ECU pin descriptions ??

[SpidersWeb]

My boost cut:

Up hill accelerating in 5th gear at 120KPH, *bang* car loses power for 1 second, then BOOM back on the gas, then repeats itself.

[decoy]

yeh fuel cut

what be this file: Starion.zip 117M ?

[Cookiemonster]

From the turboclub website re. Starion:

The computer control software on most vehicles can adequately cope with increased fuel to compensate for the extra air volume of a few PSI. Some computers have a fuel cut off PSI level just below 1 BAR (14.7 PSI @ sea level) that will turn off the fuel injectors which can come as a bit of a shock at the time, so care is in order.

From TEP website re. Starion:

the first thing you should do is have the ECU upgraded to eliminate the boost fuel cut

From Australia Turboclub Register:

If the boost sensing hose to the canister is leaking, boost will go too high and detonation or fuel cut-out will occur. ( in Mits. STARIONS & CORDIAS anyway, others may be similar.)

[SpidersWeb]

Starion.zip = Mitsubishi Starion/Conquest 1982-1988 Manual

Just JPEG scans of each page of the english manual.

So you're saying Starion boost cut is caused by injector duty cycle? I've been told by a few people it was based on air pressure sense from near the airbox. Remove pipe and boost cut disappears as they had done this on their cars.

I will carefully remove one pipe at a time and very carefully test to see how the car reacts. Obviously being careful that I don't overspin the TC05 in the event of finding the actuator line (which I need to find, cover it in water, run engine, try and find a hole).

Disengaging boost cut is not really of interest to me, 12psi is enough for the TC05, but I do need that actuator fixed. Hopefully it is just the pipe as those comments suggest. This would make sense as the car does make a small whistle noise on boost. Pretty logical really.

[David]

Hi,

The fuel cut on the JA as far as I was able to determine wasn't a planned thing. I was reverse engineering the JA ECU some years ago, and put a late JA ECU on the test bench and simulated some conditions.

You can still find the results at http://blackice.com.au/starion/

Now I will qualify this. I didn't test all conditions, nor did I specifically try to test for fuel cut... However I did notice it occur, and tried to find when the original JA ECU would give out. Here's what I discovered.

When the RPM, MAP and other snesors contribute to a fuelling level such that the injector cycle increases to 50%, the fuel injectors will stop injecting... Why? Because the 8251 CTC chip (same as you find in an IBM PC clone) is used for the injectors. Two timers are used. As one finishes firing, it triggers the second to prepare to fire. As soon as you exceed 50% duty cycle, then you get to the point where that trigger disappears, and so the fuel cycle stops. Simple eh? When things drop to a more
normal level, the CTC is reset and starts to work again.

This fuel cut is scary... You will find out all about it if you are driving along
without a wastegate working.

The next thing you know, the engine just goes dead... And all you hear is
the quiet of the wheels on aphsalt. Your first though is "Oh Fuck..."

Simple eh? Nothing to do with a pre-set boost level etc.

So how do you stop it? Well, you can trick the boost sensor output and up the fuel pressure. But that's not smart.

The injectors will work with linear increase up to 80%, without problems, according to Ron, who tests injectors for Ralliart.

That means that if you put in aftermarket fuel control, you can get up to
60% more fuel into your engine!. That's probably worth about 50HP at
the wheels, at the top end if you have sufficient boost and RPM to burn
that much extra fuel, and improve on the fueling.

Huge eh? And without any other mods... Just a new ECU.

OK, well, that's about it. Your best move? Get a Motec, Haltech or Wolf.

Back to the subject...

ECU pinouts. looking at ecu from the outside

|
|
|+-------\
||B13 B6|
||B12 B5|
||B11 B4|
||B10 ---
U ||B9 B3|
n ||B8 B2|
d ||B7 B1|
e |+-------/
r |
s |
i |
d |+-------\
e ||A17 A8|
||A16 A7|
||A15 A6|
||A14 A5|
||A13 ---
||A12 A4|
||A11 A3|
||A10 A2|
||A9 A1|
|+-------/
|
|


Determined pin function on JA Starion ECU.

A1 - Throttle position sensor.
A2 - Power supply for sensors (5v DC)
A3 - Coolant Temperature Sensor
A4 - Intake air temperature sensor
- KEYWAY
A5 - Idle
A6 - Oxygen Sensor Output (Not connected on my ECU - circuit unpopulated)
A7 - Air flow sensor output
A8 - Ignition Coil (-)

A9 - Ground for sensors
A10- Variable Resistor Output (fuel mix???)
A11- NC Extra Ground.
A12- NC (Wired???) NC...
A13- Ignition Switch (ST)
A14- ISC Servo Position Switch (Not Connected)
A15- Vehicle speed sensor (Km p h) (Not Connected)
A16- Self Diagnosis output (Grounded.)
A17- Pressure Sensor Output

B1 - Power Source from Control Relay (12v DC)
B2 - Ground
B3 - Ground
- KEYWAY
B4 - NC
B5 - Fuel pump relay in Control Relay Transistor Drive (under HS)
B6 - ISC Servo (extension signal) (Not Connected)

B7 - Power source from control relay (12v DC)
B8 - Pressure Exchange Solenoid Valve (Attached to ground)
B9 - Injector No 1.
B10- Injector No 2.
B11- ISC Servo (retract signal) (Not connected)
B12- Air conditioner relay (NC - unpopulated)
B13- Power supply for Battery Backup (Not Connected)


OK. And for the speed sensor? I think most JA's don't have them...
Just find out from someone with an import how it comes from
the odometer, and wire one up to the physical odometer, or more likely
just buy the inline version from Marlows, which goes between the cable
and the gearbox... About $50. It might be right without modification.
I don't know so it's at your own risk.

Hope this helps :)

Regards
David

[TD05]

i think fuel cut stands for 'fuel cut' if it was spark cut you'd still have fuel spray, then when spark was restored bang!!!!!!!!!

[Powerslave]

Thanks david , that has answered my question. I ended up dismantling the digital dash to find the speed pulse. On the coupling for the speedo cable is a detector wheel with an optical sensor. On this sensor pwb is 3 wires. The green wire is the 12v pulse output from the pwb , so I tapped that to the velnas and it seems to be working. I have the injector pulse hooked up to b10 , so that should work too , I will test drive the car tomorrow.
I also have an anologue dash , so i'll investigate to see if it has the same speed sense pwb , it might come in handy for anyone that might want to put cruise control in their staz (I will be soon !!!)

Thanks again everybody. :beer