ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!

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Post by popup »

I thought about that and I think you would need to get one cut. If you think what it would look like on a scope, then do the same for the CAS running opposite direction it doesn't come out as a simple flipping of the wheel. I think with the popularity with MEgasquirt/DIY Ful Injection there are places that will do you custom trigger wheels. Google!
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
ProZac
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Post by ProZac »

I've come to the same conclusion popup, it'll be the right way to go.

After all that, I've bloody stuffed up the manifold clearance too... I never fitted it with the optical dizzy installed, and you can't get it in place with the manifold upper section installed, as the optical dizzys are quite a bit taller.

I think to remedy that problem, I'll make a 'franken-CAS' out of an old distributor, and a DOHC CAS, and have a new wheel cut to take into account the reversed rotation direction.
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Post by ProZac »

Have found some time to work on the car this week, has been awesome. Warning though, this update is pure geekery.

ECU antics continue, with an EVO V ecu falling into my lap pretty much. This is awesome, as they're re-flashable in situation, you dont have to (or are even able to) open the case. To get my motor correctly signalling this ecu, I need the right pattern coming out of the optical dizzy.

Spend some time with Dad figuring out the best way to go about things, and then left all the machining work to him, as he's knowledgeable about such things, whereas I am most certainly not. The factory SOHC optical dizzies would work once I had the right chopper disc made, but I was silly and didnt leave enough room to actually slip one into the head past the throttlebody! We decided to machine up some bits and pieces, and fit a DOHC CAS onto the end of a SOHC dizzy. This gives a shorter unit overall, which can *just* be slipped into place with the intake manifold in place.

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And in place:

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Now i just have to do some figuring and get an optical chopper disc made with will output the correct pattern for the ECU.

I fired up the ECU on the bench, and got the logger/flashing cable talking to it. I used a JimStim (Usually used for testing mega-squirts), to simulate the mitsy triggering pattern, and hooked it all up, and it all worked smoothly first time, score! The logger was showing the correct RPM values on the laptop, and blinky lights were going as expected. Colour me very pleased.

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Yeah... I work tidy.

The engine bay is looking better and better. I'm trying to keep it nice and clean, but when I get the alternator, Psteer pump, and air flow meter back in, with all the associated plumbing, it's bound to get a bit cluttered again. Also needs less blue.

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Hoping to get it running again in the very near future. I've also scored some EVO VIII 560cc injectors which I'll see if i can clean/flow test at work to make sure they're all good. I'd also like to see the spray pattern to make sure they'll be okay in a SOHC head.... Not too sure on that yet, but chances are I'll just use them anyway. Will be ordering the rebuild kit for my turbo, and next exhaust housing in the next day or so, so that'll be another item ticked off the (still very large) list.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

dude, you are freakin awesome!!

green with envy at your skill and knowhow!!
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by ProZac »

Cheers mate :-) . The hardest part I think so far has been the CAS to dizzy machining... But I got Dad to take care of that, heh. Non of the electrical stuff is too tricky, just takes a bunch of reading. I've become a bit of a fan of running older motors on factory ECU's. Next up we're going to do a mates FJ20 skyline on an SR20 ecu, and then a turbo L28 on an RB20 ecu. They should be fun projects :-) .

Best thing about this evo v ecu is that there are a ton of mods out there for them. It can do all the boost control, and I can even add anti-lag, no-lift-to-shift, and launch control! But one thing at a time, gotta get it running first :-) .
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

hmm, so is it all the ecus after the evo v that are like this?
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by ProZac »

Yup, pretty much.

EVO V and VI are very very similar, and there are plenty of mods and info out there for them.

But even better, are the EVO VII, VIII, and IX ECU's (not the RS models though apparently, just the usual models). They are also flashable in situation via the diagnostic connecter, and there are even MORE mods for them, that are more developed. There is also a better flashing cable for those models, that can datalog almost twice as fast.

EVO I - III ecu's are also tunable, as they all used external EPROM memory for their storage. Once you remove the EPROM chip, install a socket in its place, you can use an EPROM emulator to run the vehicle up, and dial in a tune. Once that is done, you burn the data to an EPROM chip, install it, and job done. These ecu's have to be opened to have all this done though, so are a bit more work. Plus, they have nowhere near as good diagnostic logging options.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

hmm, would the mivec stuff cause trouble when using the evo ix ecus though?

I wonder why more people don't do this then.. I mean it would be so much better for the base setup stuff like idle control etc on a twin cam..?
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by ProZac »

Hmmmm, not too sure on the MIVEC stuff.... is MIVEC continuously adjustable, or an on/off type deal, like VTEC, or the DASH valves?

CeddyMods is the name of the biggest modified ROM for the 5/6 ECU's, it adds in a few cool features like launch control and stuff.

TephraMod is the name of the main one for the 7/8/9's, same kind of deal, but it's a bit more advanced. With TephraMod you can apparently change the vehicle over to speed-density (MAP sensored), so you can do away with the air flow meter... I reckon that's pretty cool for a factory ECU.

Apparently they are working on something similar for the 5/6 ECU's, but I don't think there has been much development in a couple of years. Once mine is all up and running I might look into it myself, its pretty fun stuff.

I know what you mean about the idle stuff. Pretty much all the mitsies from this ear run the same idle stepper motor control system under the throttlebody, which is what I've put on mine. Really hope the fact it's a SOHC motor doesnt mess with anything.

Aftermarket ECU's do have their benefits though. Better choice of trigger patterns (making true crank-based triggering easier), and more resolution in the tuning tables.

Now I have to teach myself how to actually tune a car... Because I have no idea, lol. Still, hopefully it'll start and drive on the stock EVO V tune.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

I would have thought the late model factory ecus would have a much better/ higher resolution set of tuning tables than aftermarket ecus?

can you tell how many tuning points the v or vi ecu has?
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by ProZac »

Image

Those are the high octane fuel and ignition maps as read out of this EVO VI ECU yesterday. I'm pretty sure they'll be the stock ones.

I was slightly mistaken earlier, the evo 9 ecu's are a different beast, and it's the 7's and 8's that you use TephraMod on. That mod can also include much higher resolution tables I've been lead to believe.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

hey that's freakin awesome!

can you pull up the cold start maps or enrichment info? I wonder how these would compare to the maps my ecu is running

looks like the resolution is 18x18? So you were right, the resolution isn't all that great. Perhaps the ecu has better algorithms for calculating the in between ones.. but who knows.
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by ProZac »

This is everything I could see related to cold starting. Its a bit vague, as I don't know what the 'units' are for the cold start. It would kind of make sense if it was a value that got added to the calculated load, but I suspect there is more going on than that.

Image
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Post by kailo »

Awesome build.. good to see someone pioneering something different. I recall seeing somewhere that the rvr's have a cas on the front (don't remember if they trigger the same or not) but if they do wouldn't that give you the correct trigger wheel orientation?
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Post by ProZac »

Cheers. All I need now is some time to work on it :). Hopefully Over the christmas break I'll be able to put some good time in.

I've also heard that about RVR's. I've had a look at as many as I can find, and all the DOHC ones have the same setup as a VR4 or EVO1-3, CAS on the back of the head.

There are internet rumours of RVR's with seperate Crank and Cam sensors, which would be awesome, but I think anything that had separate sensors will be 7 bolt.

I was at Pick-A-Part the other day and had a good gander around a mid 2000's Chariot with a GDI 4g64. They run a crank trigger system using a hall effect sensor, and a separate cam sensor on the back of the head. I've got to head there again on Sunday, so might rip into one and see if there might be a way to make it work... Triggering directly off the crank would be cool, as it makes for a more accurate system with no belt-flex issues.

Still leaves the problem of a Cam Sync signal though...
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