'81 Scorpion
ahh, so does it double as a radiator overflow tank? or is there a separate overflow tank?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
Err no it happens to ge the highest point in the cooling system so any trapped air will bleed outthrash wrote:ahh, so does it double as a radiator overflow tank? or is there a separate overflow tank?
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
wowskies lol
Lummy, I have a magazine with your car in it somewhere, its an absolute beast :)
I'm thinking of doing an NA DOHC 4G63 with ITB's conversion when my P's are done with (finally got my greens btw lol)
Currently it has a leaky heater (brand new core and tap 6 months ago :x ) and a rather annoying habit of shaking above 110km/h.
BTW, I have another one :P
This is the white one, parked up in the grass with no motor :(
It's a 1978 model Chrysler Scorpion, originally 4G52 5 speed. It's got the 8-bolt 3.9:1 rear end and factory air con :D
I'm going to restore it to full original specs, minus the air con and the addition of twin 40mm Webers, full 2 1/4" exhaust, lowered springs, electric guard mirrors and Starion brakes up front. I'm going to get rid of the black rubber bits on the bumpers too, as they're ugly as lol
Apparently that Great Wall mob bought the tooling etc for the W58 Supra 'box and run direct copies behind narrowblock 4G64 engines, so that's something to look into as well ($90-odd plus shipping from China for the bellhousing if what I've read is correct :D)
Anywho, my mate is going to be pissed at me if I don't go to the pub and have a drink with her for her mum's birthday so I'm gonna go do that lol
Lummy, I have a magazine with your car in it somewhere, its an absolute beast :)
I'm thinking of doing an NA DOHC 4G63 with ITB's conversion when my P's are done with (finally got my greens btw lol)
Currently it has a leaky heater (brand new core and tap 6 months ago :x ) and a rather annoying habit of shaking above 110km/h.
BTW, I have another one :P
This is the white one, parked up in the grass with no motor :(
It's a 1978 model Chrysler Scorpion, originally 4G52 5 speed. It's got the 8-bolt 3.9:1 rear end and factory air con :D
I'm going to restore it to full original specs, minus the air con and the addition of twin 40mm Webers, full 2 1/4" exhaust, lowered springs, electric guard mirrors and Starion brakes up front. I'm going to get rid of the black rubber bits on the bumpers too, as they're ugly as lol
Apparently that Great Wall mob bought the tooling etc for the W58 Supra 'box and run direct copies behind narrowblock 4G64 engines, so that's something to look into as well ($90-odd plus shipping from China for the bellhousing if what I've read is correct :D)
Anywho, my mate is going to be pissed at me if I don't go to the pub and have a drink with her for her mum's birthday so I'm gonna go do that lol
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
-
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
hey if u need or want any spares for the 78 i've got a bit of stuff lying around still form my old one...
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Thanks :)
Anywho, the blue one shat itself today. It runs ok, but only when it wants to start, which is a bit dicey because it rarely wants to. It sounds sort of off-beat when it's turning over, too.
It also has diesely rattling noises under load at low revs, which leads me to think that it's farked.
Anywho, the blue one shat itself today. It runs ok, but only when it wants to start, which is a bit dicey because it rarely wants to. It sounds sort of off-beat when it's turning over, too.
It also has diesely rattling noises under load at low revs, which leads me to think that it's farked.
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
Not much new, it's still killing the grass on my front lawn as I haven't had the money to fix it. I'm pretty sure all it needs is a timing chain tensioner and a tune, but it could have burnt valves because I was running it fairly advanced on the ignition timing for a fair while. I'm going to give it a once over sometime in the next fortnight, hopefully it'll be an easy fix.
On a brighter note, I managed to turn up the 2" straight through exhaust the blueslip guy told me to change as it was too loud, so I'll be chucking that back on as soon as I've fixed the running issues.
It's just too quiet for my liking, and the stock exhaust seems to be restricting it a fair bit. It would only rev to around 4k with the stock exhaust before it ran out of breath, whereas it would run out to 6-6.5k with the less restrictive 2" system. It sounded like a sick tractor under about 3.5k, but the noise above that was just something else altogether :)
I've also got a 34/34 Weber to go on along with a 2L cam, so it should move a little livelier than it did, once it actually moves again that is :P
It's a great learning experience, doing this heap up. I've done all the work, including fabricating the exhaust (it's made from a stock GH Scorpion system, and offcuts and a muffler flogged from the bins at the exhaust shop) myself and I've learnt heaps. I thought I was king shit when I started, but now I realize that there's always more to learn.
On a brighter note, I managed to turn up the 2" straight through exhaust the blueslip guy told me to change as it was too loud, so I'll be chucking that back on as soon as I've fixed the running issues.
It's just too quiet for my liking, and the stock exhaust seems to be restricting it a fair bit. It would only rev to around 4k with the stock exhaust before it ran out of breath, whereas it would run out to 6-6.5k with the less restrictive 2" system. It sounded like a sick tractor under about 3.5k, but the noise above that was just something else altogether :)
I've also got a 34/34 Weber to go on along with a 2L cam, so it should move a little livelier than it did, once it actually moves again that is :P
It's a great learning experience, doing this heap up. I've done all the work, including fabricating the exhaust (it's made from a stock GH Scorpion system, and offcuts and a muffler flogged from the bins at the exhaust shop) myself and I've learnt heaps. I thought I was king shit when I started, but now I realize that there's always more to learn.
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
Here's some more recent photo's
New number plate, REGO! :D
14x7 ~+10 Cheviot mesh on the front (185/65R14), standard 14x5.5 +24 on the rear (215/65R14 lol). Ignore the tool in the flouro singlet, he seems to think it looks good LOL
And sitting in a lake while it's pissing down rain
I need 20mm spacers for the front and 25mm for the back, and some shanked wheel nuts so I can put my other pair of rims on, then I need to take 2 coils out of the front and a coil out of the rear and it'll look pretty much how I want it
New number plate, REGO! :D
14x7 ~+10 Cheviot mesh on the front (185/65R14), standard 14x5.5 +24 on the rear (215/65R14 lol). Ignore the tool in the flouro singlet, he seems to think it looks good LOL
And sitting in a lake while it's pissing down rain
I need 20mm spacers for the front and 25mm for the back, and some shanked wheel nuts so I can put my other pair of rims on, then I need to take 2 coils out of the front and a coil out of the rear and it'll look pretty much how I want it
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
Update, only a small one though
I broke the horn pad on the TR Magna steering wheel I was using, so I stripped the plastic bits off it and put a button on the console for the horn :P
I also made a shifter knob out of a Winchester 12ga shell, using a shitload of electrical tape :P It actually looks pretty neat.
I'll put some pics up when I find my phone cord
I broke the horn pad on the TR Magna steering wheel I was using, so I stripped the plastic bits off it and put a button on the console for the horn :P
I also made a shifter knob out of a Winchester 12ga shell, using a shitload of electrical tape :P It actually looks pretty neat.
I'll put some pics up when I find my phone cord
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
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- nearly postwhore
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 7:27 pm
- Location: Sunny Brisbane Australia!
I want that straight front bumper god damnit! mine's bent to shit.
E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | A164A Eterna GSR | 6G72 RWD Conversion Forum
lol
Fired it myself, although i'm sure the fox that caught the load didn't appreciate my doing so :lol:
Dg- looks pretty good ay, especially considering i fixed it by pulling it off and jumping on it :D
Fired it myself, although i'm sure the fox that caught the load didn't appreciate my doing so :lol:
Dg- looks pretty good ay, especially considering i fixed it by pulling it off and jumping on it :D
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
Wow, I forgot about this thread lol
The car's nearly back up and running, I just have to put it all back together, time it and hope it goes :P
It needed rings, bearings and a head, as I'd burnt valves in the one that was on it by running it too far advanced for too long on BP91 :x
So it's now running a rebuilt standard bottom end with a mild port 2L head, matchported factory intake manifold, 2L cam, factory carb, factory headers and a 2" exhaust that I welded up myself with a stick welder. Needless to say, the exhaust looks like shit but it should do the job without too much hassle LOL
I also spent some money on this:
GE sport pack tiller,
and these:
14x6j +17 Fortan Mesh.
The steering wheel was $10 at the wreckers, pulled it out of a hell bodgey looking turbo GH wagon :D
The rims were $170 posted from QLD, got them off a guy on Auszoku :)
It should be finished and back on the road within the next couple of weeks, hopefully in time for the next Sigma-Galant cruise.
The car's nearly back up and running, I just have to put it all back together, time it and hope it goes :P
It needed rings, bearings and a head, as I'd burnt valves in the one that was on it by running it too far advanced for too long on BP91 :x
So it's now running a rebuilt standard bottom end with a mild port 2L head, matchported factory intake manifold, 2L cam, factory carb, factory headers and a 2" exhaust that I welded up myself with a stick welder. Needless to say, the exhaust looks like shit but it should do the job without too much hassle LOL
I also spent some money on this:
GE sport pack tiller,
and these:
14x6j +17 Fortan Mesh.
The steering wheel was $10 at the wreckers, pulled it out of a hell bodgey looking turbo GH wagon :D
The rims were $170 posted from QLD, got them off a guy on Auszoku :)
It should be finished and back on the road within the next couple of weeks, hopefully in time for the next Sigma-Galant cruise.
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
Umm, yeah. Kinda forgot about this thread :P
So, since I last updated it was driven for about 1200km before the (slightly) dodgy bitsa oil pump shat itself and caused it to run a bearing. Everything else was good but the main bearings were cooked, as was the no.2 rod bearing, no.2 rod and the crank.
So the motor came out again and got a new oil pump (from a TR Magna), new main+rod bearings and the crank and rods from a buggered shortblock I had in the shed. Re-assembled the motor, put it back in the car with a new clutch plate, new thrust bearing and new spigot bearing, topped up all the fluids and got it going.
Unfortunately I'd forgotten to do the bolt holding the oil pump drive sprocket to the lower balance shaft and the balance shaft chain adjuster bolt up properly. The sprocket bolt spun out of it's hole and punched a hole in the timing case, and the loose adjuster caused a dead bearing-esque rattle.
Just goes to show, one should not finish assembling one's engine whilst tired/hungover from a mate's 21st the night before :P
So that's where I'm up to.
Pics:
The car, just before I pulled the engine out
Rebuilt motor in situ, with flash new rocker cover :P
Damage:
Pics from where it was sitting until Dad managed to get his hands on a car trailer:
I managed to pick up another engine while I was at it. My mate crashed his turbo '87 Triton, so I went and asked if I could have his spare motor. Carton of teddies later and it was mine :D
He'd built it to replace the basically stock+turbo Astron II that the ute was running.
It's based on a G54BT shortblock, with TS Magna rods, Wiseco 8.5:1 forgies, high flow oil pump, and instead of removing the balance shafts he had the weights turned off them. Head is a ported M4 with a mild cam.
Plans are to run it in atmo mode with a 32/36 on the RWD modded Magna carby manifold that came with it until I'm off my P's, then boost it.
So that's where I'm up to. I'll update this thread again when I get the new engine in.
So, since I last updated it was driven for about 1200km before the (slightly) dodgy bitsa oil pump shat itself and caused it to run a bearing. Everything else was good but the main bearings were cooked, as was the no.2 rod bearing, no.2 rod and the crank.
So the motor came out again and got a new oil pump (from a TR Magna), new main+rod bearings and the crank and rods from a buggered shortblock I had in the shed. Re-assembled the motor, put it back in the car with a new clutch plate, new thrust bearing and new spigot bearing, topped up all the fluids and got it going.
Unfortunately I'd forgotten to do the bolt holding the oil pump drive sprocket to the lower balance shaft and the balance shaft chain adjuster bolt up properly. The sprocket bolt spun out of it's hole and punched a hole in the timing case, and the loose adjuster caused a dead bearing-esque rattle.
Just goes to show, one should not finish assembling one's engine whilst tired/hungover from a mate's 21st the night before :P
So that's where I'm up to.
Pics:
The car, just before I pulled the engine out
Rebuilt motor in situ, with flash new rocker cover :P
Damage:
Pics from where it was sitting until Dad managed to get his hands on a car trailer:
I managed to pick up another engine while I was at it. My mate crashed his turbo '87 Triton, so I went and asked if I could have his spare motor. Carton of teddies later and it was mine :D
He'd built it to replace the basically stock+turbo Astron II that the ute was running.
It's based on a G54BT shortblock, with TS Magna rods, Wiseco 8.5:1 forgies, high flow oil pump, and instead of removing the balance shafts he had the weights turned off them. Head is a ported M4 with a mild cam.
Plans are to run it in atmo mode with a 32/36 on the RWD modded Magna carby manifold that came with it until I'm off my P's, then boost it.
So that's where I'm up to. I'll update this thread again when I get the new engine in.
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
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