FS (WA) JD - Pics finally added !!!!! Sold !!!!!!!!
Staying in Perth
The chap is someone who already owns other starions in another part of OZ
I shall let him introduce himself..... he is aware and I believe active on this forum.
I should ask him what his name is on the forum!! as I do not know.
The chap is someone who already owns other starions in another part of OZ
I shall let him introduce himself..... he is aware and I believe active on this forum.
I should ask him what his name is on the forum!! as I do not know.
1985 JB - owned from new.
1986 JD - used to own one.......
1986 JD - used to own one.......
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- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
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Not Aaron is it? Lives in Kal and is moving back to the goldy.. if it is he's greedy as he already has a JD hahaha
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Hi Guys,
I picked up this JD, I have lurked on these forums on and off for a number of years.
I also have a couple of JB's which are currently in storage in Adelaide (I have recently moved to Perth).
After spending most of the weekend trying to sort out what is wrong with the JD, I'm fairly certain the TPS is stuffed. Anybody know where I could get a replacement?
I picked up this JD, I have lurked on these forums on and off for a number of years.
I also have a couple of JB's which are currently in storage in Adelaide (I have recently moved to Perth).
After spending most of the weekend trying to sort out what is wrong with the JD, I'm fairly certain the TPS is stuffed. Anybody know where I could get a replacement?
Did the TPS I gave you not work?
I think you can still buy them from Mitsubishi, but if anyone has one left on a manifold from a MPI conversion they should donate it to this worthy fellow!!
Welcome to the forum formally - have you registered the JBs Vins? :)
I think you can still buy them from Mitsubishi, but if anyone has one left on a manifold from a MPI conversion they should donate it to this worthy fellow!!
Welcome to the forum formally - have you registered the JBs Vins? :)
1985 JB - owned from new.
1986 JD - used to own one.......
1986 JD - used to own one.......
TWINS!
Welcome aboard/back!
Have you put a multimeter on the TPS? Gotten similar readings to what the manual says?
I had an issue many moons ago, I drilled a hole in the TPS body just big enough for the straw on the RP7 bottle and hosed it's innards. Seemed to work, no issue after I did it. Used a small hand drill and had the vacuum running where I was drilling to suck out the swarf.
Welcome aboard/back!
Have you put a multimeter on the TPS? Gotten similar readings to what the manual says?
I had an issue many moons ago, I drilled a hole in the TPS body just big enough for the straw on the RP7 bottle and hosed it's innards. Seemed to work, no issue after I did it. Used a small hand drill and had the vacuum running where I was drilling to suck out the swarf.
I did check the TPS with a multimeter, and got numbers similar to those in the manual. The problem was that I couldn't get consistent voltages at the throttle closed/open positions when I repeated the test. I ended up pulling the TPS out and checking the resistance at each position, again I couldn't get consistent values. I also saw the resistance changing without moving the positioner.
Noddy, I did try the other one you gave me. However the range (it is just a variable resistor) is different to the Starion one, and as such the voltages going to the ECU don't match those that would come from the Starion one.
I'll give the RP7 trick a shot and see how it goes.
Noddy, I did try the other one you gave me. However the range (it is just a variable resistor) is different to the Starion one, and as such the voltages going to the ECU don't match those that would come from the Starion one.
I'll give the RP7 trick a shot and see how it goes.
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- G33Kz0r
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- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
That sounds like a pretty classic case of a dirty swiper inside, I'd try giving Al's solution a go, drill a small hole, spray in plenty of brakeleen or contact cleaner and swipe it back and forth a bunch of times, then blow it out with compressed air. Worth a shot if its stuffed anyway.MintJB wrote:I did check the TPS with a multimeter, and got numbers similar to those in the manual. The problem was that I couldn't get consistent voltages at the throttle closed/open positions when I repeated the test. I ended up pulling the TPS out and checking the resistance at each position, again I couldn't get consistent values. I also saw the resistance changing without moving the positioner.
The actual resistance values shouldnt really matter. The TPS forms a resistor divider, the variable position center tap of which is the signal to the computer. This means that the actual values of resistance either side of the center tap aren't important, just the ratio between them. Aslong as the resistance values are sufficiently high (and they should be if it's a mitsy sensor, my 83 service manual specifies 4-6 kOhm.), and the resistance changes linearly with angle (like the original) you'll be fine.MintJB wrote:Noddy, I did try the other one you gave me. However the range (it is just a variable resistor) is different to the Starion one, and as such the voltages going to the ECU don't match those that would come from the Starion one.
I'll give the RP7 trick a shot and see how it goes.
Another way to test is to stick a pin into the middle wire coming out of the TPS, and measure the voltage on it with the ignition in the 'on' position, with respect to ground. Should vary between close to 0V with the throttle closed, and close to 5V with the throttle open. It should also increase smoothly from 0-5V with the throttle is opened slowly, sudden dips and dives in the output will cause the car to run funny, and are being caused by the problem that is hopefully fixable by Al's method.
Wow, that's a lot of words... Hopefully of some help.
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- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
Oh, and also, being a JD, I'm pretty dam certain your computer will have the diagnostic output! It's on one of the ECU pins, by hooking up and LED it'll flash in certain ways to indicate error codes to you! I remember hooking it up on a later model Jap spec i used to have and it told me the TPS was stuffed. Sure enough, it was, replaced it and a bunch of problems I was having went away :).
I cent remember which pin on the ECU it was, but a bit of googling and you'll be able to find out the procedure. Plenty of info on the starquestclub.com site, and most of it should be applicable to a JD as they had the later (but not latest) model style plugs and electronics.
I cent remember which pin on the ECU it was, but a bit of googling and you'll be able to find out the procedure. Plenty of info on the starquestclub.com site, and most of it should be applicable to a JD as they had the later (but not latest) model style plugs and electronics.
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