GM 3" MAF/Translator
GM 3" MAF/Translator
Alright Guys,
Been doing a bit of research on the starquestclub forum regarding the best option on freeing up the intake pipe from filter to turbo and what is the right way to go.. The best one i've looked into so far is the GM MAF w/ Translator which is meant to be nearly a plug and play into stock harness and ecu.. Obviously will need a wideband to get the afr right and tune it accordingly. So questions come to mind on how this all works..
Is it simply to buy the translator, 3" GM MAF, wideband.. hook them all up to stock plugs and tune accordingly? OR is there splicing of wires needed and alot more hassle involved?
The MAF will be mounted just after the pod filter but before the turbo compressor housing correct?
If anyone has any more insight onto this modification for the intake.. your help would be much appreciated! There is just information all scattered around.. without a step by step on how to do this.. Also if there is a cheaper or similar way for aussies to upgrade the restrictive vortex afm to a similar maf like the gm one then that could be put forward in this thread also!
kgo.
Been doing a bit of research on the starquestclub forum regarding the best option on freeing up the intake pipe from filter to turbo and what is the right way to go.. The best one i've looked into so far is the GM MAF w/ Translator which is meant to be nearly a plug and play into stock harness and ecu.. Obviously will need a wideband to get the afr right and tune it accordingly. So questions come to mind on how this all works..
Is it simply to buy the translator, 3" GM MAF, wideband.. hook them all up to stock plugs and tune accordingly? OR is there splicing of wires needed and alot more hassle involved?
The MAF will be mounted just after the pod filter but before the turbo compressor housing correct?
If anyone has any more insight onto this modification for the intake.. your help would be much appreciated! There is just information all scattered around.. without a step by step on how to do this.. Also if there is a cheaper or similar way for aussies to upgrade the restrictive vortex afm to a similar maf like the gm one then that could be put forward in this thread also!
kgo.
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It's truly a plug and play. Nothing to splice. I used it on one of my cars with great results. There are some adjustments that can be made but it's all taken care of by way of switches inside the translator unit itself. A wideband won't be absolutely necessary as there isn't a lot of fine tuning of the unit, but it wouldn't hurt to have one anyway. When making adjustments to the fuel curve it's done over a range of rpms. Mine had four adjustment knob/switches, Idle, low, mid, upper.
Here is a good install article from way back when.
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/inde ... omsearch=1
Kane
Here is a good install article from way back when.
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/inde ... omsearch=1
Kane
Read this from VR4gone
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=15
He installed one and needed to do some cutting and splicing as the connectors were different on his Staz. Still sounds easy though.
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=15
He installed one and needed to do some cutting and splicing as the connectors were different on his Staz. Still sounds easy though.
1988 Mitsubishi Starion EX Widebody
1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX
1991 Mitsubishi L200 Double Cab Sport
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1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX
1991 Mitsubishi L200 Double Cab Sport
2010 Holden Colorado Ute
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Just added a photo of the wiring for ease.
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=15
Just to clarify, there are two ways to tune with the translator, MAF or RPM. I run mine in MAF. It's the easiest way. This system is NOT plug and play on the Aus delivered starion. I also run this system on my J spec vr4 which IS plug and play. The Kharmon vortex AFM on the starion has a different plug to the vr4. The US delivered starion (2.6L) has the same plug as the vr4 which is why it can be plug and play on the American conquest.
The unit I run has 4 knobs light, mid, wot for fuel adjustment and a base knob for injector size. It also has switches for cold start, 3.5" MAF, NO2 trigger and something else I can't think of from the top of my head.
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=15
Just to clarify, there are two ways to tune with the translator, MAF or RPM. I run mine in MAF. It's the easiest way. This system is NOT plug and play on the Aus delivered starion. I also run this system on my J spec vr4 which IS plug and play. The Kharmon vortex AFM on the starion has a different plug to the vr4. The US delivered starion (2.6L) has the same plug as the vr4 which is why it can be plug and play on the American conquest.
The unit I run has 4 knobs light, mid, wot for fuel adjustment and a base knob for injector size. It also has switches for cold start, 3.5" MAF, NO2 trigger and something else I can't think of from the top of my head.
ok thats the more information i was looking for.. but at the end of the day it really isn't alot more work to do for a upgraded intake with a higher flowing maf sensor correct?
really its just a small amount of splicing which isn't much at all but relatively will still be a bolt up/easy install job opposed to trying to find a alternative solution for a replacement less restrictive intake/maf sensor?
really its just a small amount of splicing which isn't much at all but relatively will still be a bolt up/easy install job opposed to trying to find a alternative solution for a replacement less restrictive intake/maf sensor?
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You're correct. It's really quite simple, quite accurate in fuel metering and very effective. The only two things left that effect breathing on the inlet side is the throttle and inlet manifold. IMO there is no cheaper, better way to free up some HP provided you upgrade a couple of other things like the turbo, IC, fuel pump, exhaust, injectors. These are pretty standard upgades everyone does to their performance car to increase HP.GormzZ wrote:ok thats the more information i was looking for.. but at the end of the day it really isn't alot more work to do for a upgraded intake with a higher flowing maf sensor correct?
really its just a small amount of splicing which isn't much at all but relatively will still be a bolt up/easy install job opposed to trying to find a alternative solution for a replacement less restrictive intake/maf sensor?
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I got 13.9's out of a ja with a stock ecu, uncut airbox & stock tc06, be interesting to see if anyone can better that with a maf translator
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ok thats good. yeah i plan to do the mpi swap in the near future but for the meantime i just wanted to modify the current air components on the vehicle which are the exhaust and intake.. free up alot of restriction that i've done in my research and looking for some decent gains with more noise coming from the old girl. will also do the fuel pump shortly but injectors/IC/ mpi will be done at a later date when i can take it of road for a bit longer.vr4gone wrote:You're correct. It's really quite simple, quite accurate in fuel metering and very effective. The only two things left that effect breathing on the inlet side is the throttle and inlet manifold. IMO there is no cheaper, better way to free up some HP provided you upgrade a couple of other things like the turbo, IC, fuel pump, exhaust, injectors. These are pretty standard upgades everyone does to their performance car to increase HP.GormzZ wrote:ok thats the more information i was looking for.. but at the end of the day it really isn't alot more work to do for a upgraded intake with a higher flowing maf sensor correct?
really its just a small amount of splicing which isn't much at all but relatively will still be a bolt up/easy install job opposed to trying to find a alternative solution for a replacement less restrictive intake/maf sensor?
and redzone ill try for a 13.5 once i get the exhaust, gm 3" maf and boost wounded up to 14psi and see if i can reach said time..! otherwise.. you win..... lol.
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i was running 20psi, fuel cut defender, VR4 cast pistons, 2.4 head, early eci lower manifold..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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