Dyno question and fuel question!

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:06 pm

forgive me if you've already answered this, but what computer are you running? can it actually run in closed loop? Does the computer manual mention a specific type or model of sensor?

fugazi · Post by **fugazi** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:16 pm

Haltec LT10...(?)

starionc · Post by **starionc** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:10 pm

The computer is a Haltec LT10s and the sensor is a 5 wire Haltec one that will allow the computer to run closed loop..
It is $385 inc GST Comes with a control box and more wiring! YAY just what I need rofl

Aaron stumbled across my car today!!!!! He sent me a photo of it :o
He tells me that the exhaust looks to be tucked up nice and close to the floor. I have not seen it yet, I'll head down tomorrow and have a look see and get some pics.
Also need to put some road tyres on it for the dyno on Monday :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:15 pm

ProZac wrote:Wideband sensors and controllers arent anywhere near that expensive anymore... a little over $200 will get you a decent innovate one.

plus fitting and markup

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:15 pm

you better check what ecu you actually have...it's probably a Haltech, but not a LT10S (which is a Microtech).

who is tuning it?

Post by **Alspos** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:38 pm

thrash wrote:
Alspos wrote: Could you put the AFM in after the turbo, cooler and BOV? That would negate any effect a bov, pressure losses etc would have on the system wouldn't it?

Al, I would theorize that the afm would not work after the turbo without extensive recalibration - most AFMs these days are hot wire (even though apparently the karman vortex ones used in old mitsus such as the starion is meant to be a better design..?), and so there are temperature variation measurements involved, and as you know the air temp after a turbo can vary a fair bit based on a multitude of factors.

Sorry to drag this back up and I'm not trying to flame you, but....

If you have the AFM in the normal place it would see temperature fluctuations anyway wouldn't it, so how would it being after the turbo and cooler be any different (apart from the extremes it may see). Does or can an AFM read the temp as well as flow? Something in the system would have to measure temp and flow to correctly adjust fuel mixtures to suit.

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:46 pm

I would have thought that the inlet air temps would be best measured at the inlet manifold/plenum.???

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:59 pm

ProZac wrote:Wideband sensors and controllers arent anywhere near that expensive anymore... a little over $200 will get you a decent innovate one.

you mean like this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innovate-Mot ... 2a144927dd

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:07 pm

redzone wrote:
ProZac wrote:Wideband sensors and controllers arent anywhere near that expensive anymore... a little over $200 will get you a decent innovate one.
plus fitting and markup

Whoops, I forgot about fitting, probably a good couple of hours of labour in that job. But that $225ish is a retail price. Even cheaper for you guys with how good your dollar is these days.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:10 pm

GormzZ wrote:
ProZac wrote:Wideband sensors and controllers arent anywhere near that expensive anymore... a little over $200 will get you a decent innovate one.
you mean like this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innovate-Mot ... 2a144927dd

Bingo, yup. The MTX-L is a controller and gauge in one unit. The gauge also has two user configurable outputs, so should be able to interface with any decent standalone ECU. I prefer the older separate LC1 controllers though. Same tech pretty much, but you can hook them up to any aftermarket o2 gauge, or not have a gauge at all and just use them for generating a signal to the ECU.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:21 pm

Al, flame me as much as you want :beer I was only putting out a blind theory, with no evidence whatsoever, and I'm the first to admit I could be completely wrong.

There are always temperature variations before the turbo, yes, but what I was saying was that I would think that the maf would see a much wider range of temps post-turbo - i.e. unless you're constantly travelling up and down a mountain, pre-turbo ambient temps would vary maybe 2 or 3 degrees C max, such as 21 - 23 degrees on a spring day. Post turbo, no matter what the ambient is, you may be seeing 30 to 60 degrees, so a 30 degree variation. Although, now that I think about it, if your intercooler was anything but undersized, post-intercooler temps should not vary so much.

I have never seen a car with the maf after the turbo from factory, hence I was thinking that there must have been a reason for not placing the maf after the turbo - but apparently some supercharged mercs run them after the supercharger unit.

A bit of internet forum trolling seems to suggest that it is indeed possible to run maf after the turbo, and in fact this produces better idle (multiple people with a variety of cars on different forums claim to have moved the maf to after the turbo and achieved this), but possible richer running on boost. Also, a big drawback is the high chance of oil contamination of the maf, either by worn turbo seals, or even just by plumbed back blow-by.

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 11:57 pm

It would depend on the type of MAF... I'd think that a 'hot wire' maf (which I think all the nissan ones are?) might have a bit of trouble?

Mitsy ones work off the turbulence inside the maf itself, and this might or might not be mucked up under pressure.. not sure... I suspect they'd work, but would need calibrating.

The guys in the US are having success running a GM MAF after the turbo with those MAF converter thingee's... I've got no idea what tech those MAF's use though.

Our maf's have an air temp sensor built into them which the computer uses to adjust the fueling. Later model intercooled versions had a temp sensor just before the tbi unit too... I'm not sure if this replaced the one in the MAF, or both were used.

popup · Post by **popup** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 2:20 am

ProZac wrote:
GormzZ wrote:
ProZac wrote:Wideband sensors and controllers arent anywhere near that expensive anymore... a little over $200 will get you a decent innovate one.
you mean like this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innovate-Mot ... 2a144927dd
Bingo, yup. The MTX-L is a controller and gauge in one unit. The gauge also has two user configurable outputs, so should be able to interface with any decent standalone ECU. I prefer the older separate LC1 controllers though. Same tech pretty much, but you can hook them up to any aftermarket o2 gauge, or not have a gauge at all and just use them for generating a signal to the ECU.

I had an LC-1 from Innovate and had so many problems with it, think its cheap for a reason. The forum is full of people having the same issues, blinking lights, error codes, dead sensors. Forever having to calibrate in free air which means removing the sensor etc etc. The AEM ones seem to be better and also the Tech Edge.

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:43 pm

I like the Tech Edge or Zeitronix kits.

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:46 am

popup wrote:
ProZac wrote:
GormzZ wrote: you mean like this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innovate-Mot ... 2a144927dd
Bingo, yup. The MTX-L is a controller and gauge in one unit. The gauge also has two user configurable outputs, so should be able to interface with any decent standalone ECU. I prefer the older separate LC1 controllers though. Same tech pretty much, but you can hook them up to any aftermarket o2 gauge, or not have a gauge at all and just use them for generating a signal to the ECU.
I had an LC-1 from Innovate and had so many problems with it, think its cheap for a reason. The forum is full of people having the same issues, blinking lights, error codes, dead sensors. Forever having to calibrate in free air which means removing the sensor etc etc. The AEM ones seem to be better and also the Tech Edge.

AEM For Ya?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEM-Fail-Saf ... 2a1f8dfcad

Austarion

Dyno question and fuel question!

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