Any tough car in here

King cordia · Post by **King cordia** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:43 pm

How i do not boost cut,First of all i adjust my boost controller to around 16 psi,i recently made a in cabin gearstick switch,from the yellow wire,so when i drive with the switch in the not activated mode,my engine would only allow me to boost till it BOOST CUTS,when i race as soon as i feel the engine is near the 10 psi mark,i flick the switch and it will alow me to boost my engine to 16 psi,without cutting.

I have pushed my engine to 23 psi a few times,and nothing goes wrong,not even detination,i dont have it.

Like i mentioned in my signature,those are the only mods that i have,i dont have NOS<HEAD WORK<TURBO WORK<BLOCK WORK<FUEL SYSTEM UPGRADES.
ZILCH-only a zorst and intercooler,but in a difrent arangement.

nashstyle · Post by **nashstyle** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:06 pm

Oh so now its 23psi! Last week it was 20psi. I guess its like your power reading, first it was 120wkw, then it was 116wkw, and now you don't know what your power reading is. Hard to keep trackof these things isnt it

:roll:

SpidersWeb · Post by **SpidersWeb** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:19 pm

Even the top racers here would not go over 20psi on forged engines with pump gas. At 23 psi and a TX5 intercooler, add 96 octane fuel, and you'd probably end up with pre-ignition.

Also what the hell makes you think, that your Cordia, is capable of providing enough fuel to deal with the amount of air that gets pushed in at 23psi from a TC06-11????!!??

Insufficent fuel = cylinder temp too hot = ping = bye bye engine

My only possible answer to this, is your boost gauge is hooked to a vac line before your intercooler, and the pressure drop across a TX5 cooler is large. The gauge needs to be hooked after the throttle body.

Also if you have the short piping that you claim, you wouldn't have time to hit the 'yellow wire' switch because when you hit boost its not a gradual thing, it'll go from 0 to 10psi in a quick flick.

Anyone who regulars WSID, please take a camera, I want to see this magical Cordia that will do 23psi on a TC06 without pinging and no fuel mods. God the fuel pump probably doesn't even provide enough pressure to keep up, at 23psi boost and a base of 38, thats 61psi of fuel pressure, can the Cordia FPR and pump handle that? Can the MAFS flow that much air? Would that not rip the factory MAP sensor seals? Would the standard springs be able to hold the valve closed?

nashstyle · Post by **nashstyle** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:25 pm

I think the FPR is only good for 58psi, but could be wrong, I think I read it in a service manual.

coop1er · Post by **coop1er** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:13 pm

2 x 850cc injectors as in Rogers Cordia are big enough to make 320hp.
Plenty of people run anything up to 20psi with conservative timing and
decent intercooling. Rogers time is unremarkable, there have been
people with stock 4g62 engines and just external mods that have done
high 13 second quarters. What is remarkable is Rogers poor English
and the response he gets to his trolling. And for the record, a jet valve
head on an Australian delivered Cordia is not stock, so he cant really
claim to have a stock engine.

Junkers · Post by **Junkers** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:38 pm

A single point injection system can't keep a super accurate A/F ratio so that's another thing that'll stuff your engine up at 16psi+

You can tell this guy watches one too many boy racer movies, the whole "flick the switch" thing sounds like a scene out of the fast and the furious.

Further more why would you hook the wire up to a switch rather than just cut it? It's not like boost cut (injectors turning off) is a good way to control your boost.

Jet valved? as in MCA JET?

Oh and rodger the detonation wont be like backfire down the exhuast, it'll be a clicking sound you'll hear while boosting.

RiceThief · Post by **RiceThief** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 8:30 pm

King cordia wrote:i recently made a in cabin gearstick switch,from the yellow wire,so when i drive with the switch in the not activated mode

This shows how stupid you really are, if you are normally running the switch in not activated mode that would be equal to having the wire cut as the circuit is not complete, and when you switch it on, u will complete the circuit. People on this forum arent as stupid as you, so at least try to think before you type.

Junkers · Post by **Junkers** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:07 pm

I believe he means not having the boost cut control activated, just his english makes it a little hard to decipher :roll:

SpidersWeb · Post by **SpidersWeb** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:09 pm

Apparently pressing the space bar after a comma is a challenge also.

fr335tyl3r · Post by **fr335tyl3r** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:10 pm

Still intruiged as to what this "yellow wire" is.

Wanna post some pictures of your mods roger? If you dont have a camera I will gladly drive to your house tommorrow and take pictures.

SpidersWeb · Post by **SpidersWeb** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:12 pm

The yellow wire is the wire that transmits the boost signal from the MAP to the ECU, it is yellow.

fr335tyl3r · Post by **fr335tyl3r** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:14 pm

Ah ok. Might be obvious, but if you had a switch wired up to this that cut this off, wouldn't this make the fuel, etc go a bit nuts? Doesn't it rely on this signal to determine how much fuel to inject?

Junkers · Post by **Junkers** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:20 pm

If it does well rofl , I always assumed it was just a shut off signal.

RiceThief · Post by **RiceThief** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:23 pm

fr335tyl3r wrote:Ah ok. Might be obvious, but if you had a switch wired up to this that cut this off, wouldn't this make the fuel, etc go a bit nuts? Doesn't it rely on this signal to determine how much fuel to inject?

Doesnt the cordia use the MAF sensors to work out how much fuel to inject

SpidersWeb · Post by **SpidersWeb** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:30 pm

fr335tyl3r wrote:Ah ok. Might be obvious, but if you had a switch wired up to this that cut this off, wouldn't this make the fuel, etc go a bit nuts? Doesn't it rely on this signal to determine how much fuel to inject?

From what I've heard it only uses the MAP for fine adjustments. My old Starion ran fine with a dead one, unless it sat on WOT in a gear for too long (e.g. 3rd 1500rpm to 5500rpm, or 5th at 150KPH), then it'd go bang, lurch, and cough a cloud of black smoke.

Austarion

Any tough car in here

frrf

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