$5 thermostat relocation

[JAS]

Heres some pics.

http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/33thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/34thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/35thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/36thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/37thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/38thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/39thermostate.jpg
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/31egine.jpg

Yeah so, The pipe cost me $5 :) and I made the flange plates (x2) out of something I had laying around. I did have to remove 1 of the studs out of the back of the head and replace it with a bolt, But other than that it was easly.
Im going to run a hose from the bottom outlet on the thermostat housing to the heater and then from the heater back to the pipe that goes to the water pump, so that the water will circulate. And Ive replaced the VR4 thermostat outlet with the starion outlet.
Ive moved the motor and gear box forward about 10mm. Theres about 3mm clearence between the CAS and the fire wall and heeps of clearence for the thermostat adptor. I can almost get the adptoer on and off the back of the head with out moving the motor. To easy :D

Any thoughts or questions?

[isnowi]

looks good mate, only thing i would say is that make sure you have a good join on the steel pipe to the rubber hose, like a flare or something, i had a similar setup with a flared alloy pipe, and the bastard hose blew off at 4000rpm. Not a clever moment that.... What water pump are you using, fwd or rwd? i used a rwd one with a little bit of machining around the cambelt tensioner, that way i was able to use the std bottom hose and keep it well clear of the exhaust manifold.

cheers Dan

[JAS]

Yeah mate.
I put a big weld around the end of the pipe. Its hard to get the pipe on and once the clamps on and tight its there to stay :beer

You can see it in this pic
http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/35thermostate.jpg

Im going to use the RWD water pump as I to want to use the starion bottom radator hose. Plus its got the fitting for return pipe from the heater :)
Exhaust manifolds and radator hoses dont mix.

[Junkers]

Making good use of that welder :)

[isnowi]

Good-o looks pretty tidy, mines in an ex lancer, had to put a box in the firewall to fit everything. what gearbox are you running?

cheers Dan

[JAS]

Im using the starion wide block and starion gearbox.
Ive been trying to find a 4G64 block, but haven't yet. So I think Ill stick with the starion block.

[DJpowerHaus]

Very nice! Come share that stuff on my message board: www.projectzerog.com . Its amazing how similarly you've solved some of these problems. One thing I did alter slightly was to lower the pipe to run under the intake for easy and mess free removal of the intake manifold and I didnt want that waterpipe running right next to where I plan on running my wiring. Have you considered all this?

[JAS]

Yeah I did think about running the water pipe under the manifold but I would then have to put a bleeder at the back of the head. As it is, the pipe has a nice gradual rise to the thermostat housing. Im planing on running the wiring under the manifold to keep everthing nice and hidden. Removing the manifold is still just as easy as the factory starion one. Just remove the front radator hose and the back radator hose, the water pipe, thermostat housing and manifold comes off together. :D
Jason

[airbats801]

awesome build man. have a 4g64 on the way myself :). One project at a time though :D

[DJpowerHaus]

Or pull the manifold with no mess :-D. I can use my temp sensor as my bleeder too. I have it taped into a piece of aluminum welded onto my water pipe.

[evoJB]

i'm have the pipe extended under the inlet manifold, no thermostat, using an electric water pump.
will moving the engine foreward affect the cars balance.