Ever sourced new pins for our plugs?

[ProZac]

Was working on the engine loom for my car today, and I want to use the B-28 plug which connects the front wiring harness to the ECI harness, so it's a nice plug and play affair.

Ive got the female side of the B-28 plug, and the old pins, but I'd ideally like to crimp new pins onto my new loom... Has anyone ever found a supplier for them before? Even any hints as to the manufacturer of the connectors would be helpful.

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Post up a picture of the connecter terminal removed from housing. It may even be that Mitsubishi make/made connectors, their Electronics division was pretty big

[ProZac]

Found the buggers.

Sumitomo type 58 14 way unsealed connector. Two types of pins depending on what wire size is used.

Now, just need to find a supplier, that might be tricky.

http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/s ... 68_569_570

No stock though, don't like my chances of finding any anywhere in MOQs less than a few hundred. Might be time to just crimp and shrink.

[ProZac]

I ended up finding a local supplier for these pins, ED's Auto Services in New Zealand. Sold me bags of 100 pins for ~$25 per bag.

Part numbers 7114-1231 and 7116-1231

Also, Mid eighties to mid nineties Nissans used this style of plug PROLIFICALLY. So if you ever need one, hit up a wreckers and hunt around some older nissans. I just got a bunch for next to mothing to re-pin and make up my door looms with :-).

Specifically the electric window plugs, door loom plugs, and the stereo plugs in the older nissans.

[Alspos]

Great info!

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Thats very helpful for me! Did you mean B-38 Connector, the one on the ECI loom?

[ProZac]

Took me about an hour, but got all my ex-nissan plugs pulled apart, de-pinned, and sparklingly cleaned :-). I'm swapping my red car to the later model door skins with the window switches in them, and its actually a decently large wiring change between the models. Using these plugs allows me to (almost) follow the factory wiring diagrams to make it servicable in the future.

Those two pin part numbers, but with 30 on the end instead of 31, are the same pins, but for 0.3-0.5mm cross sectional area conductor, whereas the 31 part numbers are for 0.85-2.0mm cross sectional area conductor. I'll try and get a bag of each of the 30's aswell, if they do them.

Good info here:
http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp ... TYPE_e=005

Popup - Nope, B-38 I think is the plug number for US markets. For Australian, Europe, and General Export, its:

B-28 - Front wiring harness and control wiring harness combination.

This is a 14 pin Yazaki 58 Type S connector. The American B38 is also 14 pin, but a different style of connector.

Incase anyone is wondering, yes, I'm a wiring nerd. No job on a car is more satisfying to me than constructing a totally bitchingly kickass, tidy, mostly hidden, loom :-).

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Prozac, do you have a photo of that connector? Does it follow the same pinout as on http://projectzerog.com/wiring-how_to.shtml?

[ProZac]

Nah different. I'll snap a photo, and figure out the pinout from the wiring diagrams I have here.

[ProZac]

Normally located above the ECU, beneath glovebox, on my RHD Euro car anyway, I'm assuming it's the same for LHD cars, and should be the same for Australian cars (JD's, anyway).



Looking into this plug, the pinout is:

1, Not used.
2, (Blue) - +12V from Ignition Switch 'ON' Circuit.
3, (Black-Yellow) - Ignition Switch Starter Signal
4, (Black) - Constant +12V from Brown Sub Fusible Link.
5, (Yellow-Green) Gauge Temp Sensor.
6, Not used.
7, Not used.
8, (Red) - +12V from ECI Control Relay To Pressure Exchange Solenoid and Boost Sensor
9, (Light Green-Blue) - Vehicle Speed Signal from Reed switch in back of gauge cluster.
10, (Red-Yellow (LHD), Blue-Yellow (RHD) ) - ECU signal to Pressure Exchange Solenoid and Boost Sensor (barometric reading trigger?).
11, (Green-Black) - Boost Sensor signal to Igniter.
12, (Black) - Boost Sensor Signal Ground.
13, (Yellow) - Boost Sensor Signal to ECU.
14, (Green-Red) - Sensor +5V Reference from ECU to Boost Sensor.

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Ah, so that standard boost sensor/map and solenoid for reading baro pressure is on a different loom by the looks of it.

[ProZac]

Yup yup, the plugs for those are on the 'Front' Loom, which runs behind the dash and comes out of the firewall in the corner next to the sensor and solenoid.

The output from the sensor to the boost gauge is also part of the 'Front' wiring loom, and goes directly to the boost gauge.

This is good, as it means that if you switch to another ECU in the vehicle, all you need to do is give the boost sensor +12V, Ground, and *maybe* +5v via the B28 plug, and your factory boost gauge will still work :-).

Info should be relevant all the way up untill ~1988, when they got rid of the external boost sensor, and the ECU controlled the boost gauge with it's calculation of what boost pressure should be. Also, DASH 12V head car's never had an external boost sensor, so the ECU must control the boost gauge in all of those.