high flow box........

[Rally]

Can anyone tell me what options there are on replacing the air box in a ja where the air flow meter is incorporated....... The std air box doesn't give much air flow and i am looking at what is available, whether it be an in line air flow meter from another vehicle and a pod filter or something else

[Junkers]

I think most people get a new ECU and get rid of the airflow sensor entirely, expensive though :(

[WidebodyWoody]

There really is only three things you can do.

1) Gut the stock air box to allow more air-flow
2) replace the MAF sensor with a MAF Translator allowing you to have a pod airfilter
3) Aftermarket computer.

Gutting the airbox is easy, you just have to cut away the metal outside the filter exposing the filter itself, which if done well enough, can be the same as a pod filter.

The MAF translator has been used in the US but from memory never here.

Hope this helps

[BLOFLY]

I don't think the standard airflow meter gives much flow, but you could possibly chop/adapt the airflow unit into another airbox, or better yet into a short length of pipe, with an i/d to match the large o-ring and mount what electronics you can externally. This would allow a pod filter to be attached on one end and the air would maintain a straight path through. Also try removing the honeycomb gauze from the end.

[JPC]

Also try removing the honeycomb gauze from the end.

:glare: Nope, wrong! If you're using the standard ECU and retaining the stock Karman vortex air flow sensor mechanism, removing the honeycomb will bugger up the AFS readings. The honeycomb serves to make the airflow uniform and substantially reduce inlet turbulence. Without the honeycomb, the AFS won't work properly and your car will start getting big mood swings (just like your girlfriend, wife, boyfriend, whatever... )

[Entaran]

Also try removing the honeycomb gauze from the end.

:glare: Nope, wrong! If you're using the standard ECU and retaining the stock Karman vortex air flow sensor mechanism, removing the honeycomb will bugger up the AFS readings. The honeycomb serves to make the airflow uniform and substantially reduce inlet turbulence. Without the honeycomb, the AFS won't work properly and your car will start getting big mood swings (just like your girlfriend, wife, boyfriend, whatever... )

You can take the honeycomb at the START, not at the end. Take the one at the end and it'll hunt like it has MAD cams. (like 700-1500rpm huntnig)... it'll hunt further if the ecu didnt' cut fuel at 1500.