balance shaft elimination kits
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- I like starions more
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balance shaft elimination kits
hi guys, i'll be messing around in the guts of my starion soon, so i thought i might as well remove the balance shafts while i was at it. i was just wondering where i might be able to find an elimination kit. i've found a few for the later model 4g63s on ebay, but im not sure if they will work on the starion engine.. i know people on here have done it, just wondering how they went about it. cheers
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- I like starions more
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- Big Dorifto
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- nearly postwhore
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frees up a little bit of power at the expense of a little more vibration from the engine. The balance shafts work by eliminating most of the inherent harmonic vibrations an inline 4 cylinder engine has.toms starion wrote:what does it do if you remove the balance shafts???
One could argue that it perhaps is a little more reliable as there are two less parts spinning in an engine, but then it could open up issues like an unsupported oil pump drive etc.
E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | A164A Eterna GSR | 6G72 RWD Conversion Forum
If you are concerned about the oil pump drive you can cut off the shaft after the rear bearing and machine off the counterweight leaving a round rod connecting to the rear bearing This is what I have in my TC motordirtygalant wrote:frees up a little bit of power at the expense of a little more vibration from the engine. The balance shafts work by eliminating most of the inherent harmonic vibrations an inline 4 cylinder engine has.toms starion wrote:what does it do if you remove the balance shafts???
One could argue that it perhaps is a little more reliable as there are two less parts spinning in an engine, but then it could open up issues like an unsupported oil pump drive etc.
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
I'd say the main advantage is eliminating the belt... so it can't break and interfear with the cambelt... that would fuckup a nice and expensive twincamed (-or not) motor!dirtygalant wrote:frees up a little bit of power at the expense of a little more vibration from the engine. The balance shafts work by eliminating most of the inherent harmonic vibrations an inline 4 cylinder engine has.toms starion wrote:what does it do if you remove the balance shafts???
One could argue that it perhaps is a little more reliable as there are two less parts spinning in an engine, but then it could open up issues like an unsupported oil pump drive etc.
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- nearly postwhore
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^^ that would never happen if the balance shaft belt and tensioner bearing were replaced at the same time as the cambelt and tensioner, and that they are done every 10 years/100,000kms. Only reason they snap is because people skip replacing them when the cambelt is changed.
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- racking my brains
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if you leave the lower shaft in (albeit machined as suggested above), you can still potentially have the lower shaft rear bearing spin..
BSE kits do NOT increase power, by the way.. response yes, power no. i prefer to improve response by lightening the flywheel..
BSE kits do NOT increase power, by the way.. response yes, power no. i prefer to improve response by lightening the flywheel..
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How does it decrease engine life?rodney007 wrote:Iv heard that removing the shaft also decreases engine life and is supposed to really only be done on race engines that are rebuilt often..?
The only real effect would be slight vibration and no chance of spinning the bearings(if you remove the shafts completely).
Most people building a new engine, esp without balance shafts would get everything balanced anyway.
The only way it would decrease engine life that i could see would be if the BSE job wasn't done properly, or if the engine already had underlying problems.
vibrations and resonance can destroy anything.. just because it doesn't feel like much to the driver doesn't mean it's not a big deal to the motor..
ever heard of the soldiers marching over the bridge example? read the following as an example of the simple destructive force of resonance if you'd like:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angers_Bridge
mind you, i'm NOT saying that this is the case with balance shaft removals in the 4g63, and I'm not saying that removing them is a good or bad idea.. i'm just saying, don't underestimate the impact of extra vibrations or resonance.
ever heard of the soldiers marching over the bridge example? read the following as an example of the simple destructive force of resonance if you'd like:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angers_Bridge
mind you, i'm NOT saying that this is the case with balance shaft removals in the 4g63, and I'm not saying that removing them is a good or bad idea.. i'm just saying, don't underestimate the impact of extra vibrations or resonance.
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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- G33Kz0r
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Whoa, old post... Anyways:
Those parts do look about right... But you don't actually need a 'kit' to remove the balance shafts.
Use the lower balance shaft, but cut it off, leaving around 20mm protruding from your oil pump. You'll notice the shaft is hollow, this is for oil supply to the shaft bearings. Tap it, and seal it off with a grub screw.
Take the original bearings out, rotate them slightly, and re-insert them. This way, the oil supply hole in the bearing no longer matches up to the one in the block, thus blocking it off and maintaining your oil pressure.
Insert a 35mm frost plug in the front cover, where is upper balance shaft used to protrude to seal this off.
Get a shorter bolt to go where the balance shaft belt tensioner used to go.
Not much more to it from memory. I've done a couple before with no ill effects really noted, both are still running to this day, and it was a few years ago.
Those parts do look about right... But you don't actually need a 'kit' to remove the balance shafts.
Use the lower balance shaft, but cut it off, leaving around 20mm protruding from your oil pump. You'll notice the shaft is hollow, this is for oil supply to the shaft bearings. Tap it, and seal it off with a grub screw.
Take the original bearings out, rotate them slightly, and re-insert them. This way, the oil supply hole in the bearing no longer matches up to the one in the block, thus blocking it off and maintaining your oil pressure.
Insert a 35mm frost plug in the front cover, where is upper balance shaft used to protrude to seal this off.
Get a shorter bolt to go where the balance shaft belt tensioner used to go.
Not much more to it from memory. I've done a couple before with no ill effects really noted, both are still running to this day, and it was a few years ago.
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