Just received a rocker cover and non jet-valve head from the courier, score! Let the engine building commence (in a month or so anyway).
Head has a crack between a sparkplug thread and a valve seat, so I'll have it dipped, gouge it out and have a go at welding it up. Should be an interesting project. I'd like to do as much of it as I can myself without have to use specialist shops, as they charge waaaaaay heaps much monies.
ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!
So will the DSM style CAS trigger an EVO ECU? It seems like EVO use a separate crank and cam sensor?
Edit:
Might have found the answer here
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Something about swapping injector and spark leads because the signals are inverted???
@Prozac, here is that link (think its taking about 2.6 applications)
http://kdmperformance.com/archive/index.php/t-1368.html
Edit:
Might have found the answer here
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Something about swapping injector and spark leads because the signals are inverted???
@Prozac, here is that link (think its taking about 2.6 applications)
http://kdmperformance.com/archive/index.php/t-1368.html
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
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ProZac
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The evo 1-3's use the same sort of CAS I'm using, whether the signal generation method be optical or hall-effect, the output is the same.
The later model evo's, where the changed things around a little, use a seperate crank and cam sensor. The Crank sensor is on the nose of the crank, and the cam sensor at the back of the head (same place as evo 1-3's pretty much).
The combined waveform of both sensors is the same as the output from an evo 1-3 CAS though, seems like all the performance orientated JDM mitsies use the same 4-2 pattern.
The later model evo's, where the changed things around a little, use a seperate crank and cam sensor. The Crank sensor is on the nose of the crank, and the cam sensor at the back of the head (same place as evo 1-3's pretty much).
The combined waveform of both sensors is the same as the output from an evo 1-3 CAS though, seems like all the performance orientated JDM mitsies use the same 4-2 pattern.
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ProZac
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Oh happy day!
Had a right time, right place situation yesterday that resulted in me now owning this:
I've always wanted a black interior, and this was the only part I'm not confident of being able to change the colour of and get a good result. Quite stoked.
Got some work done on my down-pipe the last couple of days. This is only the second one I've made with a divorced wastegate pipe, they're a bit tricky, but should do the job. It'll have a flexi in it too.
Fits!
I've tried to keep it as close to the firewall as possible to hopefully leave room for a steering shaft when I one day switch to rack and pinion. One day in the Distant very far off future, like when I fit that dash... Both will be a long way off.
I've been looking into electric powersteering pumps from MR2's also. One of the guys at work has one fitted to his racecar and it looks like an interesting bit of kit. Apparently it should work okay with a box instead of a rack. Will have a go at fitting one, as it'll keep things nice and tidy, and allow me to put A/C back into this thing.
Had a right time, right place situation yesterday that resulted in me now owning this:
I've always wanted a black interior, and this was the only part I'm not confident of being able to change the colour of and get a good result. Quite stoked.
Got some work done on my down-pipe the last couple of days. This is only the second one I've made with a divorced wastegate pipe, they're a bit tricky, but should do the job. It'll have a flexi in it too.
Fits!
I've tried to keep it as close to the firewall as possible to hopefully leave room for a steering shaft when I one day switch to rack and pinion. One day in the Distant very far off future, like when I fit that dash... Both will be a long way off.
I've been looking into electric powersteering pumps from MR2's also. One of the guys at work has one fitted to his racecar and it looks like an interesting bit of kit. Apparently it should work okay with a box instead of a rack. Will have a go at fitting one, as it'll keep things nice and tidy, and allow me to put A/C back into this thing.
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perrinsohc
- Mine is bigger than yours
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ProZac
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Yup yup, original manifold because it's easy :). Will need quite a bit of slogging out to match up to the new turbo though.
Turbo is a TD05H 16G, with a 7cm^2 exhaust housing that has been ported out, has a larger wastegate port, and a TD06 compressor cover because it looks cooler, but wont actually make any difference, heh.
Chur on the welding comment. You just wait till you see how royally I stuffed up the hole in the downpipe for the divorced wastegate pipe... 7-8mm gap to cover with weld... Better crack out the MIG for that one.
Turbo is a TD05H 16G, with a 7cm^2 exhaust housing that has been ported out, has a larger wastegate port, and a TD06 compressor cover because it looks cooler, but wont actually make any difference, heh.
Chur on the welding comment. You just wait till you see how royally I stuffed up the hole in the downpipe for the divorced wastegate pipe... 7-8mm gap to cover with weld... Better crack out the MIG for that one.
Hmmm i have the same memory doing my downpipe haha :) That hole is a tough one to match up!ProZac wrote:
Chur on the welding comment. You just wait till you see how royally I stuffed up the hole in the downpipe for the divorced wastegate pipe... 7-8mm gap to cover with weld... Better crack out the MIG for that one.
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ProZac
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A little more work on the downpipe yesterday. By happenstance the meeting point for the wastegate pipe and the main pipe was right on a join in the main pipe, this will make welding the whole thing together much easier.
Then I turned around and saw this:
I decided shit was a little too out of control, so spent the rest of the day cleaning the garage :).
Then I turned around and saw this:
I decided shit was a little too out of control, so spent the rest of the day cleaning the garage :).
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ProZac
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Oh if only TOMSUN! You always get to a certian point with a piece, and then have to wait for something to be made, or think a way around a problem, or for the money to purchase the next bit to magically accrue...
Yesterday I picked cleaning the garage, and got that sorted.
Ahhhh, that's better.
Ideally, I would have liked to finish my downpipe this morning, but I did the exhaust on my father in laws mini earlier on in the week, and left my welding helmet out at their house, so it will have to wait.
Decided I'd take a look at the turbo:
Rebuild kit is from Kinugawa, and looks like it'll do the job, all the pieces are there anyway. I cleaned everything else up, and sorted getting it balanced next week.
I bead blasted the nugget a while back when I was doing some other pieces, and thought I'd put this paint to the test. I've had good results from it before, will see if it can work in this situation.
Couple of light coats, and one wet coat. Leave it to dry for a couple of hours, and then chuck it in the oven as hot as you can get it for 30 min's or so. It's still in the oven now, cooling down again. We're shooting off 4wding for the weekend, so can stay there till we get home :).
Had another 30 mins to kill, so I installed some new wheel bearings in some front hubs, which I previously shortened the studs on. I don't like slip on spacers, so I had some 15mm hubcentric bolt on ones made. The studs are shortened so when the spacers are installed, the end of them is flush with the end of the nut. This provides clearance for the wheels to seat properly on the spacers. Should get the front wheels sitting just right. I've got some 20mm spacers for the rear too, to take care of that end. Will shorten those studs on the car though, as rebuilding the rear end is way down the priority list at the moment.
Much nicer working in a somewhat tidier garage... 'Tidy house, tidy mind' really does ring true.
Yesterday I picked cleaning the garage, and got that sorted.
Ahhhh, that's better.
Ideally, I would have liked to finish my downpipe this morning, but I did the exhaust on my father in laws mini earlier on in the week, and left my welding helmet out at their house, so it will have to wait.
Decided I'd take a look at the turbo:
Rebuild kit is from Kinugawa, and looks like it'll do the job, all the pieces are there anyway. I cleaned everything else up, and sorted getting it balanced next week.
I bead blasted the nugget a while back when I was doing some other pieces, and thought I'd put this paint to the test. I've had good results from it before, will see if it can work in this situation.
Couple of light coats, and one wet coat. Leave it to dry for a couple of hours, and then chuck it in the oven as hot as you can get it for 30 min's or so. It's still in the oven now, cooling down again. We're shooting off 4wding for the weekend, so can stay there till we get home :).
Had another 30 mins to kill, so I installed some new wheel bearings in some front hubs, which I previously shortened the studs on. I don't like slip on spacers, so I had some 15mm hubcentric bolt on ones made. The studs are shortened so when the spacers are installed, the end of them is flush with the end of the nut. This provides clearance for the wheels to seat properly on the spacers. Should get the front wheels sitting just right. I've got some 20mm spacers for the rear too, to take care of that end. Will shorten those studs on the car though, as rebuilding the rear end is way down the priority list at the moment.
Much nicer working in a somewhat tidier garage... 'Tidy house, tidy mind' really does ring true.
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ProZac
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While I'm waiting for some bits to come back from engineering places, and some overseas stuff to arrive, I though I'd have a go with an electrostatic flocker one of the guys at work has.
I scored these A pillar trims off FST4RD a while back, and they were pretty gross. The plastic was all flaking off and chalky, and the driver's one was yellow from cigarette smoke. I attacked them with 80grit and got all the flaky/chalky stuff off, then gave them a hit with some satty-b.
They still had massive sanding marks in them from the 80 grit, but looked marginally better. All that vinyl type texture was long gone though.
The flocking process is a bit time sensitive. Basically, I used a sponge roller to evenly apply PVA glue to the entire surface, being very careful to get it into all the corners and tricky places. Now, you need that PVA to stay wet and not develop a skin. You hook the machine, which is basically a hopper attached to a static field generator, to the workpiece. It produces electrostatic field strength somewhere in the vacinity of 40000 volts I believe. This electrostatic field between the hopper and the workpiece causes all the flock fibres to 'declump', and fly out of the hopper, towards the workpiece at a pretty decent velocity. Where they hit the workpeice, the glue catches them and holds them tight. Due to the orientation of the field, all the fibres hit the workpiece end first, making them accumulate quite densely. The finished product is very similar to velvet or suede.
I kind of stuffed up the first try, and didnt have the glue everywhere I needed it... But PVA is water soluble so if you're quick enough, you can wash your stuff up away, hah.
After letting the bits dry overnight, the fibres are stuck good and proper, and it seems to be pretty hard wearing. I did the gauge cluster cover too, to eliminate the glare on the screen it causes.
A couple of the guys at work have done their entire dashes, and they look pretty cool, but I dont know if it would suit a starion dash, with the big flat areas they have... thoughts?
Also, the flocking fibres are attracted to anything vaguely damp... As It was a really hot day, and I was being a sweaty bastard, it was a bloody messy job, exibit A:
I scored these A pillar trims off FST4RD a while back, and they were pretty gross. The plastic was all flaking off and chalky, and the driver's one was yellow from cigarette smoke. I attacked them with 80grit and got all the flaky/chalky stuff off, then gave them a hit with some satty-b.
They still had massive sanding marks in them from the 80 grit, but looked marginally better. All that vinyl type texture was long gone though.
The flocking process is a bit time sensitive. Basically, I used a sponge roller to evenly apply PVA glue to the entire surface, being very careful to get it into all the corners and tricky places. Now, you need that PVA to stay wet and not develop a skin. You hook the machine, which is basically a hopper attached to a static field generator, to the workpiece. It produces electrostatic field strength somewhere in the vacinity of 40000 volts I believe. This electrostatic field between the hopper and the workpiece causes all the flock fibres to 'declump', and fly out of the hopper, towards the workpiece at a pretty decent velocity. Where they hit the workpeice, the glue catches them and holds them tight. Due to the orientation of the field, all the fibres hit the workpiece end first, making them accumulate quite densely. The finished product is very similar to velvet or suede.
I kind of stuffed up the first try, and didnt have the glue everywhere I needed it... But PVA is water soluble so if you're quick enough, you can wash your stuff up away, hah.
After letting the bits dry overnight, the fibres are stuck good and proper, and it seems to be pretty hard wearing. I did the gauge cluster cover too, to eliminate the glare on the screen it causes.
A couple of the guys at work have done their entire dashes, and they look pretty cool, but I dont know if it would suit a starion dash, with the big flat areas they have... thoughts?
Also, the flocking fibres are attracted to anything vaguely damp... As It was a really hot day, and I was being a sweaty bastard, it was a bloody messy job, exibit A:
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