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hcca · Post by **hcca** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 5:55 pm

I reckon you may be able to get the glue apart with a fine blade or piano wire. And a lot of patience.

Patience is not my forte :) I'm not keen to drill it either as I don't have a replacement hatch. However, i'd also prefer not to have a spoiler that can only be removed with an extreme amount of work... problem really.[/quote]

pcuser51 · Post by **pcuser51** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 9:04 pm

:D Well guys i have got your answer for you in the form of TOOGLE BOLTS you buy them at hard ware stores. drill 12mm holes through
the top fiberglass where your brackets go(beging careful not to hit the
glass)push toogle bolts through hole ,they are spring loaded so they flip
back up underneath place spoiler brackets over bolts and tighten nuts
and WOOLA :beer MORE :beer

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 9:29 pm

The glass in my hatch had holes in it for the mounting of the standard spoungy rubber spoiler... are these on all hatches?

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:32 pm

pcuser51 wrote::D Well guys i have got your answer for you in the form of TOOGLE BOLTS you buy them at hard ware stores. drill 12mm holes through
the top fiberglass where your brackets go(beging careful not to hit the
glass)push toogle bolts through hole ,they are spring loaded so they flip
back up underneath place spoiler brackets over bolts and tighten nuts
and WOOLA :beer MORE :beer

Thats fine.. but HCCA's spoiler attaches via screws that go up through the spoiler up-rights.. so you need to screw it in from the inside of the hatch.

Post by **Alspos** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 9:02 am

And if you ever undo them and drop the flipped out bit you get another rattle.
Yes, all the rubber spoilers are attached with bolts through the hatch.

pcuser51 · Post by **pcuser51** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 5:08 pm

:) Cookie have not seen HAACs spoiler but if it is fiberglass can still do the same way if there is a flat area of any kind, just drill two holes 1 for
the thread and a larger one for the nut and fiberglass over :)

Cookiemonster · Post by **Cookiemonster** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 5:16 pm

He posted a picture of it on page 1.

Here it is:

How do you bolt that spoiler down from the top?

pcuser51 · Post by **pcuser51** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 6:38 pm

:) With great diffidently, but could still be done just longer thread down
through the top; or you could glue it HAA (I would do both just to be on
the safe side, other than drilling rear glass) 8)

hcca · Post by **hcca** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 1:55 pm

I'm not confident that glue alone would hold it. Long screws down through the top could be done, but that would necessitate bogging over the screw holes and painting after the wing is attached and therefore making it incredibly difficult to remove in the future.

The only ways I can think how it can be done are:

a) Removing the glass (not my preferred option as my experience with removing the windscreen resulted in brokenness). Also it can only be removed by removing the glass again.

b) Drilling. Not safe, don't have a spare hatch.

c) Skewing anchor screws down near the base of the legs on the inside edge. This could be done fairly neatly by countersinking the hole. There is a piece of metal in the base of the legs so that provides an anchor, and the fibreglass hatch should be ok in conjunction with glue. Problem here is that I need to assume that the legs are not hollow otherwise this won't work.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 2:09 pm

is there no way you can move the supports of the spoiler to where the holes in the glass for the original spoiler mountings are?

[edited grammer, im an assclown]

hcca · Post by **hcca** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:43 pm

Ok, that is another possibility, although i'm not keen to butcher it up myself and a f/g joint would obviously charge, the key is how much? If it was more than $50, I don't think i'd bother.

pcuser51 · Post by **pcuser51** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:54 pm

:D That is probably the easyest way there is about 5or6 holes along the
back, providing the glass has holes already in it :)

Post by **Alspos** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 1:17 pm

No holes in the glass (except for the wiper arm sprocket thingy)

WANTSOM · Post by **WANTSOM** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:07 pm

I just did a bit of research on glass cutting for you.

A couple of things - glass is semi solid/liquid. It is the "liquid" part that enables you to etch a line then "snap" off a piece of glass when cutting. The difficiulty is when you are making uncontrolled incisions into the glass and it doesnt know whicj line to follow - it goes anywhere.

You can also drill glass otherwise the holes wouldn't be there in the first place.

So what I found is ....

You need to control where the liquid is going to go when you drill because it is goijg to want to relocate. Etch a circle (do it in one go and dont go back over it) slightly larger than where you are going to drill. Tape around where you want to drill. That will hold the liquid in one place and stop shatter/splinters.

Second you need to aquire a "spear tip drill". These are apparently attainable from glaziers/glass suppliers and are used for drilling glass. If you can get one have a go at the job, if you cant, abandon drilling there and then. Its a job to do with only proper tools.

Failing that, epoxy glue lile they use to stick moulded body parts on with. Maries rear spoiler is attached with that - it doesnt bloody move.

Hope it helps.

G

tmz_99 · Post by **tmz_99** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:11 pm

those drill bits should also be avaiable in bunnings, I used to use them to drill holes into bottles, they work fine on an angle as well.....

if you cant find any, and you have PLENTY of patience, a very nice hole can be created using a dremmel with the diamond tipped etching attachment.. takes a while tho...

Austarion

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you can cut/drill glass

spear tipped drill bits

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