Balance shaft removal
Balance shaft removal
Does anyone know where I can get a balance shaft removal kit from for wideblock in Australia? Are they different to the twin cam ones? Does it come with what you need to block the oil holes ect?
Thabks
Thabks
Parting Blue JA Starion
Mercedes W126 420sel
Blue JA Starion (parting)
Silver JA Starion, 45000kms, coilovers
4G63 VR4 cordia
Mercedes W126 420sel
Blue JA Starion (parting)
Silver JA Starion, 45000kms, coilovers
4G63 VR4 cordia
-
- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
I don't know where you could source a kit... But it's pretty easy to do without a kit. If you do a few searches I'm sure the process is pretty well documented on here.
Basically you cut the lower shaft off and just use the snout of it in the oil-pump, and seal the other end with a grub screw. Insert the upper front bearing rotated so it blocks the oil supply hole, and use a 35mm frost plug to seal the hole in the front timing cover. You also have to use a shorted bolt where the balance shaft belt tensions used to attach.
From memory you don't have to do anything about the rear bearings, as they are supplied oil via the hollow center of the shafts themselves, and don't source any from the block directly... But I'm slightly unclear on this and it would be worth confirming.
Basically you cut the lower shaft off and just use the snout of it in the oil-pump, and seal the other end with a grub screw. Insert the upper front bearing rotated so it blocks the oil supply hole, and use a 35mm frost plug to seal the hole in the front timing cover. You also have to use a shorted bolt where the balance shaft belt tensions used to attach.
From memory you don't have to do anything about the rear bearings, as they are supplied oil via the hollow center of the shafts themselves, and don't source any from the block directly... But I'm slightly unclear on this and it would be worth confirming.
-
- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
There are also a couple of schools of thought as to whether you should remove the lower shaft, or just machine the lobes off. The issue is that the length of the shaft, and the presence of a rear bearing provide added support to the oil-pump. I've always just chopped it off, but I think I'll machine the lobes off next time I do one, purely for peace of mind.
Does removing the balance shafts give you any more performance? I could imagine 5 pooftenths of a hp?
Talking to an experienced mitsi mechanic, he said the problem with the balance shafts is that when people replace the cam belt they don't replace the little belt driving the other balance shaft, then it breaks because it's done far to many ks and goes through everything.
Talking to an experienced mitsi mechanic, he said the problem with the balance shafts is that when people replace the cam belt they don't replace the little belt driving the other balance shaft, then it breaks because it's done far to many ks and goes through everything.
Sold - 1987 Mitsubishi Starion GSR V DASH
Current - 1995 Subaru Legacy TT SW
- 1983 Mitsubishi Starion
Current - 1995 Subaru Legacy TT SW
- 1983 Mitsubishi Starion
-
- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
Bingo, that is exactly what happens. The number of people I've had tell me not to worry about the balance shaft bits when I sell them timing bits for a mitsy... Usually I try pretty hard to talk them into it, as it's critical.
The motor in my car has obviously had it break previously, as the alloy casing is smashed out right in that area. Still works fine, but looks pretty ugly, I think I'll replace it while i have it off the road.
The motor in my car has obviously had it break previously, as the alloy casing is smashed out right in that area. Still works fine, but looks pretty ugly, I think I'll replace it while i have it off the road.
I just looked it up......HERE
-
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
The only time I would pull them is if you were building an engine that would see over 8k regularly, due to the high rpm they see.
Steve's widey still has them in and is nice to drive as a result, removing them does not give you any extra hp, all it does is increase vibration & give you a slight decrease in rotating mass similar in effect to a lightened flywheel.
Steve's widey still has them in and is nice to drive as a result, removing them does not give you any extra hp, all it does is increase vibration & give you a slight decrease in rotating mass similar in effect to a lightened flywheel.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Thanks for your replys, I did not want to remove them at first but guy at the machine shop talked me out of it as the bearing holder was damaged when the bearing fell out (some how)
Parting Blue JA Starion
Mercedes W126 420sel
Blue JA Starion (parting)
Silver JA Starion, 45000kms, coilovers
4G63 VR4 cordia
Mercedes W126 420sel
Blue JA Starion (parting)
Silver JA Starion, 45000kms, coilovers
4G63 VR4 cordia
-
- Newcomer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:58 am
- Location: Norway
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests