It can be done.
:)
CUSTOM EXHAUST MANIFOLD
-
davidbek95
- I've been here before
- Posts: 249
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 7:59 pm
- Location: beautiful QLD (mackay)
reply
who made it looks very good wat about the power steering pump.how much for that,very impressed
regards david
regards david
It's a one off, made from 1 & 3/4 inch cast steam pipe bends.
Tig'ed together and welded to a 1/2 inch steel plate, which was plasma cut out of a sheet.
I made it in about 3 months with access to a machine shop.
It is slightly smaller than the original manifold, with plenty of room for the power steering pump.
Major power increase with the TO-4 on it, less lag and lower engine temps.
I have a JB Starion as well ( stock ), so it's not hard to compare.
Here is a pic showing the building stage.
Tig'ed together and welded to a 1/2 inch steel plate, which was plasma cut out of a sheet.
I made it in about 3 months with access to a machine shop.
It is slightly smaller than the original manifold, with plenty of room for the power steering pump.
Major power increase with the TO-4 on it, less lag and lower engine temps.
I have a JB Starion as well ( stock ), so it's not hard to compare.
Here is a pic showing the building stage.
JA 4g63Dash To4 Intercooled Wolf 3dv4
Jb Standard
EVO 8
Starions since 1993.
Jb Standard
EVO 8
Starions since 1993.
toysrus, I went from a bar and plate to a tube and fin.
Abalistic,
Very nice work there. I have a similar manifold in s/s. is that 1 & 3/4" ID or OD? I think that is a similar pipe size to the one I have, but I haven't fitted it yet (as I am happy with the ported stock one for now). What size is the TO4B? How laggy?
I have another design idea for a custom exhaust manifold that will have even shorter runners and will (theoretically) decrease lag even more. Hopefully I will be able to have it made up one day to prove this design works well.
Abalistic,
Very nice work there. I have a similar manifold in s/s. is that 1 & 3/4" ID or OD? I think that is a similar pipe size to the one I have, but I haven't fitted it yet (as I am happy with the ported stock one for now). What size is the TO4B? How laggy?
I have another design idea for a custom exhaust manifold that will have even shorter runners and will (theoretically) decrease lag even more. Hopefully I will be able to have it made up one day to prove this design works well.
Please register your vehicle details on the AUSTRALIAN STARION REGISTRY <HERE>
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
The pipe is 1 & 1/2 inch ID or 40mm, slightly bigger than the exhaust ports. As U can see in the picture. The TO-4b I have had for over 15 years, It has been on 3 cars in that time, and has had 3 rebuilds. It has out lived the first 2 cars ( Mazda 626's ) and it is now on my JA. It had a rebuild last year, (seals & bearings ) and it was converted to water cooled.
Mick Vine turbos matched that TO-4 to my first Mazda, 2 litre, and would not tell me the mods on the T0-4b. The Mazda was on his Dyno doing 155kw at the wheels with 13 pounds boost with water methanol. So I kept the turbo. Sorry I cannot tell you wheel size or A/R ratios. Next overhaul I will ask what all the sizes are. As for lag, it was a lot less than my JB, but since I have added an intercooler, I would say that it now has a bit more lag at the start, compared to my JB. BUT once it is wound up, it gets to 190 in 4th very quickly.
Mick Vine turbos matched that TO-4 to my first Mazda, 2 litre, and would not tell me the mods on the T0-4b. The Mazda was on his Dyno doing 155kw at the wheels with 13 pounds boost with water methanol. So I kept the turbo. Sorry I cannot tell you wheel size or A/R ratios. Next overhaul I will ask what all the sizes are. As for lag, it was a lot less than my JB, but since I have added an intercooler, I would say that it now has a bit more lag at the start, compared to my JB. BUT once it is wound up, it gets to 190 in 4th very quickly.
JA 4g63Dash To4 Intercooled Wolf 3dv4
Jb Standard
EVO 8
Starions since 1993.
Jb Standard
EVO 8
Starions since 1993.
Thanks for that. I was only asking in order to compare it to mine. I am pleased with the way it has performed so far considering that I have a few more mods that will improve it much more. And I can definitely vouch for the top end performance of a TO4. :D Just need a 3.9+ diff ;)
Please register your vehicle details on the AUSTRALIAN STARION REGISTRY <HERE>
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
very nice manifold. We use that same sorta materials to make 'em around here also. I like to keep the runners as short as possible with minimal bends.
We normally run internal wastegated t3/4 for 350-370whp 1.8 to 2.0L.
They're inexpensive and have a broad torque band. t04b/S-trim/0.48/std t3 turbine wheel.
to4b/v-wheel/0-trim/0.58 if u want more from a straigt t4
lotsa great mitsu combos & hybrids available for a 2.0L tho.
We normally run internal wastegated t3/4 for 350-370whp 1.8 to 2.0L.
They're inexpensive and have a broad torque band. t04b/S-trim/0.48/std t3 turbine wheel.
to4b/v-wheel/0-trim/0.58 if u want more from a straigt t4
lotsa great mitsu combos & hybrids available for a 2.0L tho.
Thanks for that quest.
I have a 60mm front wheel and an O-trim rear with 0.70 a/r. It makes boost from 2,200rpm and am pleased with it so far.
I have a 60mm front wheel and an O-trim rear with 0.70 a/r. It makes boost from 2,200rpm and am pleased with it so far.
Please register your vehicle details on the AUSTRALIAN STARION REGISTRY <HERE>
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
1 x 3.2T
1 x 2.8T
3 x 2.6T's
1 x 2.0T
-
StarionChef
- Creme Brulé
- Posts: 744
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 2:38 pm
- Location: SYDNEY
I feel there's way too much hype about custom manifolds, Ive seen alot of good ideas and theories, but no A/B comparisons to test out these designs.
A equal lenth manifold is usually designed with the idea that the exhaust wheel will be hit evenly by each cyl, thus creating a smooth fast spool up.
Runners should be the same diameter so they dont create a restcriction, slowing the air, and reducing pressure, adding to lag.
Length is important, as short runners can have a strangling effect on the motor, reducing its breathing capacity. The motor must be able to flow a given volume of air befor reaching the compressor housing. Its a common fact that longer runners aid top end power for this reason.
If the runners are free of sharp bends, and are of the correct diameter, air speeds will be greater than that of a stock manifold.
I would prefer a manifold with longer, free flowing runners to promote higher power in the upper rev range, as longer than standard, but fatser flowing runners, would derease lag due to increased air speed and volume.
Some jap manufacturers, such as trust, belive in using split pulse runners/ exhaust housings over the use of equal length manifolds.
it's worth looking at these jap manifolds, as these guys have put millions into development, compared to manifolds based on theory alone.
If you do some research and understand the basics of air flow through a motor, you can have a good idea of what would work better, and what may just do the same as the stocker.
My advise is to stick with the stock manifold until you've tweeked every other avenue, unless ofcourse you can make one yourself, then go for it. They can be made for a few hundred without drama.
A equal lenth manifold is usually designed with the idea that the exhaust wheel will be hit evenly by each cyl, thus creating a smooth fast spool up.
Runners should be the same diameter so they dont create a restcriction, slowing the air, and reducing pressure, adding to lag.
Length is important, as short runners can have a strangling effect on the motor, reducing its breathing capacity. The motor must be able to flow a given volume of air befor reaching the compressor housing. Its a common fact that longer runners aid top end power for this reason.
If the runners are free of sharp bends, and are of the correct diameter, air speeds will be greater than that of a stock manifold.
I would prefer a manifold with longer, free flowing runners to promote higher power in the upper rev range, as longer than standard, but fatser flowing runners, would derease lag due to increased air speed and volume.
Some jap manufacturers, such as trust, belive in using split pulse runners/ exhaust housings over the use of equal length manifolds.
it's worth looking at these jap manifolds, as these guys have put millions into development, compared to manifolds based on theory alone.
If you do some research and understand the basics of air flow through a motor, you can have a good idea of what would work better, and what may just do the same as the stocker.
My advise is to stick with the stock manifold until you've tweeked every other avenue, unless ofcourse you can make one yourself, then go for it. They can be made for a few hundred without drama.
Ford G6ET 458wkws
I have discovered today that my manifold has a crack in it around one of the welds (from the #4 exh)... and i'm wondering what i should do. I have not had any mods to the head but wouldnt mind a bit better flow (it feels restricted at top end). The manifold is custom in the first place (to go on the vr4 to the td05) so i'm wondering if something like that can be fixed effectively or if it is worth getting another one made. Any ideas?
Steve.
Steve.
That was one of the reasons I had a go at making a custom mainifold.
The Stock one kept on cracking, and it's not hard to see why.
The outer runners on cylinders 1 and 4 are longer than 2 and 3, and the exhaust gases are not piped to the Turbo as good as they could be.
The exhaust gases from all 4 ports collide into each other just below the turbo, they are not deflected up into it. This creates a hotter region in that area compared to the rest of the mainifold, and thats why it cracks there.
I'm sure Mitsubishi had a much better setup they could of used, but ease of manufacture made them go for the one piece cast version that Starions have now. Besides that, they were getting the power output they required, they were not chasing for more, like all of us.
A
:D
The Stock one kept on cracking, and it's not hard to see why.
The outer runners on cylinders 1 and 4 are longer than 2 and 3, and the exhaust gases are not piped to the Turbo as good as they could be.
The exhaust gases from all 4 ports collide into each other just below the turbo, they are not deflected up into it. This creates a hotter region in that area compared to the rest of the mainifold, and thats why it cracks there.
I'm sure Mitsubishi had a much better setup they could of used, but ease of manufacture made them go for the one piece cast version that Starions have now. Besides that, they were getting the power output they required, they were not chasing for more, like all of us.
A
:D
JA 4g63Dash To4 Intercooled Wolf 3dv4
Jb Standard
EVO 8
Starions since 1993.
Jb Standard
EVO 8
Starions since 1993.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 43 guests