UK MPI Project - Some Q's and Advice Pls!!
manifold pictured is the exact one found on the u.s. 4g64 sohc 2.4L trucks. I have the same one.
healthy stock staz ignition with *proper functioning* vacuum advance and boost retard, has taken several heavy u.s. widebody street cars down into the 11sec quarter mile. Thats no little bit of power.
It is "tweakable" via weights and springs.
It is old also, so must consider that. The knock box have been the failure component for us.
fuelinjectionpro.com has a $495usd fuel-only, laptop tuned & megasquirt software. Add programmable ignition later $185?usd.
sdsefi.com also has a fuel-only ecu can be had under $700. Needs NO laptop.
Both systems proven on powerful/fast u.s. 2.6s.
healthy stock staz ignition with *proper functioning* vacuum advance and boost retard, has taken several heavy u.s. widebody street cars down into the 11sec quarter mile. Thats no little bit of power.
It is "tweakable" via weights and springs.
It is old also, so must consider that. The knock box have been the failure component for us.
fuelinjectionpro.com has a $495usd fuel-only, laptop tuned & megasquirt software. Add programmable ignition later $185?usd.
sdsefi.com also has a fuel-only ecu can be had under $700. Needs NO laptop.
Both systems proven on powerful/fast u.s. 2.6s.
One of the main advantages with a fully mapable ignition set up should be the ability to transform the car "off boost" surely this is better done with modern electronics that are infintely adjustable over the mechanical/vac set up, I hope so that's why I shelled out for a state of the art ECU, well that and the fact it'll store two different maps one for the road and one for the track.
Either way the main thing is to keep the old Starions going!!!!
TTFN
Paul
Either way the main thing is to keep the old Starions going!!!!
TTFN
Paul
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- my mangina paid for my staz
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That Greddy one will be useless as its only a piggy back computer and not a stand alone computer.widebodyUK wrote:Will that greddy one posted above be ok?
The fuelinjectionpro one quest recommends sounds good as you can upgrade to programmable ignition later. The sdsefi at 700 usd is what you pay for a basic fuel and ignition computer here.
I've run with a fuel only computer before and it will allow you make good power, drivability isnt much better than the stock setup. After upgrading to full ign control and using a map that was for another starion drivablity far greater than using the fuel only computer.
If you decide to go fuel only to start off with, get something that can be upgraded later on without the need to rewire in a new ecu. Also you if you do go the fuel only route first make sure that the source for your vaccum advance/boost retard is taken from the right place.
If thats the Greddy Emanage 'ultimate', the most powerful *TBI* 2.6 posted on SQclub ran that piggyback. Eliminated the mafs also and ran an extra fuel injector.
334hp and 387 ft-lbs tq at the wheels! Although he used an 18g turbo at hi boost, thats still more power than many mpi 2.6s.
Should work on a non u.s. staz ecu. Definitely not a bad option, until you're ready for mpi.
For the sdsefi u could get group buy for ~$640. Handheld programmer
You can alter your ignition curve via springs & weights. Sure, not as "nice" as prog ignition, but has raised some eyebrows performancewise.
As mentioned, its imperative to match the oem dizzy/vacuum source.
Or you can run a regular advance dizzy with an MSD 'boost timing master'. Connect to vacuum source, will provide the amount of ignition retard per pound of boost as you've dialed in, ~$169. It works
Some here imported the Hawk EC21 ~$750usd a few years back. Perhaps a lot more $$ now. Proven results from that ecu also.
EMS is another low cost option
334hp and 387 ft-lbs tq at the wheels! Although he used an 18g turbo at hi boost, thats still more power than many mpi 2.6s.
Should work on a non u.s. staz ecu. Definitely not a bad option, until you're ready for mpi.
For the sdsefi u could get group buy for ~$640. Handheld programmer
You can alter your ignition curve via springs & weights. Sure, not as "nice" as prog ignition, but has raised some eyebrows performancewise.
As mentioned, its imperative to match the oem dizzy/vacuum source.
Or you can run a regular advance dizzy with an MSD 'boost timing master'. Connect to vacuum source, will provide the amount of ignition retard per pound of boost as you've dialed in, ~$169. It works
Some here imported the Hawk EC21 ~$750usd a few years back. Perhaps a lot more $$ now. Proven results from that ecu also.
EMS is another low cost option
Cheers Flav, it still seems odd to me that Guchi looking inlet was shipped half way round the world!! Still thank god for airfrieght where would we all be without it.
Right now the engine's been stripped down awaiting forged pistons and Eagle rods, what would say was a safe boost limit with a Cometic gasket and those internals, I will have the stock crank, still I believe they're quite strong?
Would you remove the balance shafts while its all out??
Thanks again your a top bloke.
Paul :D
Right now the engine's been stripped down awaiting forged pistons and Eagle rods, what would say was a safe boost limit with a Cometic gasket and those internals, I will have the stock crank, still I believe they're quite strong?
Would you remove the balance shafts while its all out??
Thanks again your a top bloke.
Paul :D
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boost
Yes definatly remove the balance shafts! boost, well if U have a good front mount intercooler, with the cold weather, I would start at 20PSI, if U have a good ECU setup, U could run 30PSI. The std crank is good and no problems with crank caps either, we have a 4G63 DOHC here running 40PSI with a 200 shot of Nos on it as well, U guessed it STD Main caps but nitrided Crank in it, makes 800HP :beer
30PSI,2.4L! Wolf 3D Ver 4. VR4 Head.
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HP
ok my old SOHC with those 450CC, was only able to run up2 16-18PSI boost, made 180KW(220-240HP) could of got more but wanted to run sequential injection, so this restricted the power output. If U run banked/grouped injection, U should be able to go to 20-22PSI, but U will probaly be maxing out the injecters. :beer
30PSI,2.4L! Wolf 3D Ver 4. VR4 Head.
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rods
Do yrself a favour, the STD conrods are pretty good, I haven't seen 1 break in my 20yrs working on this engine, save yr money on the rods & put it 2wards the turbo. :beer
30PSI,2.4L! Wolf 3D Ver 4. VR4 Head.
Well there you go...lots of answers and all good. If your using the STD rods then get some arp bolts for them and get them resized, balanced and shot peened as well. Dump them balance shafts and balance the crank down to zero, depending on how its done you may need to block off the oil gallery to the shaft. This is done by removing the bearing and spining it to cover the hole. There is only 1 to block and its the front one behind the pump.
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- my mangina paid for my staz
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- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:23 pm
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This is the one that ran a 13.5 1/4 right, redzone has a pb in his orange stazz of 13.9 and that is with a stock starion with a stock turbo, jd style intercooler and tbi injection. The only mods are vr4 cast pistons and a fuel cut defender. The point of this is theres no point in buying the emanage computer if you plan to go mpi as what is the point of spending the money installing it and tuning it only to take it out later on.quest wrote:If thats the Greddy Emanage 'ultimate', the most powerful *TBI* 2.6 posted on SQclub ran that piggyback. Eliminated the mafs also and ran an extra fuel injector.
334hp and 387 ft-lbs tq at the wheels! Although he used an 18g turbo at hi boost, thats still more power than many mpi 2.6s.
Should work on a non u.s. staz ecu. Definitely not a bad option, until you're ready for mpi.
Sure a fuel only option when going mpi will perform on the drag strip and on the dyno, but so does a carby, hell top fuel dragsters dont even use electronic fuel injection but does that apply to a street driven car? Whats 'nice' about having ign control is day to day street driving, that is driving in peak hour traffic continually stop starting, hill starts, part throttle application, throttle response, highway driving. Sorry but I dont live my life a 1/4 mile at a time :Dquest wrote:For the sdsefi u could get group buy for ~$640. Handheld programmer
You can alter your ignition curve via springs & weights. Sure, not as "nice" as prog ignition, but has raised some eyebrows performancewise.
As mentioned, its imperative to match the oem dizzy/vacuum source.
Or you can run a regular advance dizzy with an MSD 'boost timing master'. Connect to vacuum source, will provide the amount of ignition retard per pound of boost as you've dialed in, ~$169. It works
Also by the time you add the fuel only computer and the msd boost timing master you are well on your way to buying a entry level fuel and ign computer.
Other low cost options are the wolf version 4, microtech and ems stinger, the hawk ec21 features dont compare to the above mention computers as its abit older.quest wrote:Some here imported the Hawk EC21 ~$750usd a few years back. Perhaps a lot more $$ now. Proven results from that ecu also.
EMS is another low cost option
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