1320ft wrote:This would be the setup that I have been talking to Doug about via email
He showed me your email and aske if it would fit. I informed him that if you were using a Starion block, it will work.
Could have gone lighter but decided 9mm was the thinnest we should go on the thrust surface.
They have gone down to 6mm on some other competition flywheels but as this is for "general consumption", 9mm will allow you to resurface the flywheel several times and still have enough metal to remove the heat when people feather the clutch too much.
1320ft wrote:I'm not using a starion block though! Mine is all VR4
What gearbox are you planing on using as this will decide what flywheel/clutch will fit?
Alspos wrote:Stock clutch is 9", still all fits being 10" clutch? Also, does the flywheel come with a centre bearing?
Doug believes the clutch will fit so I will say YES. As for the bearing, I honestly don't know but at around $20 for a new one, it won't break the bank if it isn't included.
Another bit of info you might find useful, ARP 203-2801 flywheel bolts fit, but there are 8 of them in the ARP packaging.
1320ft wrote:I'm not using a starion block though! Mine is all VR4
What gearbox are you planing on using as this will decide what flywheel/clutch will fit?.
FG Falcon spec Tremec TR-6060 (T-56)
Superscan wrote:
Alspos wrote:Stock clutch is 9", still all fits being 10" clutch? Also, does the flywheel come with a centre bearing?
Doug believes the clutch will fit so I will say YES. As for the bearing, I honestly don't know but at around $20 for a new one, it won't break the bank if it isn't included..
Alspos wrote:Stock clutch is 9", still all fits being 10" clutch? Also, does the flywheel come with a centre bearing?
Doug believes the clutch will fit so I will say YES. As for the bearing, I honestly don't know but at around $20 for a new one, it won't break the bank if it isn't included.
Another bit of info you might find useful, ARP 203-2801 flywheel bolts fit, but there are 8 of them in the ARP packaging.
Cheers.
I meant by my question more about getting a bearing the right size and not having to hunt around to find the right one or having to get the flywheel machined to fit one, not so much about saving a few dollars by it being included.
1320ft wrote:Actually should be around $5 for the bearing.
The bearings I buy are supposed to be "special" in they are a little loose when cold(not the shell, the actual balls). When they heat up they are on size. This type of bearing is supposed to last longer than an ordinary bearing.
Alspos wrote:I meant by my question more about getting a bearing the right size and not having to hunt around to find the right one or having to get the flywheel machined to fit one, not so much about saving a few dollars by it being included.
Sorry, I assumed it was about the money.. It's possible he sells the bearing, but if not, I'll try to find my spare to get its number. I purchased these from CBC Bearings.
If you are going with the original starter position for the VR4 engine, you will probably need a VR4 flywheel because they are physically smaller than the Starion flywheel, even though the Starion flywheel will bolt straight on.
If the bellhousing fabricator is good, he should be able to reposition the starter to suit the Starion flywheel PROVIDING it doesn't clash with the bellhousing bolt pattern.
While I'm most likely "Preaching to the Converted" it is still worth mentioning:
Because the bellhousing has to be fabricated, IMHO, using either a Starion or VR4 flywheel would be a better option as you can run "off the shelf" flywheel/clutch solutions, rather than having to fabricate yet another custom part.
That's where Bill Hincher comes into his own.
He does all the research and design, giving you an end product that uses most of the original flywheel/clutch components.
Makes it easier in the future when you need to repair/replace worn out parts. His idea to run the center bearing off the crank rather than in the flywheel is also another very good idea.
this might seem a bit of a noob question but in no regards to power which of the competition (carbonetic) and street/race (cushion button) clutches would be more suited to clutch kick abuse/drifting/track work? really keen otherwise!
Honda Accord CB7 (Daily)
Starion Turbo, (Drift Car)
Toyota MX32 Cressida (New Project)
