What's the theory behind this bit of advice? I thought it was better to have a few thick cables going from the battery to a few spots on the chassis, to eliminate a single point of failure?panda wrote:try & use as few as possible chassis grounding points. By that I mean its OK to connect 10 lugs under one bolt into the chassis.
Rewiring the track car - any wiring gurus out there?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
I think he's meaning the earths from all the engine bay wiring loom etc. Having them all on one excellent earth, rather than having them spread out all over the place minimises the risk of one random one being bad, and causing all sorts of electrical mayhem.thrash wrote:What's the theory behind this bit of advice? I thought it was better to have a few thick cables going from the battery to a few spots on the chassis, to eliminate a single point of failure?panda wrote:try & use as few as possible chassis grounding points. By that I mean its OK to connect 10 lugs under one bolt into the chassis.
Do you mean a few earth cables going off the negative battery terminal? I havn't heard of that before, other than the standard cable going to the chassis then the block.
- panda
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- Location: Mount Gambier, South Australia
Earthing is a subject that could be debated forever.
Personally I don't trust the conductivity of the metal in the body of any motor vehicle to provide a garanteed earth return to the battery, especially when the car body gets a few years of weathering on it. Thats why I prefer to use a minimal number of connections to the body. This is not so crital in areas like the lights, etc. but in areas where information is collected by sensors for the engine management system, thats where the wiring & earthing is so important. I have even used shielded cable from the CAS to the ECU to prevent false triggering.
Sorry if I confused some of you, but I'm not suggesting a big pile of wires all connected to the battery negative terminal, I'm simply saying try to reduce the number of connections to the body.
Also bonding the engine to the chassis with heavy cables is essential, preferably one each side of the motor in case one gets a poor connection.
panda
Personally I don't trust the conductivity of the metal in the body of any motor vehicle to provide a garanteed earth return to the battery, especially when the car body gets a few years of weathering on it. Thats why I prefer to use a minimal number of connections to the body. This is not so crital in areas like the lights, etc. but in areas where information is collected by sensors for the engine management system, thats where the wiring & earthing is so important. I have even used shielded cable from the CAS to the ECU to prevent false triggering.
Sorry if I confused some of you, but I'm not suggesting a big pile of wires all connected to the battery negative terminal, I'm simply saying try to reduce the number of connections to the body.
Also bonding the engine to the chassis with heavy cables is essential, preferably one each side of the motor in case one gets a poor connection.
panda
Dreams have no limits.
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
nothing beats a good earth...
once discovered alot of crap earthsbolted to the subframe behind the rear seat of a starion for stereo shit/fuel pump etc. ran a 2 guage earth from the battery -ve to 50mm within the said crap earth point/ cleaned the contact point as well as re lugging them.
immediately saw a .5V increase in potential at that point... which is a few l/min of fuel pump flow, not to mention lower current flow to whatever it was feeding.
once discovered alot of crap earthsbolted to the subframe behind the rear seat of a starion for stereo shit/fuel pump etc. ran a 2 guage earth from the battery -ve to 50mm within the said crap earth point/ cleaned the contact point as well as re lugging them.
immediately saw a .5V increase in potential at that point... which is a few l/min of fuel pump flow, not to mention lower current flow to whatever it was feeding.
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
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