time to decide on ecu! Faves?
chunkhead,
I had a look at the dyno print outs... one line looks like it was run at 16psi and the other at 30psi. (looking the run descriptions in the left hand side??? I could be wrong...???)
Also...
A 10.9sec pass with 235rwKW equates to a car of around 2100lb = 950kg... Impressive effort for taking weight out of a Starion
Etc...
http://robrobinette.com/et.htm
http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/calcs/dragcalc.html
I had a look at the dyno print outs... one line looks like it was run at 16psi and the other at 30psi. (looking the run descriptions in the left hand side??? I could be wrong...???)
Also...
A 10.9sec pass with 235rwKW equates to a car of around 2100lb = 950kg... Impressive effort for taking weight out of a Starion
Etc...
http://robrobinette.com/et.htm
http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/calcs/dragcalc.html
1985 JB Starion #157
ok dudes thanks for bringing me back down to earth!
i dont intend to internallt touch the engine at all:
just turbo (16g), evo3 inlet man., injectors etc...
what can be achieved with a internally stock engine???
any thoughts on this topic are very appreciated! :beer
mick
i dont intend to internallt touch the engine at all:
just turbo (16g), evo3 inlet man., injectors etc...
what can be achieved with a internally stock engine???
any thoughts on this topic are very appreciated! :beer
mick
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
Out of curiousity can i ask why you think 180bhp is tops? not having a go just interested :)
If forgies can only handle a bit more tolorance than cast pistons or hypatec for that matter, tuning woulld be the majour role correct? aslong as you have enough fuel and ignition to run higher boost so it doesnt ping or detonate..
If forgies can only handle a bit more tolorance than cast pistons or hypatec for that matter, tuning woulld be the majour role correct? aslong as you have enough fuel and ignition to run higher boost so it doesnt ping or detonate..
The only way to discover the limits of possible is to go beyond them into the impossible.
FRESHVR4.Wolf 3D.VL-T pump.hybrid 600x300x100.2.5" piping.3" zorst. TD06 20G 185fwkw on 14psi
FRESHVR4.Wolf 3D.VL-T pump.hybrid 600x300x100.2.5" piping.3" zorst. TD06 20G 185fwkw on 14psi
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- racking my brains
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yeah thats a perfectly reasonable, easy to acheive goal without pushing it too hard as to make it unreliable. to the uninitiated, mick is already running a galant vr4 setup (twin cam).Mick wrote:thanks for the input everyone its great.
i know the other tuning shop does just about anything with decent results but the tuner who prefers motec is fairly methodical and gives half a shit.
sorry i shouldve specified what i was after.
so as follows.
1. totally daily driven
2. perfect trade between response and top end rip
3. 200kw @ wheels
bigger turbo will follow to achieve this (16g), also injectors and evo3 manifold.
is this a realistic goal?
thanks fellas
i will speak to both tuners further and post products they prefer that we can discuss?
cheers,
mick
i like haltech, have never ever heard of one failing, E6X retails for $1350, this includes new sensors.
i also like the wolf 3D version 4, retails for $1095, and u configure it to run your existing sensors. similar quality to the haltech, similar tuning screen too.
both of the above ecu`s are my pick for value for money, they`ll run 99% of engine combinations out there, dont cost the earth, and are reliable. see if your tuner can work with these.
ems computers are good aswell, the 4424 stinger is under $1000, but doesn`t have as many features as the wolf.
motec and autronic are pretty much the best on the market, with the accompanying price tag!
microtech i have not a lot of faith in, every person i know that has one has had theirs back for repairs at least once! and that includes a well known ozmod rotary campaigner that works over the road from me!
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
I personally like Motec, but respect the fact that just about every ECU will perform a good result according to money spent. Simply put, don't buy a cheap old microtech and expect new car driveability and economy. Peak HP may be the same at the expense of minor coughs and black exhaust puffs, but will be cheaper.
I'd suggest that if you want good reliability & driveability look towards the higher end products. If you want a weekend warrior buy a wolf or microtech and spend the remainder on other goodies.
Find your budget and plan from there.
I'd suggest that if you want good reliability & driveability look towards the higher end products. If you want a weekend warrior buy a wolf or microtech and spend the remainder on other goodies.
Find your budget and plan from there.
4G63 - 87kg
4G54 - 107kg
4G54 - 107kg
Sorry Chunky, you're wrong. I have stock internals and am running a lot more than that and that was with my old TC-06.chunkhead wrote:180Bhp atw is MAX for stock internals! It will run higher, but WILL die! I've seen a stock run 200 atw, lasted about a year and completely destroyed itself! And that's not being flogged, daily driver...
chunkhead wrote:Because of who built it!
stop shit stiring i dont want to have to get into another heated argument
bigmoz :pimp
85 JB, forged, larger valves, ported and polished microtech, sonata mpi, td06 20g, intercooler, willwood brakes, koni suspention, 3.9LSD and more shit i cant remember
82 JA, blueprint SIRUS 4g63, dumped and a cooler 17's, exhaust... DEAD :(
big moz (chopyou@hotmail.com)
82 JA, blueprint SIRUS 4g63, dumped and a cooler 17's, exhaust... DEAD :(
big moz (chopyou@hotmail.com)
- Sargeant_Khan
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- Location: Ipswich
redzone thanks heaps for the input mate i did have the wolf and haltech in mind and am pretty sure one of the tuners is very familiar with both.
autronic and motec would be lovely but do you think that it they would be overkill for 200kw at wheels?
basically, i know that no matter how much i spend on my car and how quick it is, there will always be something quicker.
im not going to sell short and buy crap, but if wolf and haltech will do a good job at that power level then it'd be a waste to spend up on motec, autronic?
sorry for not specifying the engine chunk :x
autronic and motec would be lovely but do you think that it they would be overkill for 200kw at wheels?
basically, i know that no matter how much i spend on my car and how quick it is, there will always be something quicker.
im not going to sell short and buy crap, but if wolf and haltech will do a good job at that power level then it'd be a waste to spend up on motec, autronic?
sorry for not specifying the engine chunk :x
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
have decided to go with haltech dudes after talking with a tuner,
anyone really not keen on this?
anyone really not keen on this?
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
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