Gormzz's Stazza..!

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:41 pm

now your talking redzone! that could be what im looking for.. so whats the best bet.. drop the torque tube and regrease up the spline and fit back up or?

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:33 am

yep pack it with the heaviest thickest grease u can find. it wont totally get rid of the noise if the spline is damaged though, and even when they were new, magazine road testers complained about that noise..

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:39 pm

yeah its not just the noise though.. its more of a slight clunk when changing gears relatively quick etc... its NOT real bad.. but just makes me baby her alot more then i want to as its intentions were to be used for drift etc.. and if im scared something is going to break like that.. and its hard to replace then it just worries me a little is all. Not sure if diff is the greatest either.. had it in first gear on some stands and just let the drivers side wheel roll.. the left wheel would slightly move a tad every 3 seconds.. under the assumption of the diff being welded? as its not a proper l.s.d. Might need to pull some stuff out and suss it all.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:02 pm

Thats good info on the torque tube - diff connection RZ, mine is a bit clunky also, will give that a try when i have it all out :)

Gormzz - Love that colour. What was the radiator you have fitted originally intended for?

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Tue Apr 17, 2012 4:12 pm

I had a memory after writing this the other day, even better than grease is to use neutral cure silicone!

Your clunk problem could be a broken or missing diff mount bolt gormzz..

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Tue Apr 17, 2012 5:28 pm

thanks prozac :). Got a bit of it left over after painting the guard. Starting to get a bit of a paint collection here haha. Yeah i will also look into that redzone.. i swear its either the torque tube or the diff.. certainly feels like it anyway. Just curious of what previous owner has put this car through..........

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:28 pm

oh and prozac the radiator was fitted from a previous owner to me.. possibly overheating issues somewhere? Has had a bit of a rough lifetime it seems.. with this being its second head and alot of stuff on the car being replaced.. and still more to go lol.

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:58 pm

regreased up the spline on torque tube.. it literally was that tight to the diff it took alot of leverage to get it off! and yeah near to no grease in there.. so packed it out heaps. Drives a little better no doubt.. but from some research on starquestclub.com it seems that the bearing inside the torque tube is most likely shot which is what the clunking noise is.. as its not a solid bearing and can slide around apparently? So no local sellers in australia who sell the front bearing inside the torque tube? Otherwise i will have to source one from the U.S.

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:07 pm

Replaced the oil return line from the turbo to the sump today.. also fitted up a manual boost controller to test it out..

latest issue is it works by using the first seven clicks on the knob on the boost controller.. hence being 7psi right? anything after that it doesn't work.. i can't work out why its not letting me go past 7psi on the boost gauge to 14psi aka 1.0bar on the boost gauge... is there something i haven't done right? its just the line between your actuator and the compressor housing of the turbo and you cut it in half and put the two lines into each port (two ports in total) on the manual boost controller? i aint sure if there is something with the ecu preventing it from raising the boost or if i've missed something.. just thought it was meant to be a simple way to get a boost increase without a electric boost controller? help appreciated!!

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:10 pm

Post up a pic of your boost controller? Im almost 100% certain the number of clicks wont represent psi of boost.

These bleed style controllers can never let you run less boost than your car runs from factory, so I'd say you've just got it set to bleed almost no air from the line, thus you;re running your stock 7psi pressure.

They usually have a ball-valve in them too, and will only work in one direction. Any arrows on the controller to show installation direction?

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:18 pm

Ahh i'll have to try get a photo tommorrow of it..

Yeah i didn't think so either.. but was unsure how else you were meant to determine otherwise unless taking it for a drive... Well i turned it straight to the left (- on the boost controller) and when i went to get up the car it would go from vaccuum to 0 and thats it.. as soon as i went 7 clicks or higher it wouldn't go past 0.5bar/7psi. Yeah its only putting out the stock 7psi pressure but i thought by just adjusting the knob to the + side it would allow a increase of boost pressure?

Yeah we tried the boost controller both ways and it worked both ways to 7psi.. but the arrow as indicated was meant to be the line from the actuator so we left it at that and tried to raise the boost and it wouldn't read any higher.. like its cut of or something..?

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:34 pm

Manual boost controllers can be notoriously dodgy.

Where does your map sensor (and thus your boost gauge) take its signal from?

If yours is a non intercooled car, running the stock turbo housing, then yeap, the vacuum line should go from the compressor cover, to your boost controller, to your wastegate actuator. Nowhere else.

Take the controller off, twist it all the way to its '-', put your finger over the outlet (end the arrow is pointing to) and try to blow into it. You shouldn't be able to, as it wont bleed any air out (its set to max '-'), and your blocking the outlet with your finger.

Then set it to max '+', do the same thing (still blocking the outlet with your finger), you should now be able to blow into it a little, as it should bleed some air out.

There is no way to know, with a bleed style boost controller, how much boost your car will run for a given setting, without having actually driven it and observed.

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:51 pm

yeah i know that..

i'm unsure of this, whereever the stock one is?

yeah its not intercooled.. but yeah it goes from the compressor housing to boost controller.. to the wastegate actuator.. thats it.

Yeah i will attempt that tommorrow.. and with the + you can keep clicking it in that direction and it goes for ages like it doesnt stop turning to the + side.... the - side on the other hand will stop and you cant turn anymore.

Hopefully there aint anything else blocking this off from me increasing my psi even to 12 - 14psi.. as at first i thought it was the fuel cut.. but i cant even get past 7psi yet.

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Mon May 07, 2012 11:29 pm

tried a mates boost controller which works.. still not going past 7psi.. did the test you were saying and their is very minimal air coming through.. we took the restrictive airbox and intake of and bam the car was dosing and pulling more then 7psi.. so the restrictiveness was that bad?!? and most likely the sensor could be stuffed to? what you reckon? my approach was just to get the GM 3" intake and translator and hopefully it should all work then?

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Tue May 08, 2012 12:16 am

Yea the air box is shocking, I ended up cutting a square in the side of mine and making an aluminum 'air scoop' for it to allow more air flow without looking like a hack job or filling with water ect. There is a mod you can do to remove the afm by taking off a sensor and re connecting it but for me it ran rich and after a few weeks I put it back in as it ran shit.

It would probably pay to replace the air filter as it probably hasn't been done in years

Austarion

Gormzz's Stazza..!

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