I've Been pondering this for some time now and was wondering if it would be worth while? as I see it it has more Kw then a standard starion motor and more after market support to boot. I should be able to get to the target 150-200kw that I've had since I bought the starion more easily then with the starion motor.
What do you recon?
Also i've heard that you could use the standard engine mounts to with the Sr20/Ca18 motor is this true?
Ca18det in a starion?
Ca18det in a starion?
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dirty sanchez
- I love starions
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SR20DET
SR20DET is a reasonably easy fit, although nothing is ever just 'bolt in'.
A lot less work to fit than a VR4 in my opinion.
Bolts up to standard mounts with some minor redrilling or slotting.
Standard red top (early 180sx) SR20DET with 3 inch exhaust pod filter and slight boost rise (about 9psi) - standard turbo, computer etc. gave 135rwkw with a great spread of power and full boost before 2500rpm.
With a GT28RS turbo, wolf computer, larger injectors and larger fuel pump it is now putting out 200rwkw. Currently have standard cams and power drops off over 6500rpm. Have cams to install that apparently fix this and increase power slightly.
The CA18 will fit in as well, but your better off spending the money on getting the SR20 as it is worlds apart and much easier to make power. Is also all alloy.
RB20/25 should also fit depending on length.
If you want a full run down of whats involved with the SR20 install let me know.
A lot less work to fit than a VR4 in my opinion.
Bolts up to standard mounts with some minor redrilling or slotting.
Standard red top (early 180sx) SR20DET with 3 inch exhaust pod filter and slight boost rise (about 9psi) - standard turbo, computer etc. gave 135rwkw with a great spread of power and full boost before 2500rpm.
With a GT28RS turbo, wolf computer, larger injectors and larger fuel pump it is now putting out 200rwkw. Currently have standard cams and power drops off over 6500rpm. Have cams to install that apparently fix this and increase power slightly.
The CA18 will fit in as well, but your better off spending the money on getting the SR20 as it is worlds apart and much easier to make power. Is also all alloy.
RB20/25 should also fit depending on length.
If you want a full run down of whats involved with the SR20 install let me know.
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madeofmilo
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a ca18 is a fairly ez swap into a staz. The oe exhaust barely clears the steering box in a LEFT hand drive car (not a prob for a RHD I'd imagine).
We picked up two ca18 from the importers, and 2 days later a starion was leaving the shop yard sideways. With all the weight of a heavy 3100+ pound u.s. widebody, coupled with the tall 3.54 gearing, I was surprised to see how well the puny little 1.8 moved it. I told the owner, "that tired 'old' little motor is doomed". Six months later I see him doing donuts in a parking lot with THREE passengers aboard! That has to be 3700+ pounds. Too much load for a 1.8 imo.
Yes, either motor is an easier swap than the VR4. For a 2900 pound street car, neither would be my choice *IF* you're after an exceptionally fast street car eventually. There are bigger displacement choices that would blow away even a built up sr or ca, and do it on stock innards for less money with better driveability (tq).
For 150-200kw, SR might be a 'slightly' better choice over a ca, depending on cost of the motor set.
I wouldn't go with an inline 6 in the staz engine bay... too long
On the CA vs SR.... they're not 'worlds apart'. Nonsense. I've owned and moded both at the same time. Pretty close performance, s13 with the SAME mods actually - simple as state of tune or driver can make the difference. Both go hard.
Rod bearing problems plague the ca because of its age. The sr is not far behind (lots of failure threads on our u.s. forums). With either motor, I'd check/freshen the big ends before beating it up. ca easier to work on imo
The motor weights are very close... despite the alloy block
ca18 does wonders in a street 510, 120y or rwd corolla.
12.0s t3/t4 @13psi. Mid/lo 11s with more boost, still STOCK innards.
Will do it a long time & reliably too. Decent performance, regardless.
We picked up two ca18 from the importers, and 2 days later a starion was leaving the shop yard sideways. With all the weight of a heavy 3100+ pound u.s. widebody, coupled with the tall 3.54 gearing, I was surprised to see how well the puny little 1.8 moved it. I told the owner, "that tired 'old' little motor is doomed". Six months later I see him doing donuts in a parking lot with THREE passengers aboard! That has to be 3700+ pounds. Too much load for a 1.8 imo.
Yes, either motor is an easier swap than the VR4. For a 2900 pound street car, neither would be my choice *IF* you're after an exceptionally fast street car eventually. There are bigger displacement choices that would blow away even a built up sr or ca, and do it on stock innards for less money with better driveability (tq).
For 150-200kw, SR might be a 'slightly' better choice over a ca, depending on cost of the motor set.
I wouldn't go with an inline 6 in the staz engine bay... too long
On the CA vs SR.... they're not 'worlds apart'. Nonsense. I've owned and moded both at the same time. Pretty close performance, s13 with the SAME mods actually - simple as state of tune or driver can make the difference. Both go hard.
Rod bearing problems plague the ca because of its age. The sr is not far behind (lots of failure threads on our u.s. forums). With either motor, I'd check/freshen the big ends before beating it up. ca easier to work on imo
The motor weights are very close... despite the alloy block
ca18 does wonders in a street 510, 120y or rwd corolla.
12.0s t3/t4 @13psi. Mid/lo 11s with more boost, still STOCK innards.
Will do it a long time & reliably too. Decent performance, regardless.
I'm playing with this idea too, when the 4G goes I might consider a 1.8 lt turbo, the CA seems to fill the bill, a mate from work is selling one and I might just buy and keep it until needed..... I'm after something light in weight that revs nicely, with a bit more power than the stazz stock motor
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Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
for the sr or ca, use the nissan gbox. Shifter falls ~5" further back than the staz gbox. Easier to mod a prop shaft than adapt a gbox.
sr can rev. Get rocker arm stoppers if you must. It has a broad enough powerband for good street performance use as is tho.... its that missed shift/overrev that might get you.
With either ca/sr valvetrain mods (cams/gears/springs/ret) get$$$$ costly. I can pick up a WHOLE vg30Et powerplant for that money, so it makes no sense pumping up a 4. The v6 is far smoother, rugged, torquier and loads more potential... and since you're swapping anyway....
rb20 won't kill a vr4. Why go 2L with more weight (and extra pounds ahead of the crossmember) ? Killer exhaust not tho.
VR4 with a sonata/truck/bus 2.4L crank... u better bring an rb25 or 26 to keep up. 4g64 dohc are nasty customers.
Since this thread is about a *simple 150-200kw* motor swap. ca or sr= sensible choices
sr can rev. Get rocker arm stoppers if you must. It has a broad enough powerband for good street performance use as is tho.... its that missed shift/overrev that might get you.
With either ca/sr valvetrain mods (cams/gears/springs/ret) get$$$$ costly. I can pick up a WHOLE vg30Et powerplant for that money, so it makes no sense pumping up a 4. The v6 is far smoother, rugged, torquier and loads more potential... and since you're swapping anyway....
rb20 won't kill a vr4. Why go 2L with more weight (and extra pounds ahead of the crossmember) ? Killer exhaust not tho.
VR4 with a sonata/truck/bus 2.4L crank... u better bring an rb25 or 26 to keep up. 4g64 dohc are nasty customers.
Since this thread is about a *simple 150-200kw* motor swap. ca or sr= sensible choices
Question is, can u even fit (with 'working room') a rb between the oe radiator and firewall in a staz engine bay ? s13 or supra mk2 swallows an inline 6, no problem.
in totally stock form @ stock boost, u may be right.
How do power numbers compare ? Not hard to figure it out.
Most likely you'd wanna turn the heat up a bit.. t h e n... what happens to the rb. Their ceramic turbos die ~14psi.
Mitsu 14b or 16g has proven to live long @20+psi.
rb has nowhere as tough as a 4g63 oe pistons.
Personally seen too many oe piston failures on hi output 20 and 25.
There have been lots of stock 4g63 powered heavy 3300 pound cars put down amazing numbers using original 130+k mile motors & ecu, aftermarket cams only. Incredible li'l motor
Parts far cheaper for the mitsu.
in totally stock form @ stock boost, u may be right.
How do power numbers compare ? Not hard to figure it out.
Most likely you'd wanna turn the heat up a bit.. t h e n... what happens to the rb. Their ceramic turbos die ~14psi.
Mitsu 14b or 16g has proven to live long @20+psi.
rb has nowhere as tough as a 4g63 oe pistons.
Personally seen too many oe piston failures on hi output 20 and 25.
There have been lots of stock 4g63 powered heavy 3300 pound cars put down amazing numbers using original 130+k mile motors & ecu, aftermarket cams only. Incredible li'l motor
Parts far cheaper for the mitsu.
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