Alternator quiz

[TD05]

The only way to properly test the alternator, is to use a multimeter and measure its output. Clip the negative probe to chassis earth (engine block,or the batt (-) terminal) and the positive probe to the output terminal on the alternator at idle, (a screw terminal on mine), it should be between 13.8 volts to about 14.5 volts....

[4g6beat]

Ok TM Magna alternator question now :)

ok other than the b+ i see a d+ and d- as well as a single spade plug connector. Does the staz exciter wire hook up to any of these? also as a

<b>note</b> if anyone else thinking of swapping to one of these you'll need to transfer the staz alternator pulley over to the tm magna one (simple job) as the magna uses a different type. This makes it pretty hard to get the belt on though as hcca was talking about in an earlier post.

However what i did differently was use a smaller belt pulley than the staz one (camira or anything smaller in diameter) so i didn't recieve any headaches putting the belt on.

thanks for everyones input.

[TD05]

Ok TM Magna alternator question now :)

ok other than the b+ i see a d+ and d- as well as a single spade plug connector. Does the staz exciter wire hook up to any of these? also as a

<b>note</b> if anyone else thinking of swapping to one of these you'll need to transfer the staz alternator pulley over to the tm magna one (simple job) as the magna uses a different type. This makes it pretty hard to get the belt on though as hcca was talking about in an earlier post.

However what i did differently was use a smaller belt pulley than the staz one (camira or anything smaller in diameter) so i didn't recieve any headaches putting the belt on.

thanks for everyones input.

a smaller pulley will cause the alternator to run harder and wear out faster...

[4g6beat]

Thanks td05.

i was thinking this also, however the replacement pulley is still larger than one that was originaly on it (quite small). It's just that it's not quite as huge as the staz one which i assumed would spin the magna alternator too slowly as it was twice the size. I asked my mechanic and he said it would be more sensible to get the size as close to stock as possible. However i don't know how different the staz revs from the magna (i'd guess the staz would be faster by a fair bit). Does anyone have any ideas on this?

[hcca]

The only way to properly test the alternator, is to use a multimeter and measure its output.

That won't tell you anything about current draw though. I've had alternators that have produced good voltage but were still rooted.

ok other than the b+ i see a d+ and d- as well as a single spade plug connector. Does the staz exciter wire hook up to any of these?

You'd be better off hooking it up between a 12V glove and an IGN-on power source. That way you have visual confirmation that it's working. The one I have only has a single spade terminal. Are you sure you have the right alternator? If it is fitted with a pulley for a ribbed belt, it's the wrong one. It should be V-belt. Also, it should NOT have a wiring harness connector - just a screw terminal for B+ and a spade terminal for the exciter.

note if anyone else thinking of swapping to one of these you'll need to transfer the staz alternator pulley over to the tm magna one (simple job) as the magna uses a different type. This makes it pretty hard to get the belt on though as hcca was talking about in an earlier post.

You shouldn't need to - yes the belt is a tight fit, but it DOES go on. Put it over the crank pulley and alternator pulley and then lever it over the water pump pulley.

a smaller pulley will cause the alternator to run harder and wear out faster

I think you'll find the difference negligible. A smaller pulley will help the alternator produce better current at idle. In any case, the absolute difference between the standard pulley and a smaller one is still insignificant because it's not like you can change it by large amounts.

[4g6beat]

ahh nut's must've got the wrong alternator. I was at the wreckers and he had 2 types of tm magna alternator and both had non vbelt style arangements on had a larger plug (like the twin cams ) while the other one had a similar b+ terminal another plug identical to the staz plug (except one spade connector not two) and another spade conector that was labled d+ and had a supressor type thingy dangling off it.

Does this make any sense? it's in my car and running fine but i'm paranoid the wreckers labelled the alternator wrongly. Oh well if it's working i'm not complaining :) just another weird anomaly in the starion universe.

[TD05]

The only way to properly test the alternator, is to use a multimeter and measure its output.

That won't tell you anything about current draw though. I've had alternators that have produced good voltage but were still rooted.


hcca, You can measure current with a multimeter too

[hcca]

Yeah, but what you've described only tests the voltage :)

[hcca]

9 120 UFO 919

Not sure about the UFO bit, but the numbers are right. The last 3 are the important ones I think.

If it has a ribbed belt, it's the wrong one. If it has a wiring harness connector it's the wrong one. Mine only has one spade terminal.

[TD05]

Yeah, but what you've described only tests the voltage :)

look for the shunt the dash batt gauge uses, it's near the fuse box, set the DMM to mV and measure the voltage drop across this, you can measure the current flow this way.

If however you have an output of say 14.5v and no current, it's like saying the tap is on and I can see water coming out but my hands aren't getting wet. the alternator needs a load (ie the battery) to work, if the batt is stuffed then it'll draw little or no current, and you'll have the symptom you describe.

[hcca]

I've had the situation with a battery in perfect working order, pulled 800CCA with no problems at all - tested alternator voltage with the car running, read 14V as it should. Pulled the alternator out, had it tested on a bench and it passed the test, and it was stuffed..

Didn't work out what the problem was until I put the alternator back in the car and had it hooked up to a diagnostic machine. Diode faulty - meant it was charging, just not enough. So a basic voltage test is OK most of the time, but there are times when it's not going to tell you the whole story.

[TD05]

Yeah, but what you've described only tests the voltage :)

look for the shunt the dash batt gauge uses, it's near the fuse box, set the DMM to mV and measure the voltage drop across this, you can measure the current flow this way.

like i said

[Darkelf]

4g Champion make an alternator that bolts straight on and even has the correct plug fittings.

Not sure of the part number tho or the price but it wasn't that expensive.

[MelbStazz]

Unless JB is different, which it shouldn't be, the white wire goes to the B+ terminal (the one with the nut on it). Blue wire is the exciter wire and connects to the spade terminal. Yellow wire goes to the oil pressure sender.

i think i just found out why my oil pressure gauge doesn't work since the new altenator.
Thank you. thank you, thank you.
i thought i was in for lots of $$$$.

:beer :beer hcca :beer :beer

[hcca]

Haha... took me a while to work that one out too :)