Brake pads for track use
Brake pads for track use
As I am still perservering with standard brakes at the moment, does any one know any good brake pads for track use?
I am currently running standard bendix pads, but the only last 2-3 track days and sometimes start to glow (the pads only, not the disk).
I am having trouble tracking down decent pads, so any help would be appreciated.
I am currently running standard bendix pads, but the only last 2-3 track days and sometimes start to glow (the pads only, not the disk).
I am having trouble tracking down decent pads, so any help would be appreciated.
Brake stuff
Hi,
the first thing you HAVE to do with the standard brakes is remove the backing plates front and rear. This will stop the discs overheating. You are wasting you time with the "normal" Bendix pads (although Metal Kings hang in there for a while). Talk to Specialised Clutch and Brake (St Marys, Sydney). Phone(02)96238070. They do high quality Mintex M44 club/race compound and others. They have the patterns for the Starion pads so they can make them to suit (yes they make them!).
Also Racebrakes (02)96091101 have full competition pads in stock for the Starion. You will find with the backing plates removed, the right pads and brake fluid the standard brakes will live on the track no problem (probably better than most cars). We used to race at Winton for 300km on the one set of pads. .
cheers,
Mark.
the first thing you HAVE to do with the standard brakes is remove the backing plates front and rear. This will stop the discs overheating. You are wasting you time with the "normal" Bendix pads (although Metal Kings hang in there for a while). Talk to Specialised Clutch and Brake (St Marys, Sydney). Phone(02)96238070. They do high quality Mintex M44 club/race compound and others. They have the patterns for the Starion pads so they can make them to suit (yes they make them!).
Also Racebrakes (02)96091101 have full competition pads in stock for the Starion. You will find with the backing plates removed, the right pads and brake fluid the standard brakes will live on the track no problem (probably better than most cars). We used to race at Winton for 300km on the one set of pads. .
cheers,
Mark.
- StarionChef
- Creme Brulé
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- Location: SYDNEY
Yes of course front and rear. I haven't tried the M44 myself yet. But if setup properly for lap dashes and club stuff they WON'T fade. Des racing in GroupE used to do 20 lap races at Calder where you brake at the end of the main straight from 220KPH for a second gear corner.
Remember the competition brake fluid (very important) and make sure you flush it right through the whole system by bleeding all the brakes. For serious racing we used to bleed the brakes a lot (before every race). More to keep the fluid fresh really.
cheers,
Mark.
Remember the competition brake fluid (very important) and make sure you flush it right through the whole system by bleeding all the brakes. For serious racing we used to bleed the brakes a lot (before every race). More to keep the fluid fresh really.
cheers,
Mark.
- CaptainShiner
- Big Dorifto
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brake fluid
From all that I have been told -
the only difference between dot 4 and 5 is the freezing point. They both have the same boiling point.
If you choose to run silicone you have a number of issues -
1 is you will have to change EVERY seal and gasket in the braking system before changing over to silicone
2 the fluid properties of silicone are not conducive to sustained heavy application and may "go off" causing a low pedal and ultimately total brake failure. There is a technical explanation for all that but thats the laymans version.
I have been chasing this topic for a little while and all information I have obtained says that for circuit work run dot 4, do not use silicone and change the fluid before every meeting, religiously.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Greg
the only difference between dot 4 and 5 is the freezing point. They both have the same boiling point.
If you choose to run silicone you have a number of issues -
1 is you will have to change EVERY seal and gasket in the braking system before changing over to silicone
2 the fluid properties of silicone are not conducive to sustained heavy application and may "go off" causing a low pedal and ultimately total brake failure. There is a technical explanation for all that but thats the laymans version.
I have been chasing this topic for a little while and all information I have obtained says that for circuit work run dot 4, do not use silicone and change the fluid before every meeting, religiously.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Greg
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
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- I love starions
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Brake Fluid
If you don't want to spend a fortune on really expensive brake fluid try Castrol Response, we used it for the Dutton Rally last year and it did fine. If you want to spend more try Castrol SRF (I think it's about $120 for 600ml)
- Cookiemonster
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- my mangina paid for my staz
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Dot 5 is a silicon based fluid where as dot 5.1 is the conventional brake fluid. If you are using dot 5 u have to drain your brake system as silicon and conventional brake fluid doesnt mix. The boiling point for dot3 is 205 degrees with a wet boiling point of 140, dot 5.1 has a boiling point of 260 with a wet boiling point of 180 degrees.
I also have done some research on brake fluids, and CASTROL RESPONSE has the highest dry boiling point of the conventional non-race spec dot 4 fluids.
It performed well at track day outings.
However, MOTUL race spec fluid is now readily available in Sydney, and is a lot better, ie about 550 degrees farenheight. Thats about the same as whats available from AP Racing fluid. The best seems to be NEO SUPERDOT, but I have lost the contact details and so have not had any for some years. If anyone knows who the Sydney agent for NEO is, please post.
It performed well at track day outings.
However, MOTUL race spec fluid is now readily available in Sydney, and is a lot better, ie about 550 degrees farenheight. Thats about the same as whats available from AP Racing fluid. The best seems to be NEO SUPERDOT, but I have lost the contact details and so have not had any for some years. If anyone knows who the Sydney agent for NEO is, please post.
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