1320ft's 2.3L Strip Warrior, Cage is in PG8

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:39 am

I was referring to a 2.4 block with a 2l crank ;) long rods

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:41 pm

Just put my thinking cap on and one can use 12 mm longer rods in a destroker by useing a 63 crank, 2.3 stroker pistons in the 64 block for an even better rod ratio :D

turbofusion · Post by **turbofusion** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:25 pm

redzone wrote:I was referring to a 2.4 block with a 2l crank ;) long rods

I know, it's supposed to be good for 12 or 13k rpm. But just because it's possible doesn't make it right. lol

1320ft · Post by **1320ft** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:47 pm

Well the fuel tank and factory lines are now gone. Along with the factory tail shaft.

Looking at anchors thread, which is better; The Kiggly or the Magnus Girdle?

And will the moroso sump fit the staz?

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:51 am

i dont know if anyone's tried the moroso sump yet..

1320ft · Post by **1320ft** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 3:58 pm

Well, got abit more done today.

Degreased and Gerni'd the Engine Bay today

Removed the Hatch Glass, get it ready for a Lexan Copy

Stripped

Trial Fitting the MT 26" x 8.5" x 15" ET Drag Tyres

There is about Half an Inch of clearence between the strut and the tyre.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:33 pm

gonna cut the intrusion bars out of the doors?

1320ft · Post by **1320ft** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:45 pm

redzone wrote:gonna cut the intrusion bars out of the doors?

While I was waiting for the engine bay to dry, I went about removing the door locks (dont have keys anymore) and attempting to fix the passenger side door release. I notice the steel plate on the intrusion bar. Wholy f*ck!.

I plan on removing it. Done it before dave? Advise?

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:58 pm

slice it down the middle vertically then drill out the spotwelds either end, i've never done it but thats the way i'd attack it. they're pretty heavy!

JJH · Post by **JJH** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:54 am

Removed the Hatch Glass, get it ready for a Lexan Copy

Aaron, can you let me know what kind of $'s the Lexan replacement will be; I'm planning on replacing mine in the next round of upgrades.
I had investigated using 5-6mm tinted poly-carbonate, so it'd be good to have a price comparison with the Lexan.
Thanks

panda · Post by **panda** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:24 am

Aaron, me too. I'm considering the same rear hatch mod to mine.

panda

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:59 pm

i forget, which one was it that was road legal? lexan or polycarbonate or..?

and please do share prices for the polycarbonate ones JJH?

JJH · Post by **JJH** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:23 pm

thrash, I haven't priced the poly for the hatch yet. I'll try and get a price this month, otherwise it'll be sometime in April.
I'm not too concerned about road legal as mine is 98% competition use.
I've used tinted poly for the door & rear quarter glass so far; scratches pretty easy but you have to be at the right angle & get pretty close to tell.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:12 pm

you can get stuff similar to cling film but more durable to cover up polycarbonate stuff that you want to protect from scratching - it's cheap enough to cut up into the shape required and then throw away when scratched up and redo - keeps the scratches away from the poly. dn't know what it's called :(

if you stick it on well enough, it's not visible that it's a separate layer :)

fugazi · Post by **fugazi** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:13 pm

thrash wrote:...lexan or polycarbonate or..?

Lexan (and Makrolon + some others) are trademarks for types of polycarbonate.

Austarion

1320ft's 2.3L Strip Warrior, Cage is in PG8

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