Dyno question and fuel question!

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1320ft
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Post by 1320ft »

Tune with what you are going to run the car on.

Since its a rally car, if it was me, I would be running the car on E85 or a Sunoco/VP/Elf/Martini race fuel.
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Post by OLD FART »

My suggestion is the low budget option and Aarons the serious big budget option.
From what I understand eE85 will need bigger pump & injectors as you will use app 1/3rd more fuel and that the quality can vary and that it is hydroscopic. I have zero experience with E85 so more than happy to be corrected if needed.
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1320ft
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Post by 1320ft »

OLD FART wrote:From what I understand eE85 will need bigger pump & injectors as you will use app 1/3rd more fuel and that the quality can vary and that it is hydroscopic. I have zero experience with E85 so more than happy to be corrected if needed.
Part 1, correct, you do need 1/3rd more fuel system

Part 2, Hydroscopic, correct, BUT, there are a few products on the market (Lucasoil Ethanol Fuel Stabiliser etc) that stop it from aborbing the water, going off, growing mould etc.

Part 3, Quality, Caltex E-Flex, Shithouse, reads allover the place. United (pump), very consistant, well priced, Powerplus, same, Martini, same, Cheater same, Sunoco, Racespec Unleaded with the Ethanol, Sucrogen (V8 SC Spec), very aggressive/designed to be flushed after every race.
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Post by starionc »

1320ft wrote:
OLD FART wrote:From what I understand eE85 will need bigger pump & injectors as you will use app 1/3rd more fuel and that the quality can vary and that it is hydroscopic. I have zero experience with E85 so more than happy to be corrected if needed.
Part 1, correct, you do need 1/3rd more fuel system

Part 2, Hydroscopic, correct, BUT, there are a few products on the market (Lucasoil Ethanol Fuel Stabiliser etc) that stop it from aborbing the water, going off, growing mould etc.

Part 3, Quality, Caltex E-Flex, Shithouse, reads allover the place. United (pump), very consistant, well priced, Powerplus, same, Martini, same, Cheater same, Sunoco, Racespec Unleaded with the Ethanol, Sucrogen (V8 SC Spec), very aggressive/designed to be flushed after every race.
:shock: :shock: I'll stick with 98RON then!!
Most of the time, after a rally the car will come home and sit for weeks at a time before I get the chance to do anything with/ to it! So needing to flush the fuel system is not a plus for me :roll:
Also a 1/3rd more fuel..... Yeah I'm going to need that...................
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Post by 1320ft »

starionc wrote: :shock: :shock: I'll stick with 98RON then!!
Most of the time, after a rally the car will come home and sit for weeks at a time before I get the chance to do anything with/ to it! So needing to flush the fuel system is not a plus for me :roll:
Also a 1/3rd more fuel..... Yeah I'm going to need that...................
I only have one thing to say:

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Post by OLD FART »

OLD FART wrote:If it was me I would tune for 98 but have a good octane booster with the car( or with the service crew ) in case only 95 was available then dose that with booster to bring it up to 98
Nulon Pro strength will bring 95 up to 98.1 I have used that in the past and currently use Lucas racing formula octane booster.
PS beware of a lot of OB's that claim to increase the octane rating by say 7 points what that really means 0.7 of 1 full point so 95.0 becomes 95.7 RON
UPDATE Lucas OZ/Qld say that the racing formula mixed as per bottle, 98 RON becomes 101.5 RON :D
Nulon pro strength added to 98 increases to 100.5 RON
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Post by starionc »

Isn't a Gallon 5 L?? Or is it 3.5 L?
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Post by starionc »

Ok, it's at the Exhaust shop. My guy says that 3 inch is too big.... NOT for the car!!! Calm down LOL

It will hang to low for the forest :( So it's 2 1/2 inch straight through. No muffler or cat or hotdog...... Nothing but pipe :D :D :D

My Exhaust guy is a rally guy, so he knows what the car will be put through!!!
It should sit up tight to the floor.

I got the 5 way O2 censor for the exhaust so that the computer will "self tune" after the dyno parameters are set up.

I'll get some pictures tomorrow if I get a chance. Then Ill get Rob to put them up for me rofl rofl rofl
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1320ft
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Post by 1320ft »

starionc wrote:So it's 2 1/2 inch straight through. No muffler or cat or hotdog...... Nothing but pipe :D :D :D
Now your talking my language!

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Post by starionc »

1320ft wrote:
starionc wrote:So it's 2 1/2 inch straight through. No muffler or cat or hotdog...... Nothing but pipe :D :D :D
Now your talking my language!

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:shock: :shock: :shock: If my car does that in the forest we're in trouble! Bush fires and that sort of thing :oops:
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

if your car is like that, i think you'll have a lot of trouble on the turns rofl
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by enthuzed »

starionc wrote: The dyno guy has recommended that I get a O2 sensor for the exhaust. It will save on dyno time and also help the car lean out or richer in high and low altitude. Thoughts?? It's $400 just for that? Is that about right?

Cheers Jason
Nobody seems to have answered this. The dyno guy knows what he is saying, grab yourself a universal single wire oxy sensor, the ones with more wires cost more and are either an earth wire plus heating wires which are only for OEM replacement and their emission purposes. So keep it simple.
If you go to Repco and use part# COS732 that should cost between $50 and $80 depending on how chummy you are.
Then get someone to weld a bung to your exhaust with a thread to suit the sensor.
Certainly nowhere near $400 including the welding though...
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Post by OLD FART »

thrash wrote:if your car is like that, i think you'll have a lot of trouble on the turns rofl
They only have 1 slow left turn to make
I've had mine since 03 07 92
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THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
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Post by redzone »

I think you will find the $400 is for a wide band sensor Frank not a regular narrow band type which usually do fk all on an after market ecu
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Post by ProZac »

Wideband sensors and controllers arent anywhere near that expensive anymore... a little over $200 will get you a decent innovate one.
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