Hey all
Really need to do these before next warrant of fitness so think easiest way will be for me to take the head off and in to engine rebuilders and get them to do it.
Question is anyone have or know where to get new valve stem seals in auckland? Are they the same as the DOHC ones? Also what else will i need?
Was guessing head gasket, what about head studs? Its only my daily so not too keen on doing cambelt and stuff at the mo as cant really afford it and have checked it and it looks ok anyway?
Any hints tips or useful info will be greatly recieved, also if anyone has the seals that they will sell me that be mint.
Cheers
Replacing valve stem seals
If money is tight, there is no need to remove the head, just get the seals, and fit them with the head on. Fill the combustion chamber with compressed air with the piston at TDC, crack the reteainers with a hammer and socket. Make up a setup to lever the retainers down and remove the collets. Fit new stem seals. refit. PS a timing belt and tensioner are cheap insurance compared to the cost of having the head done.
Yeah unfortunately a compressor is still on my list of things to buy.
As for cambelt, thats next on the list when ive got a few more $$$.
The stem seals unfortunately will keep the car off the road as its too smokey on startup to pass a warrant of fitness, the cambelt wont so itl have to wait a lil longer.
As for cambelt, thats next on the list when ive got a few more $$$.
The stem seals unfortunately will keep the car off the road as its too smokey on startup to pass a warrant of fitness, the cambelt wont so itl have to wait a lil longer.
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RiceThief
- my mangina paid for my staz
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Most mechanics will be able to change the stem seals with the head on, which will save you the cost of all the gaskets, especially if you were going to take it to a head rebuilder anyway.
Other option that doesnt involve a compress is filling your cylinder with string to stop the valves from falling in, its abit dodge but does work.
Other option that doesnt involve a compress is filling your cylinder with string to stop the valves from falling in, its abit dodge but does work.
Shit that sounds alot easier, will have to check and see how much they want for thatRiceThief wrote:Most mechanics will be able to change the stem seals with the head on, which will save you the cost of all the gaskets, especially if you were going to take it to a head rebuilder anyway.
Other option that doesnt involve a compress is filling your cylinder with string to stop the valves from falling in, its abit dodge but does work.
Valve stem seals
Get a few quotes , check the hourly rate of the workshop , the job should take between 2 to 3 hours , or less , for a 4g SOHC . For a 4g DOHC I would add maybe another hour or two , to save mark ups on price of parts , supply them . Get a rocker cover gasket , dont forget half moon seals , a fresh set of plugs and valve stem seals . And hope you dont have any drama and good luck .
4Gs Rule
If you pop into Repco I'm fairly certain they do the valve stems by themselves or a headset is cheap enough.
You'll need to bash the retainers with a hammer to free up the collets. If you do one cylinder at a time you won't need string to keep the valves from dropping, all you need to do is make sure the cylinder your working on is at TDC and the valve can drop down and rest against the piston without disappearing on you. Piston no.1 will be at TDC if you align the timing marks up, for pistons 2 & 3 you have to turn the crank 180 degrees and piston 4 you turn it 180 once more.
Be careful when you put the stem seals on as it's fairly easy to wreck them (no gentle hammer work, make sure everything is oiled), you can lower the valve by turning the crank so it's flush with the stem seal seat and turn the crank the opposite direction to bring it back up.
Worked for me, hope this helps.
You'll need to bash the retainers with a hammer to free up the collets. If you do one cylinder at a time you won't need string to keep the valves from dropping, all you need to do is make sure the cylinder your working on is at TDC and the valve can drop down and rest against the piston without disappearing on you. Piston no.1 will be at TDC if you align the timing marks up, for pistons 2 & 3 you have to turn the crank 180 degrees and piston 4 you turn it 180 once more.
Be careful when you put the stem seals on as it's fairly easy to wreck them (no gentle hammer work, make sure everything is oiled), you can lower the valve by turning the crank so it's flush with the stem seal seat and turn the crank the opposite direction to bring it back up.
Worked for me, hope this helps.
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