I blocked my open vacuum lines properly (with self-tapping screws). Got in car, and for the first time since I"ve owned the car (over a year), the factory digital boost guage lit up, and worked perfectly. I was overwelmed with joy.
However the guage changed its mind last night, and stopped working again *sigh*
The car was running great on 91 octane, so I thought beh I'll treat it to 96 octane. This was NOT a good idea. Power up high is flat, it idles fine, driving is fine 90% of the time, but every once and a while just cruising at low revs the engine starts to splutter, going up hills it makes a large bang noise and cuts out - I'm wondering now if 96 octane fuel has been my problem all along, should changing to 96 octane cause this kind of behaviour??
I can list 5000 things I love about the car, but right now I'm semi stressed about my 'paint-dust' issue, and the car is quite an ass to drive at the moment - I'm hoping this is just the fuel, in the past this pop caused black smoke - so it appears its just not burning - so may be an ignition issue grrr - see what you lot think, and what happens when I can afford to put some 91 in there. (Yes I have a $2 coin, and thats all I have)
Car is: 85 Sirius 8v SOHC JET redtop, TC05-12A turbo, NGK Iridiums and Spitfire 8MM performance leads - used for about 500Km before car went off the road again, leads are still shiny red like new. Everything else is stock.
Also, got it back from panel beaters. BUT it has small paint dust on it, I was told to give it a light polish, after really putting all my weight in to it, I've done half the roof in 3 hours.
Is there anyway faster to get this crap off without melting my actual roof-paint?
Weird Things Again
- SpidersWeb
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Weird Things Again
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
The only thing i can think of is when you put in higher octane fuel, it may act kind of like a fuel system cleaner and dislodge any shit thats been floating around either in the tank, fuel filter, manifold etc. this could cause slight blockage somewhere. Sometimes a good highway burn fixes this problem, maybe even one of those fuel system cleaners as well. Might have also been unlucky and got a dirty batch of fuel. how old is ur fuel filter? i replaced mine a while ago and i swear it was the original one.
Steve
Steve
If you got it back from the panel beaters with dust on it, take it back and tell THEM to fix it.. why is it your problem?
What kind of paint is it? With acrylic you can use some 1200 wet and dry which will clean it off quite quickly. I don't know if you can do the same with 2 pack though as i've never worked with it.
What kind of paint is it? With acrylic you can use some 1200 wet and dry which will clean it off quite quickly. I don't know if you can do the same with 2 pack though as i've never worked with it.
- SpidersWeb
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Na he did it pretty cheap and on BarterCard, so I didn't actually pay any cash, but good news anyway.
Got the paint off using basic Cut Cream, just a quick whipe and she came off. Car just needs to be polished and waxed now.
All shiny now.
Problem appears to be air leak with engine.
Since the MAP sensor stopped working again, the aftermarket boost guage reads completely different values now. It never goes over 4psi, when it used to read 9psi, and instead of 20InHG it reads 10InHG when cruising.
This indicates to me, I fixed the leak and MAP started working, then it sprung another leak. Its very loud, and the car only splutters if its just finished boosting (e.g. the hole has been opened by boost pressure, then stays open until heavy vac). Its a prick. I think its the connector that goes between the X-Over pipe and the ECI body, its all frail and coming apart.
Proving to be very very annoying.
Also MAP and Aftermarket boost guages read differently. So I'm thinking its probably a leak in the line from the ECI TB to the MAP sensor, but I can't find it >:| Can I just unplug the MAP sensor, doesn't seem to do anything anyway? In 12 months of ownership, its worked for 2 hours.
If I remove the pipe, and block the ECI TB nipple, it should work hmm
thinking thinking
Got the paint off using basic Cut Cream, just a quick whipe and she came off. Car just needs to be polished and waxed now.
All shiny now.
Problem appears to be air leak with engine.
Since the MAP sensor stopped working again, the aftermarket boost guage reads completely different values now. It never goes over 4psi, when it used to read 9psi, and instead of 20InHG it reads 10InHG when cruising.
This indicates to me, I fixed the leak and MAP started working, then it sprung another leak. Its very loud, and the car only splutters if its just finished boosting (e.g. the hole has been opened by boost pressure, then stays open until heavy vac). Its a prick. I think its the connector that goes between the X-Over pipe and the ECI body, its all frail and coming apart.
Proving to be very very annoying.
Also MAP and Aftermarket boost guages read differently. So I'm thinking its probably a leak in the line from the ECI TB to the MAP sensor, but I can't find it >:| Can I just unplug the MAP sensor, doesn't seem to do anything anyway? In 12 months of ownership, its worked for 2 hours.
If I remove the pipe, and block the ECI TB nipple, it should work hmm
thinking thinking
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
- SpidersWeb
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- Posts: 1984
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- Location: Wellington, NZ
- Powerslave
- Mine is bigger than yours
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- Location: Brisbane , Queensland
Try to get in the habit of looking at every post , here's the identical problem and possible solutions => http://austarion.com/forums/view ... =8843#8843
- SpidersWeb
- postwhore!
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 2:29 am
- Location: Wellington, NZ
Ok can hear an air sucking noise near the air box. It has to be either the Turbo -> IC pipe, or the airbox -> turbo pipe.
AirBox->Turbo leak would make the car run lean, as the turbo will suck through the crack instead of blow out. So its not the accordian pipe according to theory (unless my car splutters from running lean maybe??)
Turbo->IC leak would make car run rich.
So going to pull both off and have a geezer. I covered both pipes in soapy water, but obviously this only shows holes on the top 180 deg of the pipe.
God damn this is so painfully annoying
Time of ownership 1.5 years
Time driven with everything working: 30-45 minutes
I'm wondering if I should fix the car, or shoot myself in the nuts.
AirBox->Turbo leak would make the car run lean, as the turbo will suck through the crack instead of blow out. So its not the accordian pipe according to theory (unless my car splutters from running lean maybe??)
Turbo->IC leak would make car run rich.
So going to pull both off and have a geezer. I covered both pipes in soapy water, but obviously this only shows holes on the top 180 deg of the pipe.
God damn this is so painfully annoying
Time of ownership 1.5 years
Time driven with everything working: 30-45 minutes
I'm wondering if I should fix the car, or shoot myself in the nuts.
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
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