chunkhead wrote:I f you spend a few hours actually reading the thread (It's huge) the guys have this to show car perfection. This process works because paint technology has now caught up with spray painters. Why do we pay $4000-5000 for a decent spray job when the yanks can do a full candy apple pearl for under a grand? We are being ripped off!
This process IS working for thousands of people and many paint shop owners have also tried this and have said "This is going to put us out of business!" (Read the thread)
You can spray it, but that attracts dust and all sorts of crap. Just roll it on like they do with the boats it's designed for!
:beer
I think most of that 4-5k goes in the prep work, you can get paints and primers and supplies etc for full car from $300 and up. about 2k-2.5k is what i plan to spend on supplies for my good car. the rest is gone in the $20 - $whatever per hour of work on the car.
and from what i can see the prep is much the same even if your rolling on the paint. so you can still save a HELL of a lot by doing all the prep yourself and dropping it off for the top coat.
The main advantage of the roll on is its clean and easy enough that anyone can do it. and the paint is cheap. not sure how much better the quality is compared to auto paint of the same price?
Sigve_B wrote:Not to be a sceptic or anything but do u guys realy think the black car in the pics looks good? that orange skin is very bad if u ask me ?!
Wy dont do the same job just with a cheap compressor and a cheap spraygun? the result is clearly better then this..
Dont meen to offend anyone!
I agree, I would not be happy with that on my car but I did like the level of gloss and it looks like the paint would be able to give a good result. Its clear to see its purely from a lack of prep work.
No offense intended from me also.. there's nothing stopping him contunuing to rub that back till the crows feet or whatever are gone.
chunkhead wrote:This is exactly the shit I'm talking about...
I never said u couldt get a glossy finish but these pics don`t tell u shit about orange skin or anything like that just shows that the car is glossy :roll:
And just because somebody said its the best don`t make it the best, if u belive that buy a electric turbo LOL no offence but i seen alot of good roller jobs but no one can compare to a cheap spray paint when u get close to the car and study the finish...
I would like to see some pics with a rolled car used as a mirror to an sharp edged object then u can tel if its a mirror like finish :D
Like this : http://guidetodetailing.com/imageview.php?imageId=84
I did 7 coats I only got few tiny bubbles. I used regular mineral spirts on mine and the paint rock hard after just a few days. The black is hard to do but after testing I figured out that after you do the sixth coat wet sand lightly with 600 grit and do one more singlecoat then go straight to 2000 grit. Because if you don't and wet sand too much and into the next layer of paint it will leave little shiny rings in the paint that you can't buff out. I polished it with the turtle wax polish with the buffer then hand buffed with meguiars mirror gaze #7.
If i can get a cheap spray job half as good as that, let me know. And another thing, is the cheap spray job going to last 10 years with out fading, cracking or peeling? Can it repel bird shit and most other chemicals? What about repairs? Can I just sand back the damaged bit and respray over the small damaged area without the need to do the whole panel?
Brightside can! :beer
Skeptics are people who are afraid of change. Try it, then make judgement! :pimp
The Red on that car does not have as much gloss as teh Brightside paint.
He started out with the cheaper paint in red. then swaped to white. then swaped to brightside white as he was not as happy with the gloss of the others. He loves the bright side tho
[quote="JPC"]Ok - finally found the digital camera! Here are some pics of nose header panel painted with a roller using Brightside. I used the 'roll and tip' method using 'Steel Grey' Brightside with a 100mm roller to apply the paint and tipped with another 100mm roller. I picked Steel Grey as the colour because it's closest to the existing colour (silver).
A few things to note:
1. As this was an experiment, I made no attempt to rectify existing scratches, dents, etc in the panel.
2. Preparation was only sanding with 360 grit followed by wax & grease remover.
3. After the first coat, I wet-sanded with 400 grit and then 600.
4. After the second coat, I wet-sanded with 800 grit and then 1200
5. After the third and final coat (so far), I did nothing except let it dry, so the pics are as it is straight off the roller, straight out of the can, no sanding, no compounding, no buffing, no polishing. I didn't even give it a wipe before taking the photos.
6. The rainbow and banding effects are artifacts of the camera and image size changing. Apologies for the lighting - I was trying different methods to capture the finish.
6. The pics look slightly better than it really is.
I just rolled a coat onto my bonnet and i am dam impressed, apart from the bubbles. my fult no doubt..
What kind of roller do you use? and
How much do you thin the paint?
Id like to get the next few coats on nicely.
Ive just done both front guards and header panel and headlight covers in largo blue and its come up nice. Other than a few hairs and bits of dust from my dusty garage which should come out with the 1st wetsand. Will get some pics up 2moro.
Rallyant wrote:what roller did you use? where did you get it from?
did you thin the paint? how much?
I dont want bubbles again :(
I used a 4" (100mm) high density foam roller (about $5), from the boat shop where I bought the paint. These are usually sold in paint shops as being for a 'smooth, glossy finish'. The one I used is straight cut at one end, and rounded at the other.
I didn't thin the paint at all, but apparently you can get very good results by thinning a bit (say 5-10%). I was going to grab some of the Interlux thinner, but the guy at the boat shop told me not to bother, just use turps.
Did you 'tip' after you rolled? After rolling (as soon as possible) you need to go over the paint *very lightly* with either a foam brush or another roller (without paint on it) - this pops all the bubbles and lets the paint self-level.
Starion nutter since 1988...
1983 JA, 1984 JA, 1985 JB (all rego'd, all running :D )
Did you 'tip' after you rolled? After rolling (as soon as possible) you need to go over the paint *very lightly* with either a foam brush or another roller (without paint on it) - this pops all the bubbles and lets the paint self-level.
AHHHhhhh i theres ther problem.. i thought about doing that, with another brush to pop all the bubbles..
roller sounds the same. I got mine from bunnings. UNI brand i think it was.
I also thought about using turps instead of my thinners. according to the tin thats one of the ingredient's anyway.
Ill see how i go with coat # 2 tonight.
also whats the details of the shop you got teh paint from? much cheaper than the boat shop i went to :(
do they have a website?
that orange skin is very bad if u ask me ?!
