ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:21 pm

Holy crap, fitting an intercooler to this thing was like the job that wouldn't end... But finally, all the welding is done, all the mounts are made, the pipes are cleaned and beaded, and have had tabs welded on to avoid them knocking on the body. Job jobbed.

They're hilariously long. Should have some pretty funny reversion going on before i get around to fitting a dump valve.

Must gather some money to have the TC06 compressor cover machined for the 16g wheel, and purchase a pre-ported 7cm^2 exhaust housing, and a rebuild kit. That will sort the turbo side of things. Then just an exhaust and it should be drivable again :).

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:34 pm

I was thinking the other day about what was stopping me just going with an MPI setup right now... and I couldnt come up with a good enough reason, so...

From my rather shakey memory, the SOHC Galants, out of which this manifold would have come, have a 4-2 pattern optical distributor. If I can find one of these, I can use pretty much any VR4/EVO1-3/EVO4-9 computer to run this setup, with the factory sequential injection and wasted spark system. If I can't find one of those distributors easily enough, I'll cut up and old SOHC distributor, do some machining, and attach a DOHC CAS to the end, which will give exactly the same result, but with a little more work... Might be cheaper though, coz I've already got all the bits :).

Ive sized up fitting a 60mm throttlebody from an NA galant, will have a couple of inches of pipe, with a little bend, coming out of the manifold. I had the flange I cut off the other end of the SOHC manifold machined out to 60mm, so that'll get welded on, should be all good. The bolt pattern PCD is luckily the same :). I want to use a factory mitsy throttlebody, as it has all the stepper-motor idle control stuff built in, which a factory computer can use to give a sweet idle.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:59 am

Spent a good chunk of last evening figuring out how to wire in this chipped EVO IV ECU I've got, it's all looking pretty good so far. Next major hurdle will be figuring out where all the maps are stored in the EPROM chip thats been added to this ECU... No one has really bothered doing EVO IV's from what I can figure out, as it's way easier to swap to an EVO V ecu, which is re-flashable via the OBDII port. I want to use this one though, for a couple of reasons... 1) It was payment for a computer job i did a while back, so essentially free, 2) Kind of cool to run an weird frankenstein engine on a frankenstein ecu, 3) real time tunable with an EPROM emulator.

I've also got a set of .5mm over pistons at work, shitty un-known chinese spec. I need to CC them, and my head, and figure out if it would give a compression ratio anywhere near 8.5:1, which would be cool. They're slightly dished, but much less so than the 7.6:1 pistons in there at the moment. Fuck I miss driving this thing, less exams, more cars.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 12:28 pm

Spent this morning pulling an engine loom from a mitsy at pick-a-part. Has the right plugs for the evo iv ecu, and new wiring isn't cheap, so I'll dismantle it and use it to make the loom for my MPI setup. Only left me with an hour to much abount in the garage with the manifold, got things measured, cut and tacked up though.

Intercooler piping will look way nicer now, and be quite a bit shorter too. Its a shame the mitsy throttlebodies are so damn ugly... but I'll see what it's like after a good clean-up. I do like having all the idle control stuff in one easy to access place :).

perrinsohc · Post by **perrinsohc** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:51 pm

This is freaking awesome bro keep it up

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Sun Oct 21, 2012 3:42 pm

Had a good few hours in the garage this afternoon. Managed to get the cold side intercooler piping re-made to suit the new throttle location. Welded the bits needed on the manifold too. I learned from this to plan my welds better, as doing the last bit of the pipe to the throttle flange was really bloody awkward. Also, welding thick aluminium is awesome, you can just hammer the pedal and go really fast :).

All sorted for rear-skidder action.

Intercooler piping modded and welded. I need to get a 2.5" - 2.75" silicone joiner, and that'll be that job done. I scored a massive BOV from DJZ that's been sitting around for ages, it's quite hilarious. Made up a flange for it, and sat it approximately where it will go. Need to get some ~1.5" alloy pipe to make up the fitting for it and weld it on.

On the electrical side of things, I disassambled a late model mirage loom, and an older galant loom lastnight. Between them they have almost all the plugs and wire I need. I also won an auction for an evo II ECU on trademe, which will be fun to play with, and may get used instead of the evo iv one if finding the maps turns out to be too much trouble on the evo IV. People have already done it for the EVO 1-3's :). My other concern is that EVO IV's run an internally amplified coil-on-plug setup, which sometimes don't have as much dwell as an external coil setup... So running this 8v motor, with an external ignitor and coils, with the EVO IV ecu might result in a weak spark.. You can probably set the dwell somewhere in the ECU though... but it's another parameter to find in the HEX file...

Fun fun :).

Anyone want to buy the power cable i made up when i first got this thing? They're pretty beefy.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:22 pm

Well shitballs... Hit a little bit of a brick wall this evening. I got hold of an optical dizzy (Cheers Mike), but it doesn't use the same pattern as the DOHC CAS's. Swapping in the trigger wheel from a DOHC CAS doesnt work either, as the distributor spins clockwise (relative to the sensor), and the CAS spins anti-clockwise (again, relative to the sensor).

I tried flipping the disc over, but this also doesn't work, as the location of the two optical sensors within the dizzy aren't in line, and would also have to be reversed, which isn't really possible. They're not even the same between the CAS sensor and the distributor sensor, which they would ideally need to be.

Even chopping up a dizzy and welding a whole DOHC CAS to the end of it wont solve the problem... Hmmmm Not too sure what to do here.

Should have gone twin-cam, hah :).

I wonder if I might be able to sort out some sort of triggering system directly off the crank and cam, like the later model motors, that copies the mitsy pattern:

Hmmmmm, twin cam eh.... Or I could always throw an aftermarket ECU at it, but that's the easy way out!

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:28 pm

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=224740

not sure if it will help

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:39 pm

it might help actually - read the bit under "how it works" - they talk about flipping the disc within the cas because the distributor rotates in the opposite direction - could be just what you need?

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:42 pm

Interestingly, the original trigger wheel from the distributor provides what look like the correct cyl 1 cam reference pulse, but just doesnt have the second cam pulse. With some careful measuring, and using a DOHC cas to get the angle and width the secon pulse needs to be, I reckon I could cad something up and have a trigger wheel laser cut... Wonder how much that would cost?

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:03 pm

or you could probably flip over the disc within the cas, and then weld it onto the dizzy?

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:18 pm

Nah, because I'd need to reverse the location on the sensors in relation to one another also, and they're in one fixed unit :(. I did try it, and scoped the output just to be sure, but tis a no-go.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:20 pm

Although my brain is a little fried at this time of night... I might be looking at it wrong... Off to read that thread, hoping for the best! :)

Xentro · Post by **Xentro** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 1:50 am

How about bolting the cas to the back of the head like a DOHC?

You'd have to slot the cam and maybe weld some bracket to bolt it on..

the single cam spins the same direction as the dual cam.. and at the same speed.

I've seen this done to the 2.6 in the US so should work with the sohc.

then again... you could just try to make a new disc...
Should be doable with just a drill and some locksmiths files provided you first mark out all the hole exactly.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:44 am

Xentro - I hadent considered it on the 2l... very interesting, will have a look at that today, see if it might be easyish to do, cheers!

Austarion

ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!

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