motor setups best suited for drifting

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
freetoskate124
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motor setups best suited for drifting

Post by freetoskate124 »

I'm starting to piece together a 4g6x swap and really have no idea where to start. I know I want a wideblock, but have no idea what those came in or how to tell if it's wide or not without measuring it. Any tips for what to look for?
Last edited by freetoskate124 on Mon Nov 16, 2009 3:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
redzone
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Post by redzone »

have a look in our new twin cam section which is located towards the bottom of the forum index page!

basically you need a block which has a measurement of about 330mm centre to centre from the widest two bellhousing bolt holes, as opposed to 310mm of the narrowblocks.
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

Are you planning a big horsepowerbuild? If so, you may be changing the gearbox out and replacing with W85 or RX7 etc? You may need to do some research about adaptors etc between block and box, that may narrow your options or increase them depending what's available.
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Post by Lunacy »

www.projectzerog.com
Look there and all your questions will be answered :beer
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freetoskate124
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Post by freetoskate124 »

I want to do more drifting and autox with it, and the 2.6 isn't really a high-revving engine from what I hear. Big horsepower doesn't really appeal to me because I still want the car to be streetable.

And thanks for that link. Its sure to help.
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Post by Entaran »

Unfortunately drifting and low horsepower don't go together. You need around 260-300kw @ rear wheels to keep them spinning reliably in 3rd and 4th which is where most competitive drifting happens. Also widey's are heavier so that changes the power requirements.

A 4g63 out of a vr4 with a gearbox adapter would be the way to go. Or if you're feeling rich, get a 4g63 out of an evo4+ and get a custom bellhousing done up. The e4+ engines have WAY more "bolt on" bits available. You can check places like buschur racing, slowboy, extremepsi, ffwd etc for gofast bits for twincams.
freetoskate124
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Post by freetoskate124 »

I though that 500 and up counted as "high horsepower", but regardless I can live with 300 or 350. My next problem is sourcing a vr4 and gearbox. I just want to consider all of my options before committing to one set plan. The way I see it, I can either:
1. do a 4g63 swap
2. do a SR20DET swap
3. build a G54B
Are those good options for a machine that will most likely spend its time going sideways while being driven in the spring and summer?
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Post by redzone »

freetoskate124 wrote:I though that 500 and up counted as "high horsepower", but regardless I can live with 300 or 350. My next problem is sourcing a vr4 and gearbox. I just want to consider all of my options before committing to one set plan. The way I see it, I can either:
1. do a 4g63 swap
2. do a SR20DET swap
3. build a G54B
Are those good options for a machine that will most likely spend its time going sideways while being driven in the spring and summer?
A) our dyno's read lower than american ones, and 300kw at the wheels is about 400hp at the wheels, so yeah 450 - 500hp at the fly..

B) you only need about 200kw at the wheels to drift a starion well. drifting isnt about power, it's all about BALLS! power oversteer is all about power..

C) common misconception that the starion boxes are weak, they're not, really. they do however baulk shifting at revs higher than 6K. RX7 boxes shift the best at high rpm i've found, the synchro's are designed for rotary rpm!

D) pm mainstream (kane) on this forum OR sqc, he will give you some good stateside advice on what blocks you can use out of which vehicles available in the USA
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Xentro
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Post by Xentro »

And for your information..

Whenever you see VR4 engine. That is the same as a 6bolt 1G DSM engine.

As for wideblocks.. you can also use a 4g64 bottom end out of a truck.
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Post by Komeuppance »

redzone wrote: A) our dyno's read lower than american ones, and 300kw at the wheels is about 400hp at the wheels, so yeah 450 - 500hp at the fly..
LOL... neglected the part about kw to hp conversion...

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redzone
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Post by redzone »

yeah X 1.34 and all that haha
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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Post by Entaran »

I don't know what kind of coin you're throwing around, but if you want a turnkey motor call Daz @ www.ffwdconnection.com

That company are the absolute best at building 6 bollt 4g63 motors for comp work.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

i like that guy's website
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by Entaran »

thrash wrote:i like that guy's website
He actually talks to you like that too.

"ready to purchase" or "Would you like to purchase" is "Ready to pull the trigger?"

etc.

Daz is the king.
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Post by OLD FART »

redzone wrote:yeah X 1.34 and all that haha
X 1.3405 to be exact :D
I've had mine since 03 07 92
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