tams fuel cut problem.

[jedi]

I have a problem like that with first starion i had. but only when it was cold.
check if you already havn't the airflow meter i cut out i part of my airbox out cut to much out and the air was by passing the airflow meter so the wasn' t giving the ecu the right info it cough and spatted and did some of the stuff you said but manly when it was cold.

and check you intercooler hoses make sure no spilts in them and there all tite.

hope it helps

[Tamgesic]

all hoses and things are sweet.

so far have replaced
injectors
coil
coil lead
dizzy
rotor
dizzy cap
leads
plugs (correctly gapped)
alternator
fixed up the cam timing which was out by two teeth
set the dizzy up properly (it was off by 90 degrees, and all the leads were set up to suit)
wastegate actuator
checked wastegate for free movement
map sensor(factory boost guage now works perfectly and mimics my autometer exactly)

the problem seems to pretty reliably happen at exactly 10psi(odd, because its a totally stock car). if i let the revs climb with little throttle, it will rev past 3500, but as soon as i put foot down and boost hits 10 it cuts. this made me think it was some sort of fuel cut. so i unplugged the lne that runs into the map sensor and the car still cuts at 10.

is unplugging the line into the map sensor/unplugging the whole map sensor a way to temporarily disable boost cut? (just to test why its cutting) i was under the impression that the map sensor is responsible for the boost cut?

[bigd]

Should be able to do 13 psi before cut if memory serves me correctly. What exactly are the symptoms if you put your foot down when taking off now?

[bigd]

Have you checked condition of the fuel filter in tank and in the engine bay? I'd replace the filters as well because if they are clogged then your fuel supply is going to be limited leading to some of the symptoms you have described.

[Tamgesic]

Should be able to do 13 psi before cut if memory serves me correctly. What exactly are the symptoms if you put your foot down when taking off now?

if you only have a light throttle pplication (i.e. no boost) the car will rev like normal, albeit slowly. as soon as you put your foot down, and boost goes up, it cuts out when boost hits ten psi. the factory boost guage is showing about 10 psi at the same time. taking off the car runs perfectly normally until boost comes on. have already changed the engine bay fuel filter. it really doesnt seem to be giving the symptoms of lack of fuel, until the cut.

[RiceThief]

Is the ex airflow meter the same, try swaping that one over if it is. Boost cut from what i understand is an airflow cut from the air flow meter.

[Tamgesic]

Is the ex airflow meter the same, try swaping that one over if it is. Boost cut from what i understand is an airflow cut from the air flow meter.

tried ex afm and car ran like a legless cow. also the ex afm was slightly different. had 2 round holes in it instead of 1

[enthuzed]

I got jacked off!

Does this mean something different in Oz?

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.p ... jacked+off

That's right, go to the bible for your answer...Urbandictionary is always right. Have you ever checked the entries for your own name. I have and it's bloody hilarious.

I digress. Jacked off, try, pissed off. Same thing.

As for Vulpes regarding your wife, all I can say mate is have a crack! rofl

[enthuzed]

I'm actually curious about this thread now, I have exactly the same problem and haven't resolved it. It's definitely a fuel cut and I've swapped MAP, AFM, ECU and all the usual things before it - plugs, leads, checked timing, dizzy vac, etc, etc.

I noticed the one hole in my import AFM instead of two and the MAP sensor was slightly different. Didn't run any better, in fact worse with the two AFMs I tried. One wouldn't even allow it to idle decently.

I'd like to know whether you can still get full power Tam. I've noticed I can get full acceleration if I press the pedal progressively, like a fair stab on the gas then floor it. If I open it up immediately, that's when it's an issue. The only other time is when it's flat out, which there's plenty there but in my case it will only reach a max of 145 -150kmh because then it starts cutting. How about try that somewhere safe like I did...

I do believe there's an inherent issue with the manifold. I've deliberately richened it up a bit to make sure it's getting plenty of fuel. Truthfully though, I've given up on resolving it. Why? My solution to all this is MPI. Will happen one of these days...

Pisses me off every time it happens though (I've left Jack out of this).

[Tamgesic]

okay, so having narrowed it down to some kind of fuel cut at 9.5 psi, and having read about some starions having a 9.5psi cut, i fitted a fuel cut defender. (which i happened to have lying around from the ex) i tested the wastegate with a bicycle pump and its opening at 10psi. (no idea why, maybe stiff spring)

the first time i drove it after fitting the fcd it went like a cut cat, pulling hard to redline. boost was holding steadily at 10, and the factory boost guage was showing about 9. so i went to permanently wire in the fcd, and with all connections tested, its not working anymore. i am gonna test it tomorrow with bicycle pump, and check out put voltages. anyone know what the fuel cut voltage on a starion is?

bike pump wastegate/mapsensor test procedure:
buy a bike pump.
cut off the valve that goes to the bikes wheel
fit a one way valve (i borrowed one from my intake manifold)
fit a t piece. one side of the t goes to your aftermarket (accurate) boost guage, the other goes to wastegate or map sensor.
pump away and watch the pressure at which wastegate opens. or with ignition on, test your mapsensor to see its reading boost accurately. i am going to do this and measure output voltege from the fcd and the factory mapsensor tomorrow

[Tamgesic]

I'd like to know whether you can still get full power Tam. I've noticed I can get full acceleration if I press the pedal progressively, like a fair stab on the gas then floor it. If I open it up immediately, that's when it's an issue. The only other time is when it's flat out, which there's plenty there but in my case it will only reach a max of 145 -150kmh because then it starts cutting. How about try that somewhere safe like I did...

well i get great power up until i hit exactly 9.5psi. then its the cut. i can rev it freely at half throttle, which makes no boost, but as soon as i get 9.5psi it cuts. which is frustration because i dont even want 9.5 psi. i want 7.5 psi. lke standard.
the wastegate actuator off the ex seems to be about 5 mm shorter than my gsr3, so i imagine if i were to fit it, the wastegate would never open and i would have even more problems. also when i tested it it seemed to open at 13psi. which is even worse.