How many hp?

[typer]

and 179hp in my registation ??
and one guy tells me that its 179 for europe version made in japan.

[SpidersWeb]

I have the original manual in English and German from my euro spec 1986 Starion EX intercooler turbo. I made a boo-boo though, I was doing a conversion from PS, it actually says:



But my friend google tells me that 132kW = 177.014916hp

[redzone]

Since we are on the topic of power, how much should my car have?

It's got the standard motor, but with port and polish head.
Hi Flowed Garrett T04 w/38mm Garrett external wastegate.
3" exhaust from turbo.

20psi boost

over 200hp at the wheels. probably around 220. u have a fuel cut defender? bigger fuel pump? intercooler? get that sucker on a dyno as soon as possible to check your mixtures, u can run standard type cast pistons up to around 240rwhp if the tuning is spot on, even more than that with vr4 pattern pistons. its all down to air/fuel ratios and lack of pinging/detonation with any engine.

forged pistons only give u more leeway if the thing leans out/pings than casty`s. other than strength benefits when u start revving em over 7000rpm. dont rev it over 7 grand with casty`s, inertia levels rise steeply over this marker. boost level is quite inconsequential if the tuning`s right. but u might find it`ll make better power with less boost and more ignition timing. depends on the individual car.... GET IT ON A DYNO!!

[TD05]

125kw in aust, that's about 167 hp, and 14 psi is all you get in stock form before fuel cut, so 20 psi is a definite way to kill your motor quick..

[SIR GSR]

I don't rev over 6 and rarely rev over 5. No room to give it that much without a track, and no real need in day to day driving.

[rallidave]

hey typer,
you must get pretty good cold air induction eh? LOL

[redzone]

14 psi is all you get in stock form before fuel cut, so 20 psi is a definite way to kill your motor quick..

only if it leans out or pings. and we cant speculate on either on the internet, depends on his setup!

mate come to the next brisbane cruise i`ll take ya 4 a run in my orange car that has been running standard computer with 20psi for ages (like 20000k`s) and 16 psi for 40000k`s before that with no probs and good mixtures everywhere in the rev range. it can be done. u just have 2 know what ur doing!!!!

there are so many fallacies when it comes to tuning turbo cars, must do this, cant do that.. if i listened to all the bad advice i`ve read in magazines and heard on internet forums i would have spent 3 times the money and had a much slower car. but i`m the type of person who likes to challenge conventional thought, therefore i tend to find out little tricks and tweaks that others dont, or dont let on.

Bottom line:

dont let it lean out.

dont let it ping.

follow those rules and ur sweet. whichever way u stay within those guidelines, doesn`t matter.

[SIR GSR]

What little tricks does your orange car have with the stock ecu?

[redzone]

I cant give everything away :D , but here`s the basic specs:

starion 4G63 8 valve 40 thou overbore
galant vr4 type cast pistons tk cheapo brand
stock type 4G64 head gasket, graphlex brand(permaseal graphite)
aussie spec 4G64 8 valve head, unported
port matched intake and exhaust manifolds
mikuni brand starion single point intake manifold(from an import motor-has larger runners)
stock ja injection mixer and injectors
stock ja fuel pressure reg
bosch vl commodore fuel pump(same as vl turbo)
turbosmart fuel cut defender
original computer, totally unmodified
stock aussie spec tc06-11a turbo, comp housing rotated
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust from turbine outlet to 3 inch inlet cannon style muffler, no resonator
stock intercooler and shitty piping from a uk widebody(same as a jd, pretty much)note to use the original flow director from ur original crossover pipe! stops distribution issues with the single point!
turbosmart gbcv, modified to stop boost spiking
k&n air filter, stock airbox with cold air feed from airdam
heat wrap on intercooler return pipes, alloy heat sheilds around turbo
stock distributor, advanced base timing to go with the lowered comp ratio from the big chamber head!

that is my complete setup, runs 14.3:1-15.0:1 mixtures at light cruise, gets over 600k`s out of a tank most of the time.

under load it runs 12.5:1-13.0:1 under full load at 20psi. havn`t had it on a dyno, only the drag strip. all afr testing done on road with a motec high speed air/fuel ratio meter. consistent 14.0`s, occasional 13.9, street tyres, open diff. runs 98-99mph terminal speeds.

that is my setup, easy and cheap to reproduce. good setup 4 a street car! it does push the potential of nearly every component to the limit tho, to go quicker than that i`d have 2 spend a LOT more money!

[SIR GSR]

Damn Redzone, that's alot..........

I've got nowhere near that much stuff done.

[redzone]

yeah its a lot, but its all cheap stuff, and mostly factory! this car has been an excercise in modifying things cheaply, but getting the best results!

but just remember what i said, get it on a dyno!

and if it doesn`t lean out and doesn`t ping, it`ll be fine!!

and see if u can find a dyno operator that uses a headset knock sensing apparatus, like the guys i use.. :beer

[redzone]

APPROX PRICES OF PARTS ON CAR, ASSUMING OFF THE CAR!


starion 4G63 8 valve 40 thou overbore
$200 galant vr4 type cast pistons tk cheapo brand
$50 stock type 4G64 head gasket, graphlex brand(permaseal graphite)
$400 aussie spec 4G64 8 valve head, unported
$198 port matched intake and exhaust manifolds
mikuni brand starion single point intake manifold(from an import motor-has larger runners)
stock ja injection mixer and injectors
stock ja fuel pressure reg
$200 bosch vl commodore fuel pump(same as vl turbo)
$120 turbosmart fuel cut defender
original computer, totally unmodified
stock aussie spec tc06-11a turbo, comp housing rotated
$1000 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust from turbine outlet to 3 inch inlet cannon style muffler, no resonator
$250 stock intercooler and shitty piping from a uk widebody(same as a jd, pretty much)note to use the original flow director from ur original crossover pipe! stops distribution issues with the single point!
$100 turbosmart gbcv, modified to stop boost spiking
$90 k&n air filter, stock airbox with cold air feed from airdam
$50 heat wrap on intercooler return pipes, alloy heat sheilds around turbo
stock distributor, advanced base timing to go with the lowered comp ratio from the big chamber head!


assuming parts are off the car of course...

[TD05]

14 psi is all you get in stock form before fuel cut, so 20 psi is a definite way to kill your motor quick..

only if it leans out or pings. and we cant speculate on either on the internet, depends on his setup!

mate come to the next brisbane cruise i`ll take ya 4 a run in my orange car that has been running standard computer with 20psi for ages (like 20000k`s) and 16 psi for 40000k`s before that with no probs and good mixtures everywhere in the rev range. it can be done. u just have 2 know what ur doing!!!!

there are so many fallacies when it comes to tuning turbo cars, must do this, cant do that.. if i listened to all the bad advice i`ve read in magazines and heard on internet forums i would have spent 3 times the money and had a much slower car. but i`m the type of person who likes to challenge conventional thought, therefore i tend to find out little tricks and tweaks that others dont, or dont let on.

Bottom line:

dont let it lean out.

dont let it ping.

follow those rules and ur sweet. whichever way u stay within those guidelines, doesn`t matter.

ra ra ra ra, yes, if you read again, I said STOCK........ :D

[DD Phil]

My old Yellow JA had:

Stock motor - 160,000km $2000 whole car
TO3, 0.48 A/R off FJ 20 $250
Stock Exhaust manifold with adaptor plate $100
Pulsar GTiR intercooler $300
2 & 2.5" plumbing $200
3" exhaust off the turbo $500

On Chiptorque's dyno it made 190-200 RWHP. With the boost set to 9psi it would creep up to 12/13psi at high revs, the 0.48 A/R and internal wastegate were too small.

I never took it the the track, but it was in between my mate's mid 13 sec FJ20 Gazelle and 14.0 Starlet on the road.

The entire car with mods cost under $4000. Of course I did all the work myself which helps alot with cost.

Phil

[redzone]

14 psi is all you get in stock form before fuel cut, so 20 psi is a definite way to kill your motor quick..

ra ra ra ra, yes, if you read again, I said STOCK........ :D

hmm if its stock, then the fuel cut wouldn`t let u get to 20 psi so double :D :D muahahahahaaaaa