L300 multi help
L300 multi help
Hey guys and gals. I'm just needing some help with a bit of work i've been doing.
So far i have an XF throttle body on a L300 manifold, fuel rail, VR4 injectors and a halteck fuel only F9 comp.
I just need some help with wiring of a few other things.
Are the VR4 injectors positive or negatively switched or does that depend on the computer?
Is there anything that needs to be done to the dizzy to be able to still use the standard staz one?
Where do all the water and heater lines go on the manifold?
Would the stardard XF throttle cable be able to used or would that need to be made?
What gets plummed into the top pipe on the standard L300 fuel pressure regulator?
What voltage does the XF TPS run at and what wires show the TPS position and the power. I have a green and brown wire to choose from.
I'll probabally made more questions later when i run into more problems. Thanks to all who can help.
So far i have an XF throttle body on a L300 manifold, fuel rail, VR4 injectors and a halteck fuel only F9 comp.
I just need some help with wiring of a few other things.
Are the VR4 injectors positive or negatively switched or does that depend on the computer?
Is there anything that needs to be done to the dizzy to be able to still use the standard staz one?
Where do all the water and heater lines go on the manifold?
Would the stardard XF throttle cable be able to used or would that need to be made?
What gets plummed into the top pipe on the standard L300 fuel pressure regulator?
What voltage does the XF TPS run at and what wires show the TPS position and the power. I have a green and brown wire to choose from.
I'll probabally made more questions later when i run into more problems. Thanks to all who can help.
-
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
the injectors aren`t polarity sensitive, most computers if not all pull the inj outputs 2 ground therefore are neg switching. you`ll have 2 make a new throttle cable using the xf end on the throttle bod, starion end at firewall and pedal. call mark at suncoast cable on 54790800 if there`s no one closer 2 ya.. heater hose connections r pretty straight forward but difficult 2 explain, try and have a look at gary`s (kit) black car if u get the chance. the large pipe on the fuel reg is fuel return 2 tank, the small 1 is to manifold vac/boost (after throttle body somewhere).. hope that helps mate
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
-
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
oh yeah the tps runs on 5 volts normally but its just a variable resistor so it doesn`t matter if ur computer runs it on 12v. not sure about wire colours, best advice i can give is test it with a multimeter.. and on a fuel only computer u should be able 2 run the stock dissy alright. cant do that with a fuel/ign as it alters the advance curve!
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
- Cookiemonster
- Mother Goose
- Posts: 3177
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
- Location: Sydney
Re: L300 multi help
They could be switched either way but generally they all hang off a common positive rail and the ECU switches the negative side. Check your ECU wiring diagram.woops wrote:Are the VR4 injectors positive or negatively switched or does that depend on the computer?
You need to lock the standard Starion dizzy so that the mechanical and vacuum advance have no affect.Is there anything that needs to be done to the dizzy to be able to still use the standard staz one?
Can you be more specific on which ones you have problems with?Where do all the water and heater lines go on the manifold?
You may find the XF throttle cable might be too short. Starion throttle cable should be fine for an L300 MPI setup.Would the stardard XF throttle cable be able to used or would that need to be made?
What gets plummed into the top pipe on the standard L300 fuel pressure regulator?
Generally 5V fed from the ECU. Again it depends on the ECU. Do you have a green, brown and black wire? Black would be ground. Brown would be power. Green would be signal. If it doesn't work swap the green and brown around. You can't kill it by wiring it up wrong. Some XF TPS's are on/off switches and not of the variable type. Make sure you have the variable one.What voltage does the XF TPS run at and what wires show the TPS position and the power. I have a green and brown wire to choose from.
The F9's a fuel only so he shouldn't disable the vac or mechanical advance on his dizzy for his planned setup.You need to lock the standard Starion dizzy so that the mechanical and vacuum advance have no affect.
Luckily, the starion uses independant systems for fuel and spark as standard, so you can replace your standard staz ecu with the haltech without dramas, and leave the spark side of things alone.
As far as wiring goes you can download a wiring diagram from Haltech's website and they'll email you the F9 manual if you haven't already got it.
As far as water lines, look at the standard setup and where the lines go and try to copy it.
- Cookiemonster
- Mother Goose
- Posts: 3177
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
- Location: Sydney
Correct. I missed the bit about the fuel only computer. Honestly though, why goto all this work to only install a fuel only computer. I realise money can be an issue, but you get so many gains by replacing the archaic igntion system.The F9's a fuel only so he shouldn't disable the vac or mechanical advance on his dizzy for his planned setup.
Luckily, the starion uses independant systems for fuel and spark as standard, so you can replace your standard staz ecu with the haltech without dramas, and leave the spark side of things alone.
Last edited by Cookiemonster on Sat Dec 17, 2005 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
Yeah thats kinda all of what i just said :D
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
- Cookiemonster
- Mother Goose
- Posts: 3177
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
- Location: Sydney
-
- my mangina paid for my staz
- Posts: 2129
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:23 pm
- Location: Brisbane
It depends on you're after with the starion, a fuel only computer can give you pretty good results for a good price. Also i found that some fuel only computers have similar looms to their fuel/ignition computers, ie wolf 2d and wolf 3d so you could upgrade later without much more cost.Cookiemonster wrote:Honestly though, why goto all this work to only install a fuel only computer. I realise money can be an issue, but you get so many gains by replacing the archaic igntion system.
Well i already had the fuel only computer when i got the engine from a mate. The computer was setup for the throttle body injection and i was able to change over easily. Oh yeah the engine is actually in a sigma. All the setup has cost me including the manifold, injectors, injector cleaning and flow testing and the welding to put on the XF throttle body has been under $500. I personally think it's worth for how all you guys rave on about multipoint.
Leave the stock Starion ignition system in place. The knock sensor will still work,etc because the ignition system is pretty much seperate from the ECU.
However the stock Starion distributor is set to run on ported vaccum that means it does not see vacuum at idle. This is a bit of a problem when going MPI. There is no ported vacuum source on the L300 manifold.
However the stock Starion distributor is set to run on ported vaccum that means it does not see vacuum at idle. This is a bit of a problem when going MPI. There is no ported vacuum source on the L300 manifold.
Well normally they drill through so the hole is actually covered by the throttle blade at idle. As soon as you move the throttle pretty much at all you have vacuum. It would be a pretty tricky job to drill that hole.ProZac wrote:Tee off the vacum line for the vac. Advance unit before the throttle butterfly? That wouldn' show any vacum at idle would it? As soon as you crack open the throttle a little it will give the right signal? Probably want it pretty close to the throttlebody tho.
Actually the L300 manifold has the provision on the casting for 3 taping points but they are not all drilled only one for full manifold pressure which is open all the time.
with a prpoer working dizzy advance and canister you have a decent igniton adv/ret curve for boost.
Playing with spring weights can alter the curve.
Some use a hand pump and monitor with a timing light to set it up.
A couple guys on starquestclub have detailed drilling the ported vacuum... basicly, try to copy the stock.
Moded 2.6s have gone 11s on stock ignition system + mpi, 12s on tbi.
MPI is where u realize the gains, and get rid of the fuel distribution problem that will bite a TBI trying to "push things".
Its a viable low cost alternative that really works.
Hell, a blow thru carb 2.6 went 11.8s on SQC, no intercooler. Full wt. heavy arse airconitoned wide-body! No too shabby, eh.
F.I.P. has fuel-only starion tunable ecu/loom for $495usd
Playing with spring weights can alter the curve.
Some use a hand pump and monitor with a timing light to set it up.
A couple guys on starquestclub have detailed drilling the ported vacuum... basicly, try to copy the stock.
Moded 2.6s have gone 11s on stock ignition system + mpi, 12s on tbi.
MPI is where u realize the gains, and get rid of the fuel distribution problem that will bite a TBI trying to "push things".
Its a viable low cost alternative that really works.
Hell, a blow thru carb 2.6 went 11.8s on SQC, no intercooler. Full wt. heavy arse airconitoned wide-body! No too shabby, eh.
F.I.P. has fuel-only starion tunable ecu/loom for $495usd
Ok I have all the wiring sorted i just need a bit of help with the pluming. Is the fuel pressure regulator inlet manifold pressure taken from after the throttle body or before. Also what actually gets plummed up to what on the inlet.
I don't really understand how this ported vacuum works. How would the best way to hook up the dizzy be.
In the pic below which ones are used.
1 is the one that joins to each runner in the manifold
2 has a vacuum line vitting
3 has a vacuum line fitting and a lager fitting
both 2 and 3 see full manifold pressure
Is 1 for the brake booster vacuum line
Should i have a T piece on 4 to plum in 5 and 7
Do i have to plum 8 and 9 anywhere of should i get plugs for them.
Do i need to have 9 going somewhere to have flow over the temp sensor and if so where do i plum the other end to.
Should i be hooking the BOV, wastegate and boost gauge lines to 2 and 3. Thanks for any help.
I don't really understand how this ported vacuum works. How would the best way to hook up the dizzy be.
In the pic below which ones are used.
1 is the one that joins to each runner in the manifold
2 has a vacuum line vitting
3 has a vacuum line fitting and a lager fitting
both 2 and 3 see full manifold pressure
Is 1 for the brake booster vacuum line
Should i have a T piece on 4 to plum in 5 and 7
Do i have to plum 8 and 9 anywhere of should i get plugs for them.
Do i need to have 9 going somewhere to have flow over the temp sensor and if so where do i plum the other end to.
Should i be hooking the BOV, wastegate and boost gauge lines to 2 and 3. Thanks for any help.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 31 guests