just how hot do things get under the bonnet?
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just how hot do things get under the bonnet?
my exhaust and backbox is scruffy, as are the hard intake pipes under the bonnet. Oh and the cam cover.
Question is, how hot do these places get? Can't be that hot surely?
Reason I ask is I have an abundance of high temp BBQ paint :) matt black to tidy up the exhaust and backbox (not the nice shiny tail pipe though :p ) and intake pipes, but everyones like either:
oooh, that will flake, its not resistant enough, you need engine paint (at 3 times the price)
ooooh you dont wanna do them black, you'll lose all your power, black retains heat, oooh you need to spray them silver, never do anything black :D (but black looks sooooo much cooler)
I know its not a huge issue but does anyone actually have some real advice? :)
Question is, how hot do these places get? Can't be that hot surely?
Reason I ask is I have an abundance of high temp BBQ paint :) matt black to tidy up the exhaust and backbox (not the nice shiny tail pipe though :p ) and intake pipes, but everyones like either:
oooh, that will flake, its not resistant enough, you need engine paint (at 3 times the price)
ooooh you dont wanna do them black, you'll lose all your power, black retains heat, oooh you need to spray them silver, never do anything black :D (but black looks sooooo much cooler)
I know its not a huge issue but does anyone actually have some real advice? :)
- Starion_Turbo
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Re: just how hot do things get under the bonnet?
chiefbrody wrote:ooooh you dont wanna do them black, you'll lose all your power, black retains heat, oooh you need to spray them silver, never do anything black :D (but black looks sooooo much cooler)
I know its not a huge issue but does anyone actually have some real advice? :)
Black is actually the best colour to dissipate heat, that's why when you buy alloy heatsinks they are all black, its a proven fact.
black will draw in heat in direct sunlight but were dealing with under bonnet here.
Last edited by Starion_Turbo on Thu Apr 19, 2007 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
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- Woodwide
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I once used NORMAL paint on the valve cover, and yes it did become sticky every now and then but still the heat didn't worry the normal paint too much. The BBQ paint is fine for valve cover and intake side. I also used normal paint to paint the front valve cover on my old JA (I painted a Mitsi badge) and that was fine, never got hot.
Hope that helps.
OH and exhaust places ALWAYS spray your exhaust with a black engine spray can to make it look neater before it leaves if they made it with mild steel.
Hope that helps.
OH and exhaust places ALWAYS spray your exhaust with a black engine spray can to make it look neater before it leaves if they made it with mild steel.
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cheers dudes, thats mucho help :D
BBQ paint it is for the engine.
Im wrapping the exhaust, but its just the backbox I wanted to paint. its stainless, but covered in overspray, waxoyl, etc etc. and it would look ghetto LOL I might just give it a go and see what happens. Or get off my lazy arse and scrub it all clean :D
Ta
BBQ paint it is for the engine.
Im wrapping the exhaust, but its just the backbox I wanted to paint. its stainless, but covered in overspray, waxoyl, etc etc. and it would look ghetto LOL I might just give it a go and see what happens. Or get off my lazy arse and scrub it all clean :D
Ta
- jakobsladderz
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I got an epoxy based paint which I have used on some studio lights (upwards of 150°C) and electrical panels without a problem. I haven't got it in front of me but it was a satin finish and on the packet said allow 24 hours to dry and 3 weeks to fully cure.. Chucked it in the oven to cure for an hour or so at ~80°C after it had dried (day or so after spraying) and ended up with a finish very similar to powdercoating - not too shiny, very tough (screws only mar the finish if done up tight) and quite scratch resistant. Got it from a local auto parts store.
That'd be perfect for non-exhaust related engine bits I'd say.
For exhaust work, go ceramic coating (expensive) or exhaust rated spray but the turbo housing and bits close to it get to 5-600°C so nothing's going to last too well..
That'd be perfect for non-exhaust related engine bits I'd say.
For exhaust work, go ceramic coating (expensive) or exhaust rated spray but the turbo housing and bits close to it get to 5-600°C so nothing's going to last too well..
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JA Starion - Mechanic's Training and on-road EFI testing laboratory.
JA Starion - Mechanic's Training and on-road EFI testing laboratory.
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