ProZac's 1982 Starion - Now with added 86!
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ProZac
- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
Rust repair. God I hate it, and I'm not very good at it, but I'm also very poor so wont pay to have it done. Plus, the only way to get better is to practice.
My passenger side guard was always a bit stuffed, full of filler and just generally manky. I managed to score one off KiwiEuroSpec (Cheers heaps!), which was very straight, but rusted out at the bottom. I also managed to score one off FST4RD (Cheers heaps!), but it too was full of filler up the front... However it had a good bottom edge. Unfortunately, the good bottom edge section wasn't quite big enough, so I had to weld all 3 guards together, my original one, and the two others.... I stuffed up the first cut and had a gap a couple of mm too wide, so I put a piece in behind to keep to curve right, and welded to that. Second repair went quite a bit better. It's not perfect, but won't require more than a mm of filler anywhere, which makes it okay in my book :).
Notice how no one posts pre-ground welded guard shots? I'll leave it to your imagination, but it ground down okay, and has plenty of penetration.
At this stage I decided I really wanted to know what was up with both my front guards, I needed to paint them both anyway, and I don't want anymore surprises / paint reactions. Bare metal time it is then. I used paint stripper for 90% of the job, and a fibre stripping disc for the rest.
Stripping them with paint stripper took a while, but most of it was just waiting for the stripper to work, so I could be doing other things.
The glad-wrap over the top prevents the stripper from drying out and gives it muuuuuuuch longer to work, pretty much as long as you want really.
30 mins later, and it has wrinkled up nicely.
Then take to it with a scraper. Scrape it all off, glad-wrap included.
Notice how that guard has had a wee dent repair before. It must have been a professional job though, as it's very well done.
After doing both guards like this, I hit them with the fibredisc on the angle grinder. Kept pressure super low to avoid heat build-up, and this also makes the fibre disc last way longer.
Bare metal staz would look pretty awesome :)
Tonight I had a wee play with intercooler piping, got a bit of it cut up and semi-fitted.
Its just one of those universal 2.5" piping kits. I want to only have 6 silicone joiners in the whole setup though, so it'll all be welded. I hate polished piping too, so I'll go over it all with scotchbright to give it a nice brushed look :). This will be a good test of my alloy pipe welding skills, but it's all around 1/5mm thick, so shouldn't be too bad.
This is a better pic of how I've mounted the intercooler. 550x230 really is about the perfect size for the front of a Starion I reckon.
The pipes will make a 90 degree turn back towards the car from either end of the cooler, through the holes where the washer bottles used to be, and into the engine bay. The bottom mounts for the intercooler are the pipes themselves, as they're also bolted to the car. Removing the bumper will be a little tricky, as the intercooler and two lower sections of pipe will now go with it. I really want to make a nice job of these bits, as the intercooler and lower piping sections will be staying with the car even when I swap to the twin-cam motor.
KiwiEuroSpec has been a freaking DUDE with his parts car. I've pinched a bunch of stuff from it. Including this GSR-X auto a/c setup. Once I've dissected the wiring harness, I reckon I can get it all to work without to many issues (cross fingers!). I've tested all the vacuum switches and actuators, they all work and don't leak, so that's awesome. A quick repair to one of the switches, and all the electrical side of things is working like it should too... Will certainly be interesting. Made sure to grab the wee temp probe in the hood lining, and the dash has some sort of temperature/light thingee too.
I also pinched the dash. I want a black dash, they're always too expensive, IF you can find one... So I'm going to have a go at painting this one. If that doesn;t work out, I'm going to have a go at covering it. If that doesnt work out, I'm going to cry/beat head against wall.
Time for uni work? Nah, more Starion work.
My passenger side guard was always a bit stuffed, full of filler and just generally manky. I managed to score one off KiwiEuroSpec (Cheers heaps!), which was very straight, but rusted out at the bottom. I also managed to score one off FST4RD (Cheers heaps!), but it too was full of filler up the front... However it had a good bottom edge. Unfortunately, the good bottom edge section wasn't quite big enough, so I had to weld all 3 guards together, my original one, and the two others.... I stuffed up the first cut and had a gap a couple of mm too wide, so I put a piece in behind to keep to curve right, and welded to that. Second repair went quite a bit better. It's not perfect, but won't require more than a mm of filler anywhere, which makes it okay in my book :).
Notice how no one posts pre-ground welded guard shots? I'll leave it to your imagination, but it ground down okay, and has plenty of penetration.
At this stage I decided I really wanted to know what was up with both my front guards, I needed to paint them both anyway, and I don't want anymore surprises / paint reactions. Bare metal time it is then. I used paint stripper for 90% of the job, and a fibre stripping disc for the rest.
Stripping them with paint stripper took a while, but most of it was just waiting for the stripper to work, so I could be doing other things.
The glad-wrap over the top prevents the stripper from drying out and gives it muuuuuuuch longer to work, pretty much as long as you want really.
30 mins later, and it has wrinkled up nicely.
Then take to it with a scraper. Scrape it all off, glad-wrap included.
Notice how that guard has had a wee dent repair before. It must have been a professional job though, as it's very well done.
After doing both guards like this, I hit them with the fibredisc on the angle grinder. Kept pressure super low to avoid heat build-up, and this also makes the fibre disc last way longer.
Bare metal staz would look pretty awesome :)
Tonight I had a wee play with intercooler piping, got a bit of it cut up and semi-fitted.
Its just one of those universal 2.5" piping kits. I want to only have 6 silicone joiners in the whole setup though, so it'll all be welded. I hate polished piping too, so I'll go over it all with scotchbright to give it a nice brushed look :). This will be a good test of my alloy pipe welding skills, but it's all around 1/5mm thick, so shouldn't be too bad.
This is a better pic of how I've mounted the intercooler. 550x230 really is about the perfect size for the front of a Starion I reckon.
The pipes will make a 90 degree turn back towards the car from either end of the cooler, through the holes where the washer bottles used to be, and into the engine bay. The bottom mounts for the intercooler are the pipes themselves, as they're also bolted to the car. Removing the bumper will be a little tricky, as the intercooler and two lower sections of pipe will now go with it. I really want to make a nice job of these bits, as the intercooler and lower piping sections will be staying with the car even when I swap to the twin-cam motor.
KiwiEuroSpec has been a freaking DUDE with his parts car. I've pinched a bunch of stuff from it. Including this GSR-X auto a/c setup. Once I've dissected the wiring harness, I reckon I can get it all to work without to many issues (cross fingers!). I've tested all the vacuum switches and actuators, they all work and don't leak, so that's awesome. A quick repair to one of the switches, and all the electrical side of things is working like it should too... Will certainly be interesting. Made sure to grab the wee temp probe in the hood lining, and the dash has some sort of temperature/light thingee too.
I also pinched the dash. I want a black dash, they're always too expensive, IF you can find one... So I'm going to have a go at painting this one. If that doesn;t work out, I'm going to have a go at covering it. If that doesnt work out, I'm going to cry/beat head against wall.
Time for uni work? Nah, more Starion work.
Last edited by ProZac on Fri Aug 31, 2012 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
kiwieurospec
- Enthusiast
- Posts: 605
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 2:21 pm
- Location: Christchurch,New Zealand
Lols wanna see you get that climate air working, it will be a fine job.
Also glad to see the car's pieces going to good use, its gone now but pieces of it are in Aussie and America and around NZ, it did well.
(Might get another to replace it haha)
Also glad to see the car's pieces going to good use, its gone now but pieces of it are in Aussie and America and around NZ, it did well.
(Might get another to replace it haha)
1985 Widebody Factory Four Wheel Steering
1986 Euro Spec-ABS,LSD etc
1986 Euro Spec-ABS,LSD etc
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ProZac
- G33Kz0r
- Posts: 2674
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- Contact:
Finished up the welding on my cold-side pipe this afternoon, came out okay... Workable for my first real attempt at welding alloy.
It's damn long though... Hope it doesn't introduce too much lag.The reversion should sound pretty awesome before i get around to fitting dump vale though, hah.
How it fits in:
This was pretty good alloy welding practice. I'm pretty confident tigging steel, but alloy is new to me. Seems more like soldering than welding somehow. It starting going a lot better when I stopped being a pussy and just hammered the pedal to really get some heat flowing. Managed to not blow any holes. I'll take the pipe to a local workshop I'm friendly with and bead-roll the ends, then pressure test it.
Need more practice, but this will do for now :). Hell, its better than the shitty welding on my chinese radiator, hah!
In other news, I've got an EVO 2 turbo on the way to me. This has the 7cm^2 exhaust housing, and the Big 16G wheel. Will give it a good clean up, new bearings and seals, fit a nicer looking aftermarket compressor cover and that should be the turbo I'll keep on it for ages, even when I go to the twin-cam. Might put a 20G wheel in it then though, to keep up with the increased gas flow. I did all the calculations, looked at compressor maps, and the big 16g will be slightly out of its efficiency range for this motor... a 14b would really be better... But it was cheap :)
Cheers all.
It's damn long though... Hope it doesn't introduce too much lag.The reversion should sound pretty awesome before i get around to fitting dump vale though, hah.
How it fits in:
This was pretty good alloy welding practice. I'm pretty confident tigging steel, but alloy is new to me. Seems more like soldering than welding somehow. It starting going a lot better when I stopped being a pussy and just hammered the pedal to really get some heat flowing. Managed to not blow any holes. I'll take the pipe to a local workshop I'm friendly with and bead-roll the ends, then pressure test it.
Need more practice, but this will do for now :). Hell, its better than the shitty welding on my chinese radiator, hah!
In other news, I've got an EVO 2 turbo on the way to me. This has the 7cm^2 exhaust housing, and the Big 16G wheel. Will give it a good clean up, new bearings and seals, fit a nicer looking aftermarket compressor cover and that should be the turbo I'll keep on it for ages, even when I go to the twin-cam. Might put a 20G wheel in it then though, to keep up with the increased gas flow. I did all the calculations, looked at compressor maps, and the big 16g will be slightly out of its efficiency range for this motor... a 14b would really be better... But it was cheap :)
Cheers all.
Quite possibly joining the ship in Lyttelton on Tuesday. Will be in lytt sometime within next 4 weeks for sure though, so will take them all with me since i get extra luggage on the plane now :)ProZac wrote:Stereos = win! :). I've had to curb my drinking due to Uni at the moment, hah. When will you next be down?
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