Thrash: Reincarnation

Display your ride and post power figures, dyno runs, drag and circuit times.
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Looking good Mamun
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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www.18u
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Post by www.18u »

Is this running yet? Or are you busy eating more cream cottage cheese to hold other parts of the car up? LOL
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

nope, no where near running yet. It's not even off the stands yet, thanks to a bit of a muck up with the gearbox mount. I wish I had welding equipment - if you want something done right, do it yourself..

but.. the gearbox mount is the last thing that needs to be done before the car is on the ground. Brakes and suspension are in, brake and clutch just needs to be bled.

Thanks again to Tomsun for organising all those group buys! My car and I are both indebted to you!

And those HEL brake lines.. wtf.. how could they possibly have gotten it wrong so many times? Even the final product, did they have to skimp on that last inch of braided hose that would have meant we didn't have to bend the brackets to fit??

Anyway, here are some pictures

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Gearbox mount is well made, but unfortunately blocking the speedo port. I'm a little bit unhappy about this as I didn't rush the guy. He had a full month to do everything, i just wanted him to get it right. While I was in a rush to get the car ready to race in November, I had just cable tied the speedo cable to the mount so I could finish off the rest of the car and come back to it, but now i've left the box propped up on a large bucket and some old brake discs (No cheese tubs, Shannon, you skinny bastard) and given the guy the mount so he can make another one correctly.

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Brake lines are a tight fit.. but at least they are in
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
ProZac
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Post by ProZac »

Agreed on the HEL brake lines, absolute rubbish product. Fucked it up twice for me, and they're STILL not 100%.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

I suppose at least for us Aussies they are ADR approved.. BrakeQuip who supply the official ADR stuff, their parts to make 8 lines would cost 400-500 bucks apparently :shock: and then you'd have 100-150 labour on top
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
ProZac
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Post by ProZac »

Yeah, that's why I went with the HEL ones too. Wish I'd bought the Goodridge ones now, as they meet the certifications standard over here, and apparently fit much better.
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Lunacy
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Post by Lunacy »

ProZac wrote:Yeah, that's why I went with the HEL ones too. Wish I'd bought the Goodridge ones now, as they meet the certifications standard over here, and apparently fit much better.
I got the goodridge ones for less than $120 for the UK. And they def fit well.
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redzone
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Post by redzone »

I sell ADR approved ones that actually fit, made locally on the sunshine coast, for $300 for front and rear. Just sayin'
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

dude!! you shoulda been 'just sayin' that shit earlier! Or put it in your signature!

but anyway, Down the track after the car is finished and I have some cash left over, I will replace these with your ones then :beer
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

redzone wrote:I sell ADR approved ones that actually fit, made locally on the sunshine coast, for $300 for front and rear. Just sayin'
And they work nice. There is threads in here about them somewhere
redzone
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Post by redzone »

Yeah if u had've done a search, i started a thread on them a while back.. Al has them on his car. I stopped pushing them when these HEL guys started offering theirs heaps cheaper than i could do them.. But it rather looks like you get what you pay for!
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... ided+brake

Nice. The one piece centre mount fronts, are they free to move/slide within the mount?
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
redzone
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Post by redzone »

thrash wrote:http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... ided+brake

Nice. The one piece centre mount fronts, are they free to move/slide within the mount?
They are crimped very slightly so you can position them where they need to go, once they are fitted they don't move though, I've had mine on for 15000km with no issues.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

New brake lines - thanks Redzone!
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New clutch slave - thanks Shannon!
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I love it when I get new parts deliveries!! :D
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

My rear number plate has been quite wobbly, and when i took it out, it turns out both the top bracket tabs were broken off.. So I figure now's as good a time as any to try my hand at some amateur metal work..

some basic templates - not very good as I had to grind off a LOT of metal to have it fit properly
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the finished product. a quick lick of paint as it's mostly hidden away and doesn't have to be super flashy
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an OK fit..
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Finished:
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Not the best job in the world, but not bad for an amateur's first go methinks :) If I redo it at some point, I think I would start with pre-angled metal instead of bending it myself.. but then I was thinking.. what if the whole thing were just made out of metal?

Lastly, a quick pic of how the shp wheels sit on the flatty. Given that the rears are 9" wide with a 0 offset, I think a +10 offset would be absolutely perfect for 9" wide wheels, but only with the D2s. I don't know if they'd rub against stock suspension. The fronts are 8" +18, so perhaps a +10 would be better here too, or as Mal has said to me, the 0 offset 8s would go well too

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quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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