12v dash info

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
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zippo
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12v dash info

Post by zippo »

hi all.
it's been ages since i have been here,but i know some of you have info on this matter.

can the dash head be run with t/c after market pistons (je cp etc) or you need the dash ones due to the valve set up for the reliefs?

can you run the standard cam and rocker gear from the starion be used or you need the dash stuff?

i know that the exh manifold will bolt up, and the inlet side is a no go with the starion or the l300 or even the sonata inlet but as a former cordia owner long long ago i know for a fact the cordia inlet can and this can have a plenumb grafted in rwd configuration.

the reason why i ask is that i really do not want to t/c and i am looking at all alternatives.
1- stay 8v and port polish etc

2-have another crack at the 4g64 (but this time take some care and do it right) found a solution to the gasket problem but that will mean o/ring the block because copper gasket is the only strong one avilable , and i am not 100 certain the 4g54 studs will work on this head.

3 - dash head if i can use starion rocker gear and get away with pistons.

and i know finding a dash head is rare as hens teeth but im in no rush. car is going nowhere fast.

2x cars that have produced some high power have done this with the dash head. the boys at buckley st autos and the rigoli cordia. not cyclone but the silver one built by v and e rigoli , cyclone was also a high powerd dash motor before it bacame a t/cam and all of them have worked wonders with the dash head. (and all of them have been very secretive with what was done and how it was done)

sorry for the long post.
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ssb2005
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Post by ssb2005 »

DASH should be fine with any of the usual VR-4 etc pistons. The heads on these flow as well as a well ported SOHC head before they have any work done to them.

Inlet manifolds are the issue, your stuck with the "electric carbie" unless you can get a manifold fabbed up.

Other people have had issues getting the 3rd valve solenoid issue to work with aftermarket computers.

Cam's i am not so sure about

good luck
OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

From memory there is a 16v SOHC that fits our early blocks.
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
ProZac
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Post by ProZac »

the 16v SOHC heads are from the later galants and what not, they fit the EVO4 and onwards blocks, you know, after they flipped the head. You can fit them to our blocks, but there are quite a few mods that need to be done.
FST4RD
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Post by FST4RD »

If i had the will I would go the dash head over the 8v head.
Used to have a factory dash motored starion and it was leaps and bounds better then the 8v starions i have driven.
You can get a link to work with the 12v, Jas knows about this.
Personally if I was to go dash again I would go for a mpi inlet manifold, custom computer and td05-16g.

This will probably make you sick... My current starion has a dash block, 8v head. It came with the dash head, inlet mani, afm etc but i gave it away to Jas cause I couldn't be bothered getting it going :oops:
Sold - 1987 Mitsubishi Starion GSR V DASH
Current - 1995 Subaru Legacy TT SW
- 1983 Mitsubishi Starion
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zippo
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Post by zippo »

thanks guy's

i thinks the 16v head you guy's are refering to is from an early galant 88/89 not common to Aus . it would have been fantastic if the magna one worked but everything is on the oppisite side.
or even the sonata one for thast matter, cheap and plenty around.

back to the dash head.
yeah the 3rd valve is fiddly to operate and im sure the moted is more than capable of doing it. problem is how? i spoke to motec and they said yeah can be done but why bother with old ancient stuff.

the more i look it all points to t/cam as the parts are around and the a/m supply of goodies is huge.

so in logic the 8v sohc is good but has limits. (mine has the sonata set up done)
the 4g64 option still can work if i do it right but has the gasket problem and the problem of low comp. (custom pistons $$$$$)
both above have the positives because my set up bolt ons will work. exh and inlet.

the dash - i have no clue and the chance of getting one slim.


oldie from memory you ported out a 8v head to exact specs of the 4g64 ports and added the 1mm o/s valves. so you made a 4g64 head, and i assume you ported the hell out of the exh manifold to match. why not use the 4g64 head? was this due to the comp ratio and the gasket problem?

correct me if im wrong this was on your stroker? then you had a mishap , sold the head and went t/cam , then that head went on another motor again a stroker that had a mishap and then he went t/cam. do you think that was because of the stroker??? reaon why i ask is my bottom end will be the 2.3. that i am sure off100% just dont know what the top end will be. im just worried as the 2.3 seems like it dosen't like the sohc head.


t/cam = moderns times and proven results. again not a simple task but im sure all who have done it wont go back.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

a guy in sydney had a van with a 16v sohc 2 litre motor - he turboed it and got about 160kw at the wheels. the 16v sohc heads are available here.. don't know if he stopped because he was happy with 160kw, or if that was the limit - his cousin is a performance tuner, so I would be pretty sure it's not due to lack of skill / know how
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

Zippo I had the worked head on both the 2.0 & 2.3 stroker and the only reason I had problems with the stroker was due totally to a bad tuner If I had remembered about my current tuner Lee my JB would without doubt still be a single cam!!!!

I had a 64 head that I had p&p by JJH and was fully intending to fit it BUT after searching all of the HG suppliers at the time could not find a MLS gasket that was big enough to clear the c/hamber (for those who don't know the 64 has a different shape )

Anchor who bought my rebuilt 8v head had probe with broken lands that damaged the head.Not the heads problem.

I sold the worked 64 head to a fellow member ,a mechanic named Coupier on this site.Don't know if it was ever installed.

Why not save more than a few $$$$$$$$$and stay single cam as they can & have made 300+HP ATW @ 20 PSI

PS another benefit is if you break a cam belt in an 8v you won't end up with a heap of bent valves.
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

yeah i wanted to stay single cam, but that was when i thought my car had about 60rwkw stock and that I would be happy with about 170rwkw..

then i found out my sluggish-feeling car had about 100rwkw.. and started rethinking whether 170rwkw would be enough to curb my thirst.. and also a good deal popped up on a twin cam :D
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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zippo
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Post by zippo »

thanks for all the help guy's.
yep i so do want to stay sohc just note sure what type. just looking for what is best.

i have the 4g64 crank. the problem with the gasket can be over come by oring and copper if i go 4g64 head,but hate the whole anealling thing. i spoke to specialised pistons services and they can make some stroker pistons to suit and can bring the comp ratio up for me , only problem is that they can only be used for that head, if i go back to the 63 head the comp will be super high so thats no good.

still stuck on what option i will take 63/64 (thinking 63 ported exh side with bigger valves,intake ports only polished and cleaned up)

i love the appeal of the old school look and stealth look and want to retain all that.

tubo side is sorted i have my trusty td05... its not your ebay spacial,it is the evo 3 7cm housing that has been ported,the flapper has also been changed to the 34mm one and that has been ported and the front wheel was changed to the 20g one. jpc sorted it all for me the amount of money i spent i could have got a garret or hks ohh well.
i am going to use the standard manifold , i want that stealth stock look. the turbo is going to be modded again, i am putting in the 25g wheel i wish i could machine the housing out but cant fit the wheel in.

the manifold will be ported to match the head, the flange has already been opened up for the td05

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-3 ... 3f17845532

thats the new wheel and cover going on so more money. lol this will be the most expensive td05 around, but im told it will spool very quickly and produce over 750cm at 1 bar. it should be a little monster and still look fairly stock sitting on the factory maifold,

inlet side has the sonata type, im looking at some plenum options atm,im going to some wrecking yards to look and suss some out. factory ones are what im looking for to graft on i find the appeal of the magna one put hate that it has 2600 on it. i may be able to extend the sonata one a little, the only give up will be the ford t/body. fuel rail has got to go, i dont think i can adapt my sard reg to it , injectors may need to be 800cc items, i dont think the 560 evo 8's will be enough. pump wise the walbro that i have will be fine,i dont think i will need a surge tank and another pump.

cam will stay,im happy with the wade power past 6800 and i will find the sweet spot with the adj cam gear,i doubt i will rev a stroker past 7k.

belive it or not i am keeping the balace shafts in. i was told by the builder they will be needed for the stroker.

i gnition side??? i dont know yet. currently stock apart from a msd blaster coil.
i am leaning towards the msd 6al or the sci version only because i can hide the box, again the stealth look , multi coil and no wires in the dizzy will give it away.

well thats the plan any way. i wish i had done this earlier because i would have had it done,but i got very sick for some time and just forgot about the car. its been i few years since i actually even lifted the car cover off the car. i lifted a few weeks ago and i felt so happy and guilty at the same time. at least it has given me some motivation again, hence the recent post's and the turbo purchase.

im looking forward to starting work on it again even if it's just pulling things off and getting ready. i fried the clutch years ago and the car has sat dormant ever since. looking forward to ripping that out just to see how bad it melted.that was one hell of burn out and thats what put the stazz into the coma.
the car is a while away from being finished because im planning a wedding and im going travelling across europe for at least 4 months so funds are limited for the car at the moment.

on a good note health is fantastic , a long holiday is coming soon and life is great....

so thats the plan, im sure the above mods will net some nice power im hoping to get at least 350hp on the rear even if i need to pump 25 psi into it.

sorry about the long long post but writting this helps me feel not so guilty about neglecting the car and also motivation to get back into it.
old skool jap ...........
there is no substitute...........
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zippo
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Post by zippo »

just to elaborate on the whole stock look.
yes i know that the starion did not come out with MPI before some one points that out,but most non starion people dont know that,and alot of people have no clue what a starion is. most people ask what car is that thing you have?and my mates know it only as the jacky chan car.

so having a stock looking plemum rather than a large polished high volume scuba tank will keep it more like a stock looking car.
old skool jap ...........
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enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

A 64 head with a Starion block becomes an interference motor because of the bigger valves.

Zippo, I'm with you re the stock look. Yes, you've got to go the MPI setup to get these things to go and that technically fouls with the stock look to a degree.

I take it a step further though, I'm still considering the most suitable plenum to graft to an L300 manifold and runners, but no XF T/B for me!

When someone asks I will be able to honestly say it's all factory parts. Mitsubishi factory parts. I won't mention that some bits were produced about 15 years after the car was built! The donor at this stage is likely to be a TK Magna 3.5L plenum after some decent massaging unless I can find something better. It comes with a 60mm TB. And no BS writing on the plenum.
Last edited by enthuzed on Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ProZac »

Im sure you can get rods and pistons out of the US for a 4g64 crank in a 4g63 block... Ends up being around 2.3l?
Would it matter using 16v pistons in an 8v motor? I'm sure I've seen it done before.
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zippo
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Post by zippo »

the 64 head has more to do with the cc chamber and the shapeshape not really the valves size.

im going to look into that magna plenum,youve got me curious, also sure the kr/ks verada and the pajero run a 60mm t/body and another model but i forget, i must venture down to pick a part and check some out.

yep you can get pistons to make it a 2.3 but still stuck with low comp due to the chamber size , so customs are the best option, i guess thats why all the us guy's run the 63 heads insread of the 64 heads , as there is no real a/m performance parts ie gaskets cams etc for the 64 t/cam
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ProZac
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Post by ProZac »

Ahhhhh, I see, yes, very good point, they're all running the twin cam head, so compression ratios are up.
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