Heys guys hoping you can help me out here......
Car seemed to be going fine, until this morning when I went out for a drive it started dying when I went around corners.thought it was desperately low on fuel at first but after filling it up it was still dying on me. When driving along the power (engine) would cut out. Was able to put it in second, drop the clutch and keep it goin, just. Seemed to be slightly overheating as well (just over halfway). Also when putting the indicators on they just stayed on, as in they were'nt blinking, they were just lighting up like there wasnt enough power for them to blink. Stereo was also turning off intermittently, especially when braking and coming to a stop.
In addition to this, yesterday when I was putting my interior back in plus new head unit :) it was doing some strange things.Turned the car on a couple of times whilst working on it. Car was running.....then when I turned on the lights, the revs dropped and the car died.Even keeping my foot flat on the accelerator wouldnt keep it running. Took it for a run during the day, came home and parked it up, at night turned car on, turned lights on and it was fine, didnt die on me. :?
Other things that may be related (or not):
- had the power windows fixed the other day
- when on idle the boost gauge is reading about 5mm below 0, as in it reads in vacuum. its also not boosting as high as it should be.
If your still awake after all that and you have any idea what I could narrow some of these problems down to it would be hugely appreciated.
Cheers
Help...revs dying randomly!! among other things...
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- [P] Plates
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- MR Bender
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it would be power problem!
my car does the samething when i start it i have to rev it over 3500rpm to get it to charge!
also check this on you car when you start it .
rev it to 3500rpm and see if the dashlights start to shine brighter witch could mean it will be a charging problem!
dont ask me how to fix it cause i just dont know (i dont drive my car)
otherwise it may be a short in the wiring somewhere!
hope it helps you
my car does the samething when i start it i have to rev it over 3500rpm to get it to charge!
also check this on you car when you start it .
rev it to 3500rpm and see if the dashlights start to shine brighter witch could mean it will be a charging problem!
dont ask me how to fix it cause i just dont know (i dont drive my car)
otherwise it may be a short in the wiring somewhere!
hope it helps you
Bite my shiny metal ass!!!
Russell Coight: Some of the animals are nocturnal, so the best time to see them is at night. Only you can't see them, because it's dark.
Russell Coight: Some of the animals are nocturnal, so the best time to see them is at night. Only you can't see them, because it's dark.
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- racking my brains
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sounds like the alternator isnt charging, and when u put additional load on it, she cuts out, as there isnt enough juice to run the ignition system.
TM magna alternator is an easy conversion, and cheaper than rebuilding your starion alternator.
TM magna alternator is an easy conversion, and cheaper than rebuilding your starion alternator.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
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www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
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www.coxsautomotive.com.au
- MR Bender
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well mine charges fine after i have revd itredzone wrote:sounds like the alternator isnt charging, and when u put additional load on it, she cuts out, as there isnt enough juice to run the ignition system.
TM magna alternator is an easy conversion, and cheaper than rebuilding your starion alternator.
its just when i first start it the alternator doesnt kick in till i rev it.
my dyno guy thinks it has something to do with the battry dash light thing because when i wired the new alternator up i didnt wire the dash light in!
i dont know ?
i can live with it. :)
Bite my shiny metal ass!!!
Russell Coight: Some of the animals are nocturnal, so the best time to see them is at night. Only you can't see them, because it's dark.
Russell Coight: Some of the animals are nocturnal, so the best time to see them is at night. Only you can't see them, because it's dark.
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err, i was replying to the OP. :)
u need a load (ie charge light) to run a bosch alternator without the revving thing.
u need a load (ie charge light) to run a bosch alternator without the revving thing.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
- MR Bender
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yer i know sorry for hi jacking the post!redzone wrote:err, i was replying to the OP. :)
u need a load (ie charge light) to run a bosch alternator without the revving thing.
my bad!
Bite my shiny metal ass!!!
Russell Coight: Some of the animals are nocturnal, so the best time to see them is at night. Only you can't see them, because it's dark.
Russell Coight: Some of the animals are nocturnal, so the best time to see them is at night. Only you can't see them, because it's dark.
you could wire in one of those cheapy copy turbo timers that double as voltmeters and use that to troubleshoot.. if it's at 12 volts or below when the car is running, then the alternator is completely fucked.. if it's charging at 13 or so.. then the alternator is still semi-fucked, but it's not the thing that's causing your car to die..
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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regarding the stereo install, you didn't happen to connect up the earth lead on the stereo to the green wire of the car loom did you? I've seen that happen a few times - the green wire of the car loom is infact for the headlamp dimmer, and when you switch the headlamps on all you're doing is grounding the park lamp circuit (and a fuse should blow).
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