just confirming,
blue= turbo
black= oil
white= condensation
right???
asking only because i tuned my car to run rich top end to make engine last that bit longer,
however letting the car idle after a drive, and just touching accelerator a puff of smoke comes out, none when i'm driving or non noticably when i am, until i had a mate who was tail gating me tell me he saw a puff of blue smoke come out when turning a corner, and i wasn't in boost...
i thought blue smoke would only come out if your in boost....
i have a rebuilt tc06 hi-flowed for about two years now and its boosted to 15psi....
car runs and goes like a rocket, but this smoke... trying to locate its orgin,
i pray its not engine, and by looks of it i dont think it is... if my seals, rings or pistons were to go i'd get a fuck load more black smoke then a puff here and there, but if it was the turbo the blue smoke would give it away right..
or is there another possiblity that some else could be wrong with this picture???
smoke colours
smoke colours
"No problem can be solved from the same level of consciousness that created it".
- Albert Einstein
- Albert Einstein
White Smoke = Turbo (oil in exhaust burns white)
Blue Smoke = Oil/Rings (oil burns in motor)
Grey/Blue Smoke = Valve Stem Seals (Possibly Rings)
Black Smoke = Fuel (Running Rich)
Water/Coolant and Condensation can also burn as white steam.
(This is general, sometimes yoiu maybe experience different color smoke, like rainbow colored if your car is running on fairy floss)
Sounds like Vavle Stem Seals or Possibley rings.
Cheers
Ben
Blue Smoke = Oil/Rings (oil burns in motor)
Grey/Blue Smoke = Valve Stem Seals (Possibly Rings)
Black Smoke = Fuel (Running Rich)
Water/Coolant and Condensation can also burn as white steam.
(This is general, sometimes yoiu maybe experience different color smoke, like rainbow colored if your car is running on fairy floss)
Sounds like Vavle Stem Seals or Possibley rings.
Cheers
Ben
DJ_NoVa
Just a thought...It might be a good idea to buy a compression tester. You can pick them up for a good price from supercheap auto etc..
There are two types screw in or push in. (I have a push in one. just make sure you have it sealing well and firmly pushed in.
Take all the plugs out first. (make sure you know which lead goes where for when you go to put them back on). Also make sure the battery has a good charge.
Get some one to crank the engine over 5 times with you holding the compression tester in.
Record the pressure and repeat for all cylinders. Double or tripple check if they look low.
Now squirt some oil into a cylinder and repeat the test. If the reading gets higher for that cylinder, you might have a problem with the rings?
If it is still low it could mean a valve is not seating properly.
If you have low compression with cylinders next to each other then you could have problem with your head gasket.
Things left are valve stem seals or valve guides.
Is the car using oil??? If so at what rate?
It could be running rich in the part of the map? as well as up high?
What ECU are you using???
Just a thought...It might be a good idea to buy a compression tester. You can pick them up for a good price from supercheap auto etc..
There are two types screw in or push in. (I have a push in one. just make sure you have it sealing well and firmly pushed in.
Take all the plugs out first. (make sure you know which lead goes where for when you go to put them back on). Also make sure the battery has a good charge.
Get some one to crank the engine over 5 times with you holding the compression tester in.
Record the pressure and repeat for all cylinders. Double or tripple check if they look low.
Now squirt some oil into a cylinder and repeat the test. If the reading gets higher for that cylinder, you might have a problem with the rings?
If it is still low it could mean a valve is not seating properly.
If you have low compression with cylinders next to each other then you could have problem with your head gasket.
Things left are valve stem seals or valve guides.
Is the car using oil??? If so at what rate?
It could be running rich in the part of the map? as well as up high?
What ECU are you using???
1985 JB Starion #157
check your PCV system sometimes the car sucks oil thru there at high vac and burns it when you open the throttle again.. I think there's a baffle inside the rocker cover that stops that but sometimes it stuffs up..
Kiss my st AZZ -
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
In my experience, turbo smoke is usually white, its most common
at idle and also a bit under boost.
Water is white too but the difference is that you wont see it when
engine is really hot (unless there is a massive leak) and it tends to
dissapear, not hang around like oil smoke.
Valve stem seals are more normally a bluish colour and are most
prominent when you start it first thing in the morning or when
accelerating after idling for a while.
Piston rings usually shows up as blue smoke coming from the
exhaust during an extended period of high speed (above 2000rpm)
running.
You also need to be careful with diagnosing turbos for smoke
that the pcv system is not blocked, the oil drain is not blocked.
High crankcase pressure can make the turbo leak oil.
at idle and also a bit under boost.
Water is white too but the difference is that you wont see it when
engine is really hot (unless there is a massive leak) and it tends to
dissapear, not hang around like oil smoke.
Valve stem seals are more normally a bluish colour and are most
prominent when you start it first thing in the morning or when
accelerating after idling for a while.
Piston rings usually shows up as blue smoke coming from the
exhaust during an extended period of high speed (above 2000rpm)
running.
You also need to be careful with diagnosing turbos for smoke
that the pcv system is not blocked, the oil drain is not blocked.
High crankcase pressure can make the turbo leak oil.
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