Balance Shaft elimination kit
Balance Shaft elimination kit
Right ive searched and couldnt find wat im after. Has anyone found a place that sells this kit, and a price on it?
Cheers
Cheers
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- my mangina paid for my staz
- Posts: 2129
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:23 pm
- Location: Brisbane
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/balanceshaft.html
This is the site, there are hp gains from removing them at the expensive of nvh.
This is the site, there are hp gains from removing them at the expensive of nvh.
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- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
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Its an easy as job if you've got the motor apart.
1) Remove left-hand balance shaft and put a 35mm cup frost plug in the front timing cover where it used to stick out.
2) Tap the front bearing out of the block, rotate it 90deg and tap it back in. This seals off the oil supply that used to go to the left-hand balance shaft, so you'll still have oil-pressure in the motor.
3) Remove the balance shaft belt tensioner and put a bolt in where it used to be. Make sure the bolt isn't so long it bottoms out.
That takes car of the left-hand one, now for the right hand one. The right hand one is geared off the oil-pump, and there is some debate about the best method of removing it. Quite a few people I've spoken to say you need to leave the whole balance shaft in, as it supports the oil pump gear. You have the lobes machined off it and have it balanced so it effectively does nothing, and run it just as usual.
Personally, i went a different method, I'd done it on one motor before and not struck any problems, so i think its alright, I'm not an expert by any means though.
1) Remove the balance shaft from the oil pump, its es easy as putting it in a vice and undoing the nut on the front of the oil-pump gear.
2) Cut the balance shaft with whatever tool you have handy, leave it long enough so about 20mm will protrude past the back of the oil-pump. Thats quite important, as you'll need to put that 20mm in a vice to you can torque up the nut on the front of the oil pump again.
3) Get the cut end of the balance shaft cleaned up in a lathe, so its nice and flat and balanced, you'll notice the balance shaft is actually hollow. The oil flows through it to supply the rear bearing. This brings us to step 4.
4) tap the hole in the end of the cut balance shaft, and insert a bolt, or a grub screw, with some master pipe sealant or similar. This will block the oil passageway, so you'll still have oil pressure in the motor.
Reassemble the oil pump, and Bob's yer uncle, you'll have a motor that vibrates more, but you'll never have to worry about running a balance shaft bearing again, or tensioning that belt properly so it doesn't whine.
I'd put up some pics i have of the entire process, but some bugger has pinched the vid-card out of my other rig, so i cant access them at the moment.. alas.
1) Remove left-hand balance shaft and put a 35mm cup frost plug in the front timing cover where it used to stick out.
2) Tap the front bearing out of the block, rotate it 90deg and tap it back in. This seals off the oil supply that used to go to the left-hand balance shaft, so you'll still have oil-pressure in the motor.
3) Remove the balance shaft belt tensioner and put a bolt in where it used to be. Make sure the bolt isn't so long it bottoms out.
That takes car of the left-hand one, now for the right hand one. The right hand one is geared off the oil-pump, and there is some debate about the best method of removing it. Quite a few people I've spoken to say you need to leave the whole balance shaft in, as it supports the oil pump gear. You have the lobes machined off it and have it balanced so it effectively does nothing, and run it just as usual.
Personally, i went a different method, I'd done it on one motor before and not struck any problems, so i think its alright, I'm not an expert by any means though.
1) Remove the balance shaft from the oil pump, its es easy as putting it in a vice and undoing the nut on the front of the oil-pump gear.
2) Cut the balance shaft with whatever tool you have handy, leave it long enough so about 20mm will protrude past the back of the oil-pump. Thats quite important, as you'll need to put that 20mm in a vice to you can torque up the nut on the front of the oil pump again.
3) Get the cut end of the balance shaft cleaned up in a lathe, so its nice and flat and balanced, you'll notice the balance shaft is actually hollow. The oil flows through it to supply the rear bearing. This brings us to step 4.
4) tap the hole in the end of the cut balance shaft, and insert a bolt, or a grub screw, with some master pipe sealant or similar. This will block the oil passageway, so you'll still have oil pressure in the motor.
Reassemble the oil pump, and Bob's yer uncle, you'll have a motor that vibrates more, but you'll never have to worry about running a balance shaft bearing again, or tensioning that belt properly so it doesn't whine.
I'd put up some pics i have of the entire process, but some bugger has pinched the vid-card out of my other rig, so i cant access them at the moment.. alas.
three engines no drama`s
Yep thats how we do it up this way too.
with afew veriants,
1) The Left shaft (looking at the motor from the front)
cut the belt to it and leave it (DONE)
2) The oil pump shaft same as last discribed by ProZac
(DONE AND DONE)
Cheers:Phil.
with afew veriants,
1) The Left shaft (looking at the motor from the front)
cut the belt to it and leave it (DONE)
2) The oil pump shaft same as last discribed by ProZac
(DONE AND DONE)
Cheers:Phil.
TORQUES-CHEAP.
I bought a genuine mitsubishi kit with a blanking plate and a dummy shaft for th oil pump.I am overseas at the moment but i kept the bags they came in for the part numbers.I used this with the vr4 timing cover though and from memory the shaft sizes are bigger so it won't fit you timing gear on the balance shaft.You will also need to block off the oil feed as described above.I also have a spare shortened starion oil pump shaft which i cut off a plugged as described above if someone wants it.
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- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
Please note the engine is upside down in these pics. This is the left-hand balanceshaft. You can see the oil supply hole in the first pic, i've already tapped the bearing out. In the second pic you see the orientation of the bearing when you tap it back in to seal the oil supply off.
3rd pic shows the back of my timing cover, you can see my oil-pump and there the balance shaft used to be and now has a grub screw in it. I didnt leave enough meat lef ton the balance shaft to hold it in a vice... Torquing up the bolt on the front of the oil pump pully was a bitch! ;).
3rd pic shows the back of my timing cover, you can see my oil-pump and there the balance shaft used to be and now has a grub screw in it. I didnt leave enough meat lef ton the balance shaft to hold it in a vice... Torquing up the bolt on the front of the oil pump pully was a bitch! ;).
-
- my mangina paid for my staz
- Posts: 2129
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:23 pm
- Location: Brisbane
The dohc ones im talking about are the 4g63 ones, since we use the sohc version of the 4g63 in the starions over here.chrisk wrote:the ones from the states are not for a doch motor there for the 2.6 motor. the only doch heads that fit our car are the hks heads and there are only like 8 of those heads in the us, hks produced the doch heads for the 2.6 motor
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