Schultz JB Starion
Next Update
I have been very busy. I have the engine and gearbox nearly out so I can fix the rust under the windscreen easier.
The roof is mostly bare metal and I have sprayed it with etch primer and a bit of spray putty so I can see how I will fix it. I was just going to run a light coat of body filler over it but am a bit concerned that it will just crack and peel off because the roof pushes down real easy.
The rear quarters are loosing their black coat but still need a bit more done to them.
Still haven't worked out if I will put the normal lights back in the back or if I am going to weld it all up and fit LED lights that I saw on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400451789227 ... 348wt_1050
The roof is mostly bare metal and I have sprayed it with etch primer and a bit of spray putty so I can see how I will fix it. I was just going to run a light coat of body filler over it but am a bit concerned that it will just crack and peel off because the roof pushes down real easy.
The rear quarters are loosing their black coat but still need a bit more done to them.
Still haven't worked out if I will put the normal lights back in the back or if I am going to weld it all up and fit LED lights that I saw on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400451789227 ... 348wt_1050
Well, I lost the engine, it was there one minute and puff it was gone.
I pulled the head off and lucky thing, I only have about 1 mm of movement from the pistons in the bore.
Well, out of the car the turbo looks a bit bigger then what I thought it was. I put it next to the standard turbo and yep it is bigger.
Update
Got around to cutting out the rust in the front.
That is with my welding skills. The good thing is when I banged it with the hammer it didn't fall off.
I have covered it in some fibreglass/metal bog and after some sanding will use a little bit of car filler on it.
That is with my welding skills. The good thing is when I banged it with the hammer it didn't fall off.
I have covered it in some fibreglass/metal bog and after some sanding will use a little bit of car filler on it.
good stuff mate! looks like your getting the hang of it real well. :D. be alot easier putting straight shapes and welding them in place.. i got to plate some rust.. and its got bends etc.. :/.
what turbo is that your upgrading to? is that on a standard 4g63 sohc manifold also?
what turbo is that your upgrading to? is that on a standard 4g63 sohc manifold also?
Honda Accord CB7 (Daily)
Starion Turbo, (Drift Car)
Toyota MX32 Cressida (New Project)
Thats it for now...
Starion Turbo, (Drift Car)
Toyota MX32 Cressida (New Project)
Thats it for now...
G'day GormzZ
Yep, that was a bit harder to make because I had to bend it 10 different ways. The welding is getting better for me too, was not that difficult to learn but I have to admit that I am very happy that I have grinder because I have to grind a lot. I suppose that is the difference between a good and a bad welder. The better you are the less you have to grind.
As far as I can say it is a Garrett GT4 BB turbo. It has M12 and an R written on it, no plates riveted on it with information stamped in it. It is on a standard SOHC manifold using an adapter with 3" dump pipe and a Turbonetics Mark 2 external waste gate. It was on this engine already and I just took a picture of the two turbo's because I could not believe the size difference to my standard turbo.
The block is running some 3 valve per cylinder pistons.
As far as I can say it is a Garrett GT4 BB turbo. It has M12 and an R written on it, no plates riveted on it with information stamped in it. It is on a standard SOHC manifold using an adapter with 3" dump pipe and a Turbonetics Mark 2 external waste gate. It was on this engine already and I just took a picture of the two turbo's because I could not believe the size difference to my standard turbo.
The block is running some 3 valve per cylinder pistons.
Time for another update
I have finally got the bonnet, roof and front rust repair done to the stage of having spray putty on it. It is taking some time but I am getting there. I got about 12 month to finish it all and I think I can make it.
Next week I will have a friend that runs the local garage come around for a few beers and to have a look at the engine and maybe sort out a clutch set-up. He has build a few cars himself including some 1/4 milers so he should be able to offer me some advice on what I am doing because to be honest I don't know what I am doing BUT willing to learn and I have learned heaps so far.
Next week I will have a friend that runs the local garage come around for a few beers and to have a look at the engine and maybe sort out a clutch set-up. He has build a few cars himself including some 1/4 milers so he should be able to offer me some advice on what I am doing because to be honest I don't know what I am doing BUT willing to learn and I have learned heaps so far.
A bit more of an update
Started working on the passenger door. It has got a bit of rust in it as well.
Cut the rust out a bit and cut some new metal to weld in there.
Cut the rust out a bit and cut some new metal to weld in there.
Another Update
While I have the front guards off I thought I might swap the front struts as well. I have to clean the inner wheel arches and chuck some black stuff on them and then I can chuck my other standard struts in.
Gotta fix a bit of rust in there as well and stick some new sealer in there in a few places.
Gotta fix a bit of rust in there as well and stick some new sealer in there in a few places.
Damn that door rust looks nasty.. makes me want to fully inspect my starion to make sure i haven't missed any rust spots :/. None the less dude i'm loving every single bit of work your doing. DIY is where its at and i believe a true car enthusiast is just that.
Honda Accord CB7 (Daily)
Starion Turbo, (Drift Car)
Toyota MX32 Cressida (New Project)
Thats it for now...
Starion Turbo, (Drift Car)
Toyota MX32 Cressida (New Project)
Thats it for now...
Thank you GormzZ. I try my best and if I ever get it finished I want to go for a drive to Bundaberg and Maryborough and catch up with you along the way.
G'day popup. There is no salt on the roads here. But I did live in Cairns QLD for 5 years and there is heaps of salt in the air.
The body is surprisingly mostly rust free, just a few little bits. I think most people would have bought a couple new doors and be done with it but I thought I would try fixing mine before replacing them.
G'day popup. There is no salt on the roads here. But I did live in Cairns QLD for 5 years and there is heaps of salt in the air.
The body is surprisingly mostly rust free, just a few little bits. I think most people would have bought a couple new doors and be done with it but I thought I would try fixing mine before replacing them.
Another update
Got a bit more steel welded in the front at the bottom and I think with a little bit of bog on that it will be sweet. Now at this stage normal people would bolt the door on the car to make sure it still fits - but me I just wing it. I must not be normal.
That little bit is next on my list of things to do. Once I welded a bit more steel in my hole I will cut the bottom out a wee bit for some metal as well.
That little bit is next on my list of things to do. Once I welded a bit more steel in my hole I will cut the bottom out a wee bit for some metal as well.
Another update
Thank you OLD FART
I am very determent to do what I can and on a very tight budget.
I have the front struts back in after cleaning the inner wheel arches and had to clean the old sealer out and put new seam sealer in. And I found out you can buy that under body bitumen in spray cans now. Wow, that made things a lot easier.
Now that I look I noticed that I forgot to clean the struts before I bolted them back in. Pulling them out and cleaning them will be a job for another day.
That's the bottom of the door repaired. A bit of new steel, a bit of bog and a lot of work, lol.
I am very determent to do what I can and on a very tight budget.
I have the front struts back in after cleaning the inner wheel arches and had to clean the old sealer out and put new seam sealer in. And I found out you can buy that under body bitumen in spray cans now. Wow, that made things a lot easier.
Now that I look I noticed that I forgot to clean the struts before I bolted them back in. Pulling them out and cleaning them will be a job for another day.
That's the bottom of the door repaired. A bit of new steel, a bit of bog and a lot of work, lol.
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- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
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Coming out sweet mate! Always better to repair original panels :beer
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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