First startup -different schools of thought for ring bedding

[Lunacy]

Hey guys/gals
Have been doing alot of reading into this and am a bit undecided on a startup method for my engine.
Most of the reading says you want to avoid idling on a new engine as this does nothing to bed the rings. All well and good. So needs load to bed them.
As the car isnt able to be driven on the road i'll have to do this on the dyno.
My main question is: am i able to start and run the engine for a minute or two at idle to check for leaks etc before taking it to the dyno, or will this ruin the bedding process? Just don't want to end up strapping it down on the dyno, being charged by the minute, to find ive got half a dozen leaks to fix before we can actually do anything (worst case scenario)
Also what method have others here used for bedding the rings? Alot of people seem to swear by just running wastegate boost and loading up the engine, then braking (not engine braking) then loading up again, and braking again.
Any input appreciated

[OLD FART]

Here you go Bryce :D
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

PS With your attention to detail seriously doubt there will be any leaks etc.
PPS thanks 4 the LSD plate :beer
PPPS use a dedicated running in oil as they have more Zinc.
PPPS Can you borrow a trade plate or get a temporary rego to" take it to a workshop for WOF inspection" to run it in on the road ??

[kiwieurospec]

I'd start it first in make sure all is good before it going to the dyno for sure. Remember these guys sit in the car, their screen doesn't tell them water is pissing out everywhere and you'd be surprised how long it take for them to notice.

I start them up and check for leaks, then around the block with some foot brake loading. Then check for air locks in cooling systems and any leaks/dramas and I'm up the hill.

Everyone has different ways/experiences/tips I've done this for years on everything from side valves through to modern stuff.

Its prolonged idling you need to avoid. Also the cruise run in, holding it at the same revs for ages (open road) I also never touch running in oil.

[enthuzed]

Glad you posted that link Rad, was exactly the one I was thinking of as I read Lunatics post. It certainly changed my thinking regarding the engine run-in process!

[rodney007]

I had few leaks after start-up from the oil supply on back of head :roll:

For running-in I used a 30 weight run in oil from a reputable engine builder for first 500kms, then onto full synthetic. Just made sure I varied the rpm's and loaded her up without the thrash.

However if your getting on the dyno straight away for a tune then I guess the bedding happens there?

[OLD FART]

Here is another method on a dyno :D
http://highboostforum.com/forum/showthr ... t=break+in

[ProZac]

Similar school of thought to cars with fresh engines at work.

Get the oil system primed, usually using a pressurised system.
Perform all the usual pre-dyno checks, intake system pressure test, etc.
Get them started and make sure nothing is leaking.
Do the low power / cruise tuning, by the end of this, the rings will be bedded in.
Tune as per usual.

[thrash]

Given that factory motors tend to last 200,000 - 400,000kms or even more in some cases (albeit at low power levels), I wonder if they run the motors in before putting them in the cars?

I haven't looked too carefully, but i've never seen user manuals that come with new cars saying "run it in"..

So unless the motors are run in from the factory, I wonder if it matters that much for longevity purposes..

Since we're after max performance, this may all be irrelevant to us though

[enthuzed]

I know that Porsche run them in on the bench first.
And they stand by warranty claims if there's some grey in the vehicles operation, as long as its not cained when cold or over-revved often.
They check the car's black box.