Inlet manifold, do i need to replace these o-rings?
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- G33Kz0r
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Inlet manifold, do i need to replace these o-rings?
Scored an inlet manifold for next to nothing, so ive pulled it apart, and am cleaning it up. There were signs of fuel leaking pretty much everywhere, so im replaceing all the o-rings around the injectors, but i want to know if i need to replace these aswell:
They're definatly a seal, or compression pad of some form, but they are specifically shaped, so finding a replacement could be tricky?
Al? Im pretty sure your quite knowledgeable on this...
They're definatly a seal, or compression pad of some form, but they are specifically shaped, so finding a replacement could be tricky?
Al? Im pretty sure your quite knowledgeable on this...
O-Rings.
They are not seals. They are mounting o-rings.
Just make sure they are in good condition, or otherwise repair them.
The main seals are the medium one and the two on top of the injectors.
None of the others are critical, and you would probably be better if the bottom ones did leak slightly, to pass any fuel that does escape the top chamber.
The injectors look good BTW... Nice score
Regards
David
Just make sure they are in good condition, or otherwise repair them.
The main seals are the medium one and the two on top of the injectors.
None of the others are critical, and you would probably be better if the bottom ones did leak slightly, to pass any fuel that does escape the top chamber.
The injectors look good BTW... Nice score
Regards
David
just a note: those brown o-rings are nitro compound. make sure when u buy new ones they are fuel resistant, I used normal N7 type on my cordia, they blew out after about a week, in the driveway thank f$#k!!
I figured out the meaning of life, and since then every day just gets worse.
Warranty void if stupid.
Warranty void if stupid.
i took my injectors out when i was trying to work out why they weren't firing and one of the small black o rings disintegrated, the ones that seal between the bottom of the injectors and the eci unit. i couldn't find a replacement but the cars running ok without them (not sure if better or worse, i had never run the engine before this) and was wondering how necessary they are? and if anybody can get a part number for them or knows where to get them in auckland nz. i tried a basic metric o ring from a set but they were too fat and the injectors wouldn't fit back into place.
cheers
Matt
cheers
Matt
project 1: 1976 TA23 Celica
project 2: 1981 EX Lancer, SOHC 4G63T conversion, heaps of turbo lancer bits, running, but fixing the diff at the moment :D
project 2: 1981 EX Lancer, SOHC 4G63T conversion, heaps of turbo lancer bits, running, but fixing the diff at the moment :D
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- G33Kz0r
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I'd say trim down the standard metric o-ring. As was said they are just for mounting, could be good for soaking up vibrations? Aslong as the o-ring on the top of the injector is sealing, you shouldnt have any fuel heading down the sides of the injectors there anyhow. Otherwise, wait for someone up there to wreck a starion and nab the manifold? its good to have a spare :).
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- G33Kz0r
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Right, i've finally got a morning off work, so i went and bought all the o-rings, and the throttle shaft seals:
7*2v80 oring, x2
56*2.5n70 oring x1
10*2.5n70 oring x1
90*2n70 oring x1
7*2n70 oring x2
6*2n70 oring x1
10*2.5n70 oring x2
3*2n70 oring *1
10*20 NAK - seal
cost pretty much bang on $25NZ, thats all the sealing o-rings and the 2 seals for the throttleshaft. I brought double of everything however, so i can rebuild the one that is currently on my car aswell. Mitsubishi use Nitrle for everything, except the 2 injector top o-rings, where they used Viton, i decided to follow they're wisdom and did the same. I was warned not to use AVGas in my car however, as it will eat the nitrile.
7*2v80 oring, x2
56*2.5n70 oring x1
10*2.5n70 oring x1
90*2n70 oring x1
7*2n70 oring x2
6*2n70 oring x1
10*2.5n70 oring x2
3*2n70 oring *1
10*20 NAK - seal
cost pretty much bang on $25NZ, thats all the sealing o-rings and the 2 seals for the throttleshaft. I brought double of everything however, so i can rebuild the one that is currently on my car aswell. Mitsubishi use Nitrle for everything, except the 2 injector top o-rings, where they used Viton, i decided to follow they're wisdom and did the same. I was warned not to use AVGas in my car however, as it will eat the nitrile.
cheers for those numbers, for that price i might just have to buy the lot.
where abouts did you get them? mitsubishi dealer? or just any parts place?
cheers
Matt
where abouts did you get them? mitsubishi dealer? or just any parts place?
cheers
Matt
project 1: 1976 TA23 Celica
project 2: 1981 EX Lancer, SOHC 4G63T conversion, heaps of turbo lancer bits, running, but fixing the diff at the moment :D
project 2: 1981 EX Lancer, SOHC 4G63T conversion, heaps of turbo lancer bits, running, but fixing the diff at the moment :D
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- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
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Place here called "Engineering Plastics". The guy behind the counter was extremely helpful, i took all the parts in with me, and he re-measured everything, and test fitted everything before i payed. You should be able to find some engineering orientated store that will sell o-rings.
Ive taken ALOT of photos aswell during re-assembly.
Ive taken ALOT of photos aswell during re-assembly.
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- racking my brains
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Bump for the list of o-ring sizes, doing Claire's car in the next 2 days!
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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