Should i put a 20B in the starion???

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toysrus
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Post by toysrus »

Are you sure the VR4 Engine you got in it isn't just a bit tired....like in need of a rebuild ?

You can push 200Kw atw from a VR4 Engine with a B16G Turbo without too many problems.....the question I should be asking is how much power is it getting to the ground at the moment ?
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Post by flav »

oooh...ummmm.....mabey a few problems!
Unless we build it!
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AB
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Post by AB »

mitch wrote:faster with auto
Wait, what? Arn't they alot less efficient than a manual, what with power transferred via a fluid and what not? Or is there something I'm missing here?
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scum
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Post by scum »

AB wrote:is there something I'm missing here?
nope, auto's are not just slower, there slower than slow. like, really slow. slow like a very slow thing that dosent go fast. there so slow when you go down a hill the car can roll faster than the gearbox can keep up, so it rips out and ends up on the road, where it gets in the way of your grandma in her excel. if you leave an auto on the floor and come out the next day it will have moved backwards. so to sum up, sloooowwwwww...... then there is the slow gear change, and the weight, and the fact there just crap when it comes to going around a corner. and then they kill the responsive feel of a car. and there slow.

my 2 cents. (are faster than an auto)
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mitch
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Post by mitch »

Nothing wrong with the engine, it has around 200rwk on a conservative
tune as the injectors are at 99% duty cycle.
This is with a Garrett GT30.

I figure it would cost a shitload for new: injectors, coils, cams, cam gears, forged pistons, rods, etc then what about the gearbox crying enough.

I only drive it once a week so i dont mind it being off the road again, after all it IS a starion, its not like im not used to it.
Has anyone driven a 20B cosmo?

Why do i get the feeling everyone thinks im crazy?
toysrus
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Post by toysrus »

20B is nice but its going to cost you atleast another $5-6K right for a stock engine fitted ?

Spend the 5K on the VR4 :beer

I think what your after is more low-down torque correct ? For that you have to stroke the 4G63 to 2.3L with the 4G64 Crankshaft. Cost involved is the crank and custom Forged Pistons $500US landed or about $900 from CP here in Australia. You will need camshafts also, HKS copied billets are about $900AU which then allows you to fit a bigger Turbo, or just High-flow the compressor side ? If the A/R on the Exhuast side is already about 0.8 etc.....

The stock rods are good for 500Hp with ARP Rod bolts :beer If going aftermarket, I would only really go with Argo, Crower, Carillo, Pauter or Oliver :beer
Computer games don't affect kids I mean if PacMan affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and listening to repetitive electronic music :D
toysrus
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Post by toysrus »

Also, tricked 2 or 3 speed Powerglide/Jatco Auto boxes are very very heavy-duty (1000+ HP capable with little mods), cheaper (due to so much development from the US & here on them) and faster down the 1/4 mile then any manual box can be :wink:

On the circuit, they're obviously slower.....
Computer games don't affect kids I mean if PacMan affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and listening to repetitive electronic music :D
mitch
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Post by mitch »

Thaanks mate.
I can pickup a cosmo front cut for $3500
Rather than build a stroker id sell the setup in my car and build a 2.6 if i dont go the rotary route.
How much do you think a decent box would cost, doing the work myself?
I have a jap 5 speed that i kept bending the input shaft and smashing gears so i put starion internals in it and its fine now but would struggle with much more torque.
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Starion VR4
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engine

Post by Starion VR4 »

Just get a 2.4L bottom out of a L-300 starwagon, or Van, forged pistons $900-1100, Eagle rods, new $700-900, or i have a2nd hand set ready to go for $400. Put 1mm bigger valves $250, in yr head, port it $150-300, Cams some 280deg units from CROW Cams $500-650, Cam gears$300 some1 to assenble it, I can do the whole job for U, but not untill i get back. turbo GT30R ish or To4E. I am looking at a L-300 4SP auto out of a Starwagon for my 1/4 mile stuff, should be able to get it to last. :beer
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crshbndct
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Re: engine

Post by crshbndct »

Starion VR4 wrote:Just get a 2.4L bottom out of a L-300 starwagon, or Van, forged pistons $900-1100, Eagle rods, new $700-900, or i have a2nd hand set ready to go for $400. Put 1mm bigger valves $250, in yr head, port it $150-300, Cams some 280deg units from CROW Cams $500-650, Cam gears$300 some1 to assenble it, I can do the whole job for U, but not untill i get back. turbo GT30R ish or To4E. I am looking at a L-300 4SP auto out of a Starwagon for my 1/4 mile stuff, should be able to get it to last. :beer
you could have my staz auto for free if you want

and if you werent in aussie :P
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Post by mitch »

What would the box cost all up? What sort of power would that combo make?
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Starion VR4
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power

Post by Starion VR4 »

Box should modified should cost maybe$500-700ish converter$150. APC use what I listed in their EVOIII, after 1st DYNO session made 520HP. that enough? :beer
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Post by mitch »

would cost a lot of money in new undies all the time then.
How much do you reckon the long motor would cost once together
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Post by MrBishi »

If I was to put a non-mitsu donk into a staz it would probably be a 20B. I think you may end up spending more than you budgeted for though.
4G63 - 87kg
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mitch
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Post by mitch »

any ideas what a decent dohc would cost and would it be better to use a 2 or 2.4 block
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