remote thermostat housing

[S0LJAH]

ok everyone knows you need to do mods to the twincam head for the water oulet round the back of the head
i am taking the factory thermostat housing off (well the engine i bought never came with one to start) and then will be running a pipe round the corner and under the inlet manifold

my question is what thermostat housing can i use on this pipe that will work?
do i need one which will specifically fit a vr4 thermostat in it correctly or are the shapes pretty universal?if not i assume i just need the outside ring diameter to be the same
i take it i just get flanges made on the end of both pipes to fit to whatever thermostat housing i get?
what can i mount it too?would rather not just have it supported by the 2 pipes

keen to hear what other people have done, see pictures, advice etc

seems to be everything else covered except this

cheers guys

[OLD FART]

Remove the rear housing & install a new welch plug & remove the w/p in the front of the head 4 the thermo housing

[MrBishi]

The main problem with using a remote thermostat housing is this;
Normal operation of the thermostat allows the engine to heat up when cold before opening to allow the heated water through the radiator to cool. Using a remote t/s allows a pocket of cool water to sit between the heated block water and the closed t/s. It doesn't open till this cool pocket heats up - meanwhile the block water is now ultra hot and will boil in the radiator when the thermostat finally opens.

A hole in the themostat can solve this problem, but it reduces the effectiveness of the thermostat design.

[S0LJAH]

Remove the rear housing & install a new welch plug & remove the w/p in the front of the head 4 the thermo housing

have heard bad storys about this people cooking engines and warping heads etc so not keen to go down that route
will keep the water flow as it was meant to be from factory

is that the only way it will work mr bishi?
if thats what ill have to do then i guess ill have to do it
would be better than having it come out the front im sure

[cheaterparts]

A hole in the themostat can solve this problem, but it reduces the effectiveness of the thermostat design.

the first magna efi manifold that I modified for rear wheel drive had an inline thermostat I used 2 sigma thermo housings machined a small counter bore to fit the themostat - drilled a 4 mm hole in the themostat so some water would pass ( to heat the unit )

that is still in service in a turboed galant with no problems the temp still sits on the thermostat
it might be a little slower to come up to temp ( bugger all difference though )

Remove the rear housing & install a new welch plug & remove the w/p in the front of the head 4 the thermo housing

have heard bad storys about this people cooking engines and warping heads etc so not keen to go down that route
will keep the water flow as it was meant to be from factory

I had looked at using the front welsh plug as the top rad hose outlet have you done this OLD FART both the welsh plug and the std water outlet look to be at the same height in the head
and my thoughts were that it should be water drain off would be higher when mounted is a rear wheel drive
with less chance of air locks

cheater

[redzone]

some toyota 4A engines use a remote thermostat housing, u may want to have a look at a wreckers, AE82's i think they were.

i wouldnt use the front welch plug as a water outlet, as it will not allow good water frow to the back of the block/head. the inlet and outlets end up too close, and as we all know, water will take the easiest path.. remote thermo hsg with drilled hole in the thermo is the way i roll..

[S0LJAH]

yea have heard of warped heads etc as the water simply doesnt want to go to the back of the engine


sounds like the hole in the thermostat is the way to go
so around 4-5mm?


so do i get a thermostat for the housing?id have to find out flow rates and temps etc then wouldnt i?

[OLD FART]

A hole in the themostat can solve this problem, but it reduces t

Remove the rear housing & install a new welch plug & remove the w/p in the front of the head 4 the thermo housing

I had looked at using the front welsh plug as the top rad hose outlet have you done this OLD FART both the welsh plug and the std water outlet look to be at the same height in the head
and my thoughts were that it should be water drain off would be higher when mounted is a rear wheel drive
with less chance of air locks

cheater

Ihave seen this mod on a 2.4 waiting 2 b installed The owner is a very switched on member .Iwill leave it 2 him if he wants 2 elaborate

[igottasicjb]

the advice my engine builder gave to me is make the coolant come out of the same end of the head as it did factory. the starion cooling system was designed so that water from the pump flows through the block then up through the back of the head then foward exiting at the front. They did this by making the coolant galleries between the head and the block smaller at the front and larger at the back thus promoting the desired flow. If the is no other solution than changing the position, it would be worthwhile pulling the head off and have a workshop weld up and then resize the holes to correct the flow. The problem i had was my sonata manifold had the thermostat at the back of the head and therfore i was running a risk of cooking the front of the head, hence the reason i'm building a new MPI.

[TWIMCAM BOY]

hey guys
i run a ae82 remote t/s with two 3mm holes in it. i haven t started the car yet but well be doin so end of this week so ill let you s know if it works well or not!
ill post some pics of it this afternoon.

[S0LJAH]

cheers mate pics of your setup would be great :D
what thermostat are you running in it?an ae82 one or a vr4/sarion etc one?

the advice my engine builder gave to me is make the coolant come out of the same end of the head as it did factory.

my engine is a complete vr4 engine block and head so that why i want to have the water exiting at the rear of the head, it was done that way from factory for a reason
exiting out the front just seems as though it could create further headaches down the road and id also have to pull apart my engine now after its just been put back together

[cheaterparts]

Ihave seen this mod on a 2.4 waiting 2 b installed The owner is a very switched on member .Iwill leave it 2 him if he wants 2 elaborate

once it up and going it would be good to get a report it
as there are quite a few guys that look at fitting up twin cams
mine is a long term project and I also wont to remove the CAS from the rear of the head

cheater

[S0LJAH]

hey guys
i run a ae82 remote t/s with two 3mm holes in it. i haven t started the car yet but well be doin so end of this week so ill let you s know if it works well or not!
ill post some pics of it this afternoon.

hey mate iv been looking at the 4age remote thermostat housing setups and they appear to have a sensor line on them disgarding the need for holes to be drilled in the thermostat itsefl to allow flow?or have you removed the sensor line?

like this?


so this stlye would need to be set up pre engine i.e inbetween the radiator and the water pump, and would controll the flow inot the engine rather than the flow out of the engine?
and how do you ensure flow coming out of the back of the head to the sensor line?

now the other option i can see is, i run two vr4 thermostat housings back to back in a line from the rear of the head to my top radiator hose?with a couple of small flow holes in it?this stlye would control flow out of the head and into the radiator rather than the other way round

please give me feed back on both of these ideas as im new to working out custom water cooling setups and there may be glaring flaws in some of my work

[scum]

http://www.pbase.com/scum2/inbox

[quest]

remote thermostat housing repositioned for a FWD to RWD corolla conversion

taken from this page
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88