Zychion** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 11:43 am

Hey guys,
Now I'm gonna tell you that I'm not new to cars, as I have been watching motorsport for years, am very fond of supercars and in the last 4 years can now pick most car models by looking at them on the street (I know this isn't anything special, but I used to not think much of Auto's)
Where I get lost is the mechanical side, but I want to remedy that and to start with the basics I'm going to change my brake pads myself. All I need to know is what do I need to buy to do it. I have a bit of a garage, all of my dads tools but where do I buy the pads and what do I ask for. I know it's simple, but I have to start somewhere.
Flav if you see this, you'll be able to tell me pretty quick, but I want to do this before I get it serviced.
Thanks peops...

Barney · Post by **Barney** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:35 pm

Zychion wrote:Hey guys,
Now I'm gonna tell you that I'm not new to cars, as I have been watching motorsport for years, am very fond of supercars and in the last 4 years can now pick most car models by looking at them on the street (I know this isn't anything special, but I used to not think much of Auto's)
Where I get lost is the mechanical side, but I want to remedy that and to start with the basics I'm going to change my brake pads myself. All I need to know is what do I need to buy to do it. I have a bit of a garage, all of my dads tools but where do I buy the pads and what do I ask for. I know it's simple, but I have to start somewhere.
Flav if you see this, you'll be able to tell me pretty quick, but I want to do this before I get it serviced.
Thanks peops...

Brakes may not be a good place to start your mechanical career!

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 1:08 pm

Zychion wrote:where do I buy the pads

From an auto shop (Repco, Supercheap, Autobahn, Auto Pro)

and what do I ask for.

Ummm.. Pads I guess.

Front brake pads for a Starion to be more specific.

Bendix are a common brand - part number DB291.

Zychion · Post by **Zychion** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 2:28 pm

Is there a real reason why I should try to change my brake pads?? And will I not have to change my rears? Is that like handbrake only?

Starion_Turbo · Post by **Starion_Turbo** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:09 pm

Hi

While i'm not exactly sure of the brake balance of a starion both the front and rear disks clamp from the foot brake at about a 60/40 ratio, 60% braking force on front calipers and 40% rear, the rears also are attached to the hand brake, all 4 are best changed in my opinion however the front pads take more wear then the rears but if switching to another brand of pad I reacon change all of them to achieve equal brake balance..

There not the easiest buggers to change and theres no real point in changing them if they dont need it.

I'd suggest inspecting them first to obtain their status, to do this simply remove the wheel and check how much "meat" is left on the pads via a visual inspection. this means having a look with a torch or worklight at how much brake pad material is actually on the pad look between the caliper and the disk.
You get about 10mm on a new pad so if your down to say 2-3mm it'd be worth doing.

The tricky part with changing brakes aside from removing and reinstalling calipers is resetting the piston and then having to bleed the system depending on whats been done. Granted I havn't changed my pads in 4- 5 years i'm afraid I cant remember the starion setup 2 well but I just did magna disks and pads a month ago and no bleeding was required.

Dallas

Zychion · Post by **Zychion** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:25 pm

Thank you very much. Putting all 3 replies together I think I have all the information that I need. 1.Be warned it's difficult, 2.Part numbers and brands and 3.The realisation of it all as it's not like my lego anymore.

Thanks much :D

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:33 pm

Just check the pads before changing them. No point in changing if there is plenty of meat left on them.

The rears take a long time to wear down.

Junkers · Post by **Junkers** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:42 pm

I'm not 100% sure on the front brake pistons but I know the rears aren't like most common pistons, you can just take off the bleed nipple and push them back in.
You need to turn them clockwise and they will wind back in. Becareful not to get any dirt in the rubber sleve sitting around the piston, good idea to chuck some break cleaner on it (you can buy this from any known autostore).

Don't get any brake fluid on your pads or rotors (becareful when taking the nipple off) as this contaminates them and are basically stuffs them.

If your rotors having alot of scratches/deep grooves on them you may want to look into getting them resurfaced as damaged rotors won't do you any good.

Don't be put off by all of this, it's alot easier than you think.

rallidave · Post by **rallidave** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:11 pm

just remember, as barney said, brakes are important, they save your life, triple check everything youve done :o

insane_clown · Post by **insane_clown** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:28 pm

I agree with barney. Brakes are the most imporant thing on your car.
Find someone you don't like and do thier brakes :P

chunkhead · Post by **chunkhead** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 1:36 am

Sorry guys, I have to disagree! Why are brake pads hard to change? I can change a set of fronts in under 10mins, thats both sides! :?

Zychion, they are not hard to change! You'll need pads, just ask at Autobarn or the likes, giving them the model of your car! You'll need a socket set or spanner set, a G-clamp and a rag!

I'm going to assume you know the basic, ie Jacking the car up, wheel removal, etc.

Remove the wheel, the caliper will be held on with a bolt or two (can't remember the starion setup) at the top and bottom, they will be on the back of the caliper. Once you remove bolts the caliper should just slide of. Note how the pads go onto the disc, replace with fresh ones, leave caliper off. Open your bonnet, remove the cap for the brake fluid reservoir, wrap the rag around it to prevent spillage. In the center of the caliper is a round pipe, this is the piston. Use the G-clamp to compress the piston back into caliper. Once it's in you can remove the clamp and it should stay in for about 15 mins! You'll notice at this point that the reservoir has overflowed or close to, hence the rag! Re-attach caliper and tighten bolts. Get into the drivers seat and pump the brake pedal, it will be dead, but keep pumping till it goes hard again. You have now re-compressed the piston. Replace wheel and repeat on other side!

Check your brake fluid reservoir and top up accordingly, replace cap, close bonnet! You have now changed your brakes! Take the car for a spin around your block, accelerating slowly to 50kms, then mildly braking to a complete stop. Repeat this 5-6 times. It will take about 200kms to completly set the brakes in, in this time heavy braking is discouraged!

rallidave · Post by **rallidave** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 10:14 pm

true chunky, pads arent hard to change but...
remember correct bleeding of the brakes is crucial, along with caliper seals etc,, its not brain surgery but its not lego either...

hows this, when i was at repco some guy come in and asked for a repair seal kit for his brake master cyl, i sold it to him and he then opened his bonnet, opened the master cyl resivoir cap and tipped the rubber seals and clips etc straight in!!!!

SIR GSR · Post by **SIR GSR** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 10:23 pm

At least he got his moneys worth Dave LOL

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm

dave tell me you're fuckin kidding rofl

rallidave · Post by **rallidave** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:40 pm

nope not kidding,
another classic was some bloke needing a sump plug, doesnt know what size it is, so he takes it off the car (in the carpark!!) oil pissin out everywhere, boss was fumin '"now ive seen everything!!??"

Austarion

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