ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!

Lunacy · Post by **Lunacy** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:09 pm

ProZac wrote:Make sure you number the ends, and mark all the orientations :).

Will do. Wont have it ready til next leave anyway so bit of time to make sure it perfect!

popup · Post by **popup** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 11:17 pm

Thats looking really good, the intercooler piping looks great! Is the battery going in the boot?

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:44 am

Yeah, definitely the boot for the battery, and I'm going to relocate the windscreen and headlight washer bottles and pumps to under the guards.

Wish my new turbo would show up, hah :)

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:09 am

Nice welds Zac!
Have you ported the exhaust manifold to suit the turbo yet?
This this will flow like crazy and you'll hit boost cut real quick of it runs 10 pounds.
Difference between yours and mine that I can see is this:-
I'm using an EVO3 big 16g which was matched largely to a ported stock exhaust manifold, and you have the EVO2 which has the smaller exhaust housing.
I've got the L300 2.4 head and yours is probably standard 2L.
My airbox is opened up to take 3 times the area of air thru the 4" pipe.
My cooler is about the same size but the piping is only 2" instead of the 2.5".

Looking forward to fitting MPI!

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:12 am

EVO1's, 2's and 3's all run the same exhaust housing according to my research, just the evo 1 ones are cast iron, not steel like the 2'3 and 3's. They're all TD05 7cm^2 housings. All the turbines are the same. The EVO3 does have a bigger version of the 16g compressor wheel though, even bigger then the 'big' 16g the evo 1's and 2's came with. From the compressor maps, the idea compressor side would be either a small 16g, or a 14b.... But this evo 2 turbo was cheap, hah :).

Will definately be porting the exhaust manifold to match. I also ordered an aftermarket wastegate actuator, and i'll modify this area to to try and get the boost under control. td05's are particularly bad for boost creep, but as It's just a sohc motor, it wont be flowing as much, so should hopefully be okay with the internal wastegate. If i just can't get it under control, I'll bore a hole in the underside of the factory manifold and fit an external wastegate.

I'm thinking of buying an aftermarket compressor housing for the td05 too. The change in A/R ratio on this side is much less important, and the factory mitsy housings really look like ass. Kinugawa make a bunch of different compressor housings that would work with the 16g wheel. These aftermarket ones have a much nicer mounting method for the wastegate actuator, and would look pretty boss/pull all the ladies.

I've got most of the material here to build a divorced downpipe for it, and a 3" exhaust the full way through... Just need the turbo to arrive so I can get started :)

Boost cut will be taken care of with a diode. I'm also part way through coding up a frequency multiplier/divider on an Arduino. It'll work just like an apexi SAFC. This will let me run the Galant AFM, and by modifying the frequency sent to the ecu depending on a couple of other factors (TPS, MAP and RPM), allow a really basic level of tune-ability. The Arduino is also serving as an electronic boost controller, and an o2 level gauge... All the data is displayed through a modified Velnas display unit. Should be pretty trick when I get it all done :).

This is all just a stop-gap for a year or so till I put a twin-cam motor in it, but I'm having sooooooo much fun modifying the single cam bits and pieces. Will be really really interesting to see how much I can get out of a TBI setup.

Also, I was thinking about injectors. The factory startion ones are around 600cc/min right? That's a fair amount of fueling, but I reckon it'd be possible to fit something bigger by hacking the plugs off and soldering wires directly to them... I'll pull the throttlebody apart at some stage and measure them up, see if there might be room in there for something bigger. Big injectors are pretty cheap out of the states these days.

Post by **TOMSUN** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:24 pm

Love ya work... One of my favorite threads. Keep it up :beer

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 3:23 pm

Well my new turbo arrived, is definately an evo2 unit from the part number on the compressor cover, and has the big 16g wheel... But it's got a different exhaust housing on it. Has a vr4 6cm^2 housing on it (also going off the part number). Which due to the casting isn't usable, as you can't get to the back of on of the bolt holes to put a nut on it after drilling it out for the studs on the starion exhaust manifold.

Will try to find an EVO3 exhaust housing, or buy a pre-ported one, with a bigger wastegate flapper from Kinugawa. $150odd though, a little pricey... But i'll be keeping the turbo when I twin-cam, so not too worried about spending a little coin on it.

Got the turbo all pulled apart though, blades look really good. Bearings are a bit worn, but the shaft is minty. Will order a rebuild kit and get it back together. I can use the VR4 exhaust housing for dummying stuff up in the mean time :).

dirtygalant · Post by **dirtygalant** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:38 pm

Evo3 compressor wheel has the same inducer/exducer dimensions and is still a big 16G - it just has a different design to the blades and is a bit thinner with more curved blades. The Evo3 turbo had a better flowing 7cm housing than the Evo1/2 turbo. You can definitely tell them apart.

On my VR-4, I'm running a 20G compressor with Kinugawa compressor housing and 8deg back cut standard turbine with Evo3 exhaust manifold, standard VR-4 evo 7cm exhaust housing and high flow down-pipe with rest of the exhaust standard (cat gutted though) and found it to be a huge improvement over the factory big 16G. Barely any extra lag and a much bigger punch in the mid-range and top end.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:05 am

Sounds like very similar mods to what I'm doing Phil, nice to hear of good results. I won't go for a 20g though, as I think I'll have surge problems on a SOHC. Maybe down the line it might be the go.

JAS · Post by **JAS** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:47 am

Fantastic work Zac!! :beer

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:04 pm

ProZac wrote:Sounds like very similar mods to what I'm doing Phil, nice to hear of good results. I won't go for a 20g though, as I think I'll have surge problems on a SOHC. Maybe down the line it might be the go.

TD06sl 20g doesn't have surge problems on a sohc ;)

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:13 pm

RZ - With a completely stock head and valvetrain? I dunno man, have a look at the maps, do some calcs, its pretty damn close to the surge line. Head and valve work to up the VE of the motor would help this alot, but Im not going to go to the bother for these quick dirty mods :).

JAS - Chur bro. We need to catch up sometime :).

Sized up the hot side pipe today, all tacked together, just needs final welding, but I'll wait till I'm slightly less caffinated, heh.

I also purchased an intercooled model compressor cover a couple of weeks ago, I was just going to slap it on the 12a turbo and boost the shit out of it... But it turned out to be a tc06 compressor cover, d'oh! I've priced up having it machined to take the td05h 16g wheel, and the cheapest price was $160. Not a bad price, but still more than a complete aftermarket housing. Plus, going to an aftermarket housing means a simpler intake pipe as i can get one with a 3" inlet OD.

I removed the PS pump tonight too. It did it's job fine, but was a bit scungy. I'm going to replace it with the one from the Galant, and low mount it where the alternator usually is. This makes the turbo inlet muuuuuuuuch easier to deal with. Running the Galant AFM also helps with this a bunch, as it's less clunky than the Starion unit.

Haven't thought about a catch-can yet... Might have something sorted for the PS reservoir... Need more time, hah.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:15 pm

Just sorted a majour part of DOHC conversion later down the track. Swapped some work for a J-Speed chipped EVO IV ecu. EVO IV's are the only ECU's you can chip to be real time programmable and have OBDII diagnostics. The later ones can be flashed through the OBDII port, but not in real time, and the earlier ones are chippable, but dont have the good diagnostics. These chipping kits seem like a bloody headache to install... Glad i don't have to do it, loooots of tricky soldering. This one looks like its come from Japan originally.

Still, will run my DOHC setup just fine, while allowing for factory cold start, a/c idle up, and heaps of other goodies :).

Will have to get an EVO 3 head, and do some port matching to an EVO 4 or above manifold. That'll make all the idle stuff just way too easy.

Still, that's ages away... Back to the current mods :).

I also scored a 1.75" - 2.5" silicone reducer, the last piece in the puzzle that is the intercooler piping. Sweet.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:37 pm

score with the ecu! factory idle is hard to beat for a street car eh

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:33 pm

Another day in the garage today. I went hard at uni this week and finished my solar car assignment super early, so I don't feel guilty for not going in today :).

If you look at earlier posts, you'll see I've mounted the intercooler to the bumper. Its fairly solid when the pipes are on, but it means you have to un-do all the piping to take the bumper off... Not ideal. I decided to make up some decent beefy mounts, and weld them straight to the end-tanks. The towing eye bolt holes were in a convenient location for mounting.... Made up a cardboard template to get an idea of how it'll go together:

Found some decent beefy alloy knocking around. I actually had to slice this bit from a right angle piece. Its about 5mm thick. Definately strong enough, that's for sure. After some measuring and marking, I popped it in my custom metal former, and beat the shit out of it with a rubber hammer.

More marking, measuring, beating with a hammer, then some cutting, and I ended up with this:

Rinse, wash, repeat:

After a bunch of test-fitting, I marked and tacked them onto the intercooler. I'm not to confident with welding thick alloy yet, so will ask a few questions from the experts before finish welding it. Seems super solid as it is though.

And fitted:

Bumper still clears, and looks better than before, as I dropped the intercooler about an inch, so it fills the entire front opening. Better not smash it on anything!

Since I had the tig all set up, I finished welding my hot-side pipe, and then proceeded to do this:

Looks a bit weird, but pulling a solvent soaked rag back and forth through the pipes should ensure no nasties hiding in there ready to be eaten by my motor/turbo. Rag has to be a nice tight fit, should be pretty hard to pull through. Once it came through either end clean a few times I called it job done. If you're doing this, make sure you tie the wire super securely to the rag, and tie a piece to either end, that way if you break the wire, you can pull the rag out by the other end, and you dont have to re-feed the wire each time you pull the rag through.

Anyone want a couple of intercooler mounts that screw in with the bumper skin clamping rail?

No? Didn't think so. New way is much better.

Good day today :)

Austarion

ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!

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