vr4 swap need more input
vr4 swap need more input
i just want to make shure of some things so i can get a rough idea on cost.I know about the tb being on the wrong side im going to run a haltech so not fussed about the loom much but is there anything else i should know about like does the gearbox really bolt straight up and i can use my old mounts cause i know the blocks are the same any help would be great thanks
$8K 
Engine $1400
Halteach $2000 installed/tuned
Gearbox adaptor plate $....
Bits n pieces here and there.....?
Labour costs.........expensive, though try to do as much as you can yourself and it should turn out fine.
Or you could buy the race built VR4 engine $4500 in the Buy/Sell section and then it might cost $8K :D
I think tmz was trying to scare you :?
Engine $1400
Halteach $2000 installed/tuned
Gearbox adaptor plate $....
Bits n pieces here and there.....?
Labour costs.........expensive, though try to do as much as you can yourself and it should turn out fine.
Or you could buy the race built VR4 engine $4500 in the Buy/Sell section and then it might cost $8K :D
I think tmz was trying to scare you :?
It's not quite as simple as that. If you can get it all done for $8K, you should be thankful. However, this will only give you a second hand original km engine. You may want to consider the option of rebuilding the Starion engine using everything VR4, that way you can keep the Starion box.
Do a search and you will find plenty of info.
Do a search and you will find plenty of info.
Please register your vehicle details on the AUSTRALIAN STARION REGISTRY <HERE>
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
There's quite alot of preparation to be done. Things like a new exh manifold, gearbox (may i suggest something stronger than the starion one), water piping and thermostat housing, firewall adjusting (to fit cam angle sensor in), wiring and computer, just to name a few. There are heaps of topics about this, and a couple of ppl like SCUM actually in the process of doing the conversion. If you do have the patience and a fairly good strong wallet (you'll be opening it a few times) you will reap the benefits of great power and copious amounts of wheelspin. I am running the Haltech on mine and she goes like a rocket. Where abouts u from? Cos if ur in perth i know the best places to get the ecu and the motor.
Steve.
Steve.
-
SpidersWeb
- postwhore!
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 2:29 am
- Location: Wellington, NZ
el cheapo NZ budget:
VR4 engine, old with blowby etc, $500-800 (may already be in pieces)
VR4 chipped ECU - $150-$300
Then with some new rings, assuming the pistons in the VR4 motor are reasonable, get an engine rebuild done (basic) - unsure of cost - I could pay someone on mates rates to do it properly for around 500-1000 with no blue printing or anything, just swap the stuff. You rebuild the VR4 engine using the Starion block. If you're skilled, you may be able to do this yourself.
Fit it, wire up the VR4 sensors and the likes yourself, install VR4 ECU and loom.
Put VR4 engine were Starion motor once was. Since you used the Starion block, the gearbox will now line up.
Along the way there will be bullocks problems, so there will be more cash involved. Dont forget new head gasket, should get some ARP bolts, piston rings, replacement of any dead bearings or pistons, maybe a cam belt or heavy duty clutch while you are there.
But cheapest method to me seems VR4 ECU, VR4 engine, Starion block
Dont forget bigger turbo to feed the twin cam.
This is all NZ based, so I know your figures will be a lot different, but the very el cheapo method could likely to be done for $2-3K if you did as much as possible yourself, and knew people who could cut you a deal.
What makes it much cheaper, is by using the VR4 ECU chipped, you have an engine that'll run 18psi without leaning out, no speed cut, and dont have to pay some one to tune it, or wire it in.
Its based on ideas, I haven't actually done this, and when/if I do, I probably will avoid shortcuts, and take the path as tmz_99 suggested.
For a good setup, I agree with tmz_99, 8 grand is a good budget.
VR4 engine, old with blowby etc, $500-800 (may already be in pieces)
VR4 chipped ECU - $150-$300
Then with some new rings, assuming the pistons in the VR4 motor are reasonable, get an engine rebuild done (basic) - unsure of cost - I could pay someone on mates rates to do it properly for around 500-1000 with no blue printing or anything, just swap the stuff. You rebuild the VR4 engine using the Starion block. If you're skilled, you may be able to do this yourself.
Fit it, wire up the VR4 sensors and the likes yourself, install VR4 ECU and loom.
Put VR4 engine were Starion motor once was. Since you used the Starion block, the gearbox will now line up.
Along the way there will be bullocks problems, so there will be more cash involved. Dont forget new head gasket, should get some ARP bolts, piston rings, replacement of any dead bearings or pistons, maybe a cam belt or heavy duty clutch while you are there.
But cheapest method to me seems VR4 ECU, VR4 engine, Starion block
Dont forget bigger turbo to feed the twin cam.
This is all NZ based, so I know your figures will be a lot different, but the very el cheapo method could likely to be done for $2-3K if you did as much as possible yourself, and knew people who could cut you a deal.
What makes it much cheaper, is by using the VR4 ECU chipped, you have an engine that'll run 18psi without leaning out, no speed cut, and dont have to pay some one to tune it, or wire it in.
Its based on ideas, I haven't actually done this, and when/if I do, I probably will avoid shortcuts, and take the path as tmz_99 suggested.
For a good setup, I agree with tmz_99, 8 grand is a good budget.
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
-
SpidersWeb
- postwhore!
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 2:29 am
- Location: Wellington, NZ
Oh yeah and you have to modify the VR4 inlet setup so that the throttle body is on the opp side of the plenum (facing forwards). And the custom exhaust manifold is compulsory. I didn't include those in my thoughts above. :glare:
I should also mention, when you go el cheapo, Ive found it only works out 25% of the time, often (especially with cars of this age) something hirrendous goes wrong and the cost rockets up. :glare:
Ive spent $5000 on my Staz, and its getting there. But once I fix one thing, something else breaks. Its still got no WOF and the only mod so far has been the bloody air can. :glare: :glare: :glare:
I should also mention, when you go el cheapo, Ive found it only works out 25% of the time, often (especially with cars of this age) something hirrendous goes wrong and the cost rockets up. :glare:
Ive spent $5000 on my Staz, and its getting there. But once I fix one thing, something else breaks. Its still got no WOF and the only mod so far has been the bloody air can. :glare: :glare: :glare:
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
It goes without saying that if you know people in the industry, and/or you can do alot of the work yourself, you can do it for much less than 8-10K. I mean, I can renovate a complete bathroom from new walls to painted finish for 3K, but I am in the industry. :p
Generally, it is a good idea to be pessimistic, quote maximum figures and end up doing it for less than the budgeted amount, thereby having change for further mods or whatever. If you don't do that, then plenty of people, especially those who don't know much about the mechnical side of things, will read "vr4 conversion for 4K, wow". They will start on it and not very far into it will find that 4k hasn't got them very far, especially if they are paying a professional to do the work. To do it properly, 8K would be the minimum that I would recommend budgeting for such a conversion (assuming you want to do it properly).
For most people who aren't in the industry, it's simply not that easy.
Generally, it is a good idea to be pessimistic, quote maximum figures and end up doing it for less than the budgeted amount, thereby having change for further mods or whatever. If you don't do that, then plenty of people, especially those who don't know much about the mechnical side of things, will read "vr4 conversion for 4K, wow". They will start on it and not very far into it will find that 4k hasn't got them very far, especially if they are paying a professional to do the work. To do it properly, 8K would be the minimum that I would recommend budgeting for such a conversion (assuming you want to do it properly).
For most people who aren't in the industry, it's simply not that easy.
Last edited by NXTIME on Fri May 21, 2004 3:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Please register your vehicle details on the AUSTRALIAN STARION REGISTRY <HERE>
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
amen to that boys,
we've blown way more than 8k and thats on a VR4 doing everything ourselves!! it's the little things though that get ya cos i'm assuming anyone doing a vr4 conversion is gonna want to do a little better than a stock vr4
don't forget "little things" like fuel reg, fuel pump, exhaust, new pipes hoses timing belts tensioners spark plug leads, clutch, seals etc etc
it's little things like this 50 bucks here, 20 bucks there that really take your cash and don't forget the extra time your car will be off the road cos of these little things, i think 8k is even being a tad optimistic for something decent.
Budget with your brain an not your heart (ie overestimate EVERYTHING)and you'll see that the results are there. I've seen to many people driving around in 12 sec cars with 15 sec brakes ,suspension and drivelines :D it wastes a crapload more cash in the end too and you don't get anywhere near as much joy outta the car.
just my 2 cents :)
we've blown way more than 8k and thats on a VR4 doing everything ourselves!! it's the little things though that get ya cos i'm assuming anyone doing a vr4 conversion is gonna want to do a little better than a stock vr4
don't forget "little things" like fuel reg, fuel pump, exhaust, new pipes hoses timing belts tensioners spark plug leads, clutch, seals etc etc
it's little things like this 50 bucks here, 20 bucks there that really take your cash and don't forget the extra time your car will be off the road cos of these little things, i think 8k is even being a tad optimistic for something decent.
Budget with your brain an not your heart (ie overestimate EVERYTHING)and you'll see that the results are there. I've seen to many people driving around in 12 sec cars with 15 sec brakes ,suspension and drivelines :D it wastes a crapload more cash in the end too and you don't get anywhere near as much joy outta the car.
just my 2 cents :)
How fast do those doorhandles go mate!
ok first of all thanks heaps to everyone who replied.I should have explained myself a touch better i am an engine reconditioner by trade and have a mate who owns just engine management who is a haltech dealer and will wire the car and dyno tune it. I also have alot of mates who are experienced in doing wierd and wonderfull conversions (mr genius) you should know him (nxtime) i think he rang you when i was searching for a staz. If the bolt pattern is different and i will need a new exhaust manifold i will rebuild the staz bottom end and use either a vr4 head or a hyundai lantra 2.0L head same engine just non turbo same cc's and all. Im sorry i sould have read the previous discussions but my computer is so sloooooooow and crashes all the time i have 5k saved as a budget so im hoping not to spend much more thanks agin every one
Hi,
Yes, I know Nathan and Adam. Since youhave all the contacts, then I think you should have yourself a very decent engine once its all done. I have a spare twin cam n/a head and injection if you need - it that needs new valves etc. To keep costs down (and remain within your budget), you may want to stick with the Starion block and therefore gearbox. However, there isn't anything stopping you from using a toyota box and adaptor to mate to either Starion or VR4 block.
Do you know the guy who ran a 10.2 in the VR4'd white GSR?
Charlie.
Yes, I know Nathan and Adam. Since youhave all the contacts, then I think you should have yourself a very decent engine once its all done. I have a spare twin cam n/a head and injection if you need - it that needs new valves etc. To keep costs down (and remain within your budget), you may want to stick with the Starion block and therefore gearbox. However, there isn't anything stopping you from using a toyota box and adaptor to mate to either Starion or VR4 block.
Do you know the guy who ran a 10.2 in the VR4'd white GSR?
Charlie.
Please register your vehicle details on the AUSTRALIAN STARION REGISTRY <HERE>
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests